I happen to know they are floating.
When I bought a flush mount axle from someone we have seen on here, it was too short.
The right side cap wouldnt come in contact with the threads on the axle. (left side bottomed out on the wheels spacer) Couldnt get the left side cap in the fork deeper either.
So I talked to him on the phone. He said "maybe" I should remove the right side spacer to draw in the right side cap in.
So like a dumby, I did it.
I finally started the threads. The 1/2"-20 threaded end of the axle broke off in the left side cap. Left Cap never did bottom out.
But I also noticed that the left side roter was flexed inward because the fork flexed inward and so did the left caliper. WOW.
After I got it all back together with the stock axle I found the rotor was straight.
Rode it around town and it was fine.
Thank god I didnt have to get a $300.00 set of rotors huh?
Stupid?
Yes.
Learn something all the time
They do flex.

 

The Russell design is virtually identical to the HD design.
Russell:
http://www.speedsupplies.com/accesso....asp?item=5464
HD:
http://www.hmhd.com/webstore/viewite...p?sku=44101-95

 

mopardave

Go to the track where real race bikes are at. You will not see anything like that on a track. As far as manufacturing goes, I also think I know a few things but I will just leave it at that.

When you need to move your floating rotors to "Float" by moving them with a crow-bar your HD floating rotors are as much likely to float while throwing them in the river.

Are you better at at reading my post and spell-checking them than I? I'll give you that.

If you want to learn something, go to where motorcycle parts are being tested, go to the track and stay out of the Harley parts accessories book. For some guy who is so in tuned with manufacturing and metals, use your own comon sence. I have better things to do with my times than to discuss this subject any longer.

 

OT quoting George Harrison: "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there."

 

Well FastHarley, I talked to some crotch rocket buds at work today and they knew exactly where your so-called "simi-floating" myth came from. It seems that the original race floating rotors did not have the spring washer on the fastener. Noone cared about the noise that is generated because they were using them on race bikes. They also said that, under extreme braking conditions (like on the track, dragging a knee and hammering corners) the lack of the spring washer was the difference between locking up and not....in other words, they could push them a little harder and still let the rotor slip. If you are pushing that hard on the street, you are extrememly foolish and will probably die soon enough.
The spring washer came into use on street bikes because noone wanted to listen to the rattle of the rotor at slow speeds.
I never said anything about using a crow bar to move them. Mine move with nominal pressure applied by my fingers. If you want to spend $300 to $600 dollars on each rotor, go for it. LRB makes some fantastic rotors in that price range. I don't see a need to waste money on something that I don't need.
You can make up anything you want...it's the internet.....can you SHOW ME where you saw a HD parts catalog describing my rotors as "simi-floating"? I already know the answer....you have a nice life...

 

floating or whatever, I put 60,000 miles on my last bike and have 15k on my current bike with no issues on the HD "floating" rotors.

 

30K+ on my HD floating rotors and couldn't be happier.

Rick

 

Hey...are you guys sure they float? LOL

 

Got 61,000 miles on my HD floaters and know problems yet. I hope I didn't jinx myself!!!

 

I was at Sturgis and saw some new rotors made by a company called "RayGun". They have a lifetime warranty that covers warping and they say that they will never wear out. Some pretty amazing claims, (80k mile pad life, no dust etc..). Has anyone out there tried them? Thanks W