Bike started acting retarded (sputtering and popping, loss of power, rough running) about 400miles after a pipe, header, airbox, FuelPak (FP4) upgrade. Added a Quad Lock wireless charger at that time as well.

I have done the following to chase this down. Plugs, wires, control switches on the handle bars and associate inside bar wiring, new twist sensor, replace ECM with Thundermax. Bike seems ti run fine until it gets to temp the starts the sputtering crap again.

Codes I pilled today after test ride are:
U0156
U0001
B2106
U0100
U0184
C1184
U0186

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'd pull the air box back apart and check for a missing screw. Why are you messing with bar wiring if the bars wrern't replaced? Does the Quadlock wiring run inside? If so, which side?.

Edit - Did you have the front fairing apart?

 

I was advised by a brother of mine who had a similar issue and it ended up being the switch pack on the left side due to a malfunction of the clutch handle switch tricking the computer into into thinking temperature management needed to be turned on. Harley replaced the ECM and plug wires via misdiagnosis. The fairing wan NOT taken apart to for what I did initially. Quad lock is run outside the bars and isn't even connected anymore.

 

Initially, after the first modifications, did you suspect it might be the FP4? Did you contact V&H?

Bike model and year?

 

Go back to the OEM ECM and see what happens.

 

Thought possibly. We swapped with a new ECM though and same issues.

 

2019 FLHTK and yes, but swapped ECM and same issue.

 

same issue

 

Most of your codes are can bus communication type errors.

you can look them all up here:
https://www.wilkinsharley.com/--Chec...rley-Davidsons

You might start by examining closely all the connectors and terminals at the ECM. Then the same for the BCM.

 

Down load ThunderMax info. directly to them through the program. I have done that 3x with very prompt response. My problem was, there was basicly no problem. Well there was a decel pop going on but that was due to original pipes. I wound up just using a 2.00 freeze plug up pipe where it met up with the slip-on. Oh yeah, the automobile freeze plug was drilled out to allow flow but not enough for back flow of cold air to cause that nerve grinding pop, pop, pop. They are The Pros with TM since they make that rig in Tn. and have always got back to me in 1-2 business days at most.
Good luck and let us know what you find.