My guess button is to underglow lights. Have you pushed it on? The big wire taped looked like they got cut and then spliced back?

I think I might have a indian hand air pump if you need it, pay the ride

 

Classic would read FLHRCi if it is a 1998 Road King classic.
Per latest post. "spokes, leather bags, but factory carbureted"
Guessing you have Road King classic hard leather bags with the weave pattern and spokes.
The original seat has the weave pattern too.
The factory tires were fat whitewalls but some later change to just black sidewalls.
The 1998 classic did NOT come with a carb from factory so if it has a carb somebody changed it to carb.
The fuel tank would have an access panel under speedometer console to access pump if it was fuel injected or later converted.
The EFI version had a crank sensor by OIL filter...not sure if carb had the crank sensor by OIL filter since crank sensor ran towards rear of bike and across motor to ECM on other side.
The EFI fuel tank has two hoses under tank as fuel injected but if converted to carb then a steel color Pingel block-off would be visible under fuel tank for one fuel port.
On a side note:
Everyone has there own aftermarket choice for electrical connectors or taps..I have found these to work well for me, easy to use, clean looking and can be re-utilized.
There are videos online of their use on motorcycles.
https://www.posi-products.com/

 

Also: Standard RK’s have a decal on the tank, fender tip lamps and a rear bumper. Classics have a tank badge with a matching solid chrome fender tip, no bumper. Different seats and paint colors too.

 

You can check the VIN and see what it left the factory as.

Vehicle Lookup | Harley-Davidson SIP

The owners manual also has pictures of the different models.

 

‘Evidently, somebody converted it.

 

Don’t have a factory manual yet.. embarrassed to ask these two questions.

Does the left side gas cap with guage come off? Is it fixed because it’s a guage? Mine the chrome spins leaving the guage fixed. Tried squeezing, lifting, pushing.. just spins. Now I know it’s fixed


How do you remove the cover over the tree’s risers? How do you remove the chrome arrow over the seam of the two sides of the head light? Had to remove the head light, not a big deal

Swing arm has no cracks anywhere.

 

If it still has the spokes...they are tube rims.

Borrowed from Vtwin forum:

" All models with a gauge like that work the same way. Wires from the gauge go down through the tank via a special "tube", and exit the bottom of the tank. The wires then go to a small connector near the tank. You might have to take out the mounting bolts and lift the tank slightly in order to see the connector (4 pin, but only 3 wires).

Disconnect the connector.

You will have to remove the pins from the connector, it's not easy to describe, although a good description is in the service manual. Once you've removed the pins from the connector, you can simply pull the gauge up, pulling the wires through the tube. NOTE: before you remove the pins, you should make a diagram showing which wire went in which hole. As I said, it's a 4-pin connector with only 3 wires, make sure your diagram indicates the empty hole."

How's the rest of the bike look?

 

So left fatbob cap w/guage is fixed.. doesn’t remove for putting gas in? I assume this, but don’t know for sure.

The bike is pretty good. There is a soft patina on a good portion of the Chrome. Originally I like things perfect and I thought I’d be replacing lots. It’s not the money, but the more I looked at it, the more the Bike is mostly original, other than mild wiring hacks and the carb conversion.. the more I think I’m gonna leave it right how it is other than internal performance. I may put my 127 in here and finish a 131 for the softail… but honestly don’t want to do that right now. I’d kinda like to just ride and do a ride up the coast.. but if I find the motor is too far gone and tired, we’ll than a swap will take place. Got trip in may on the softail so I’ll leave it till than.

If the motor is decent, if the run out isn’t too bad.. I’ll just do a top end and leave it. But with 70k+ miles I’ll bet the bottom end won’t make me happy. Most would just run it.. I bet it will go another 50-70k miles and just slowly get worse, but I’m too **** and too throttle happy to leave it alone. I’m competitive and while this one is really for the wife and I to take trips, I can’t have the slowest bike in the pack. I’m far too immature for that.

 

The left cap is NOT a cap.
Not to be removed unless you are going to replace.
It has a wire under it.
If you try to remove there is a large possibility that replacement will be required.
From factory it comes with a sticker that reads something like "do not twist"

How do you remove the cover over the tree’s risers? How do you remove the chrome arrow over the seam of the two sides of the head light?
From memory..
It is a project.
Bring out a table and place near the bike.
Remove windshield, cover with clean towel and lean against wall away from work area.
Cover the front fender.
Then cover the front fender again.
Then confirm and add something more to front fender.
Start at headlight nacelle.
Remove the only screw at bottom of head light ring.
Go placing items on the table in order.
Then remove the head light ring by poping from bottom. Ring will move slightly towards FRONT of bike and UP to remove.
The weird top little spring like piece will stay in the ring removed and you will scratch head.
It is the part that will mount the top part of ring to nacelle at one specific spot..review and nod head..make mental note for reinstallation.
When remove you will see about half a dozen small bolts (black?) along edge with phillips head.
Each of those goes into a black rubber holder piece.
Remove those.
Do NOT remove the larger decoy screws that control head lamp angle.
Place items in order on top of table.
Hold head lamp when removing last two black screws.
Now the headlamp is loose except for power.
I think you squeeze and pull off the electric.
This is a good time to clean fog from the inside of lamp with a new clean towel and a long thin screwdriver.
The handle part from the long wood kitchen spoon works well.
Clean it a few times.
Now you are 1/3 the way.
Look inside and UP inside the nacelle about 3 inched back for the weird cheap thin pressed metal nut thing used for front part of of spear.
Throw a white clean rag into headlight bucket because the little nut thing will fall.
Confirm placement of rag.
Then use small pliers, fingers or whatever to turn that nut thing..do not be surprised if somebody broke that off already and front of spear is loose.
Once nut thing is removed..
Now the spear can be lifted from the front.
Now you are half way.
Now on the topside just in front of clamp is a small phillips a little buried screw but that little bugger has a tiny nut inside the nacelle with a large flat washer.
Put clean white towel back in nacelle.
Reconfirm placement of white towel.
So with one hand use a tool to hold the nut you can not see and with the other you turn the phillips on the top.
Collect your nut and washer from white towel.
Make mental note that you are going to glue that nut and washer together and maybe you should do it now because you will forget later.
Slow down..
You are not done....
Cover tank.
Cover the fuel tank because stuff happens.
Now go to key lock at handlebars and pop the plastic circle thing around key hole UPWARDS.
See the two phillips? They look easy but most times are stuck.
Make sure you have the right phillips bit size to remove so they do not strip.
Reconfirm bit size.
Using no power tool go ahead and remove..PRO tip..Use correct bit at the end of a long ratchet wrench extension so you can put your weight on it while turning.
Fuel tank should be covered.
Now after removing the two bolts... just grab and remove the chrome cover over the handle bar clamps..
Look at the table to see everything removed.
Also note that the two bolts that hold the clamp from bottom UP might be a little loose if nobody ever checked them.

 

Correct, the tank inside is open at the top. it also has a crossover so fuel does not get trapped in the right "wing"