Painting Inner Fairing
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 3
From: Southeastern Michigan
Here's what I did and it turned out very professional. I question the long term (years) durability, but so far so good.
You'll need:
*Acetone or wax/grease remover (non residue).
*Duplicolor or similar Adhesion Inhibiting Primer (for plastics if possible)
*HD or similar Color Coat paint (at least 2 cans) I like HD's paint because it's an Acrylic Laquer, It flows nice and dries fast.
* HD or similar Clear Coat paint (if desired).
Whatever you choose it's best to get the same type/brand as the Color coat.
**400 & 1000 grit sandpaper (optional)
*3M weatherstrip adhesive.
For a show quality finish:
**2000 grit sand paper
**Maguire's #3 and #7 polish
**Terry cloth polishing pads
1) Remove inner fairing and cap from bike. See service
manual. Take pitures or draw a pic of wire routing.
2) Remove all gauges, switches, and rubber, surrounding the Inner fairing and Cap.
3) Wipe down the inner and Cap with Acetone to remove any wax, grease, etc. Do it a couple times to be sure.
4) lightly wipe with cheese cloth or something similar to remove all lint, dust, etc. from the surface, then hang parts someplace dust free for painting. Make sure that you hang them so that it is easy to get to ALL the nooks and cranny's when you spray.
TIP: I put my spray cans in hot water for a few minutes prior to painting to get a better flow.
Seems to help. But not absolutely necessary.
Shake well!
5) I used Duplicolor's Adhesion Inhibitor Primer next. Follow directions on label. Several light coats are preferable. Let dry the recommended amount of time.
6) Next using HD's paint (whichever color you use)
apply a very light (mist) coat to your part(s) ensuring that you get all visible surfaces - especially the gauge pockets. Allow a few minutes to become tacky.
7) Apply your next coats so that the paint looks wet and uniform, but not to the point that it starts to run. Let the paint become tacky between each consecutive coat. This step completely determines whether or not you need to go further. If you have a nice shiny uniform finish with several coats - you're done. Unless you wish to apply a clear coat.
Also, if you wish to wet sand between coats I recommend 400 grit sandpaper and allowing the paint to completely dry prior to sanding, and cleaning completly before the next coat.
8) A: Clear coat - same as above if the last color coat is nearly dry and perfect start painting clear.
OR
B: Also same as above but allow base coat to dry completly, and lightly wetsand with 1000 grit sandpaper. Preferable if surface is uniform in color but not gloss, or minor surface imperfections exist.
If you plan to wetsand and buff for the final finish - several coats are preffered so you don't sand through to the Base coat.
Tip: Wetsand using a lot of clean water. Any sand or dust will act as a super abrasive and cut into your surface. If you drop your sand paper - replace it. KEEP YOUR PAINT SURFACE CLEAN!
9) For a perfect finish either with base coat only or with a clear coat. I wetsand with 2000 grit sandpaper making sure I get the surface as smooth as possible, removing all "orange peel", runs and sags, and getting the entire surface to a flat apperance when dried. Any shiny spots left after the surface is dry will be apparent when you buff.
Also only sand as far as needed - do not sand through your last paint step!
10) Once you have a uniform, smooth finish. Buff out using Maguire's #3 compound using a Terrycloth pad and a lot of elbow grease. You will see a shiny surface appear. Once you get to the point that it wont get any shiny'er proceed to the next step. Once again though do not polish through you paint!
Make sure all #3 compound is removed prior to next step.
11) Same as above but using Maguires #7. Much esier and faster, and you will see your show qulity finish come through.
12) Either re-apply the original rubber weatherstrip around the Inner using 3M weatherstrip adhesive (apply sparringly) or buy new from HD.
13) Install gauges, switches, etc and put er back together.
Sounds like a lot of work but the painting is pretty easy. The sanding/buffing is kinda time consuming, but worth it in my opinion.
You'll need:
*Acetone or wax/grease remover (non residue).
*Duplicolor or similar Adhesion Inhibiting Primer (for plastics if possible)
*HD or similar Color Coat paint (at least 2 cans) I like HD's paint because it's an Acrylic Laquer, It flows nice and dries fast.
* HD or similar Clear Coat paint (if desired).
Whatever you choose it's best to get the same type/brand as the Color coat.
**400 & 1000 grit sandpaper (optional)
*3M weatherstrip adhesive.
For a show quality finish:
**2000 grit sand paper
**Maguire's #3 and #7 polish
**Terry cloth polishing pads
1) Remove inner fairing and cap from bike. See service
manual. Take pitures or draw a pic of wire routing.2) Remove all gauges, switches, and rubber, surrounding the Inner fairing and Cap.
3) Wipe down the inner and Cap with Acetone to remove any wax, grease, etc. Do it a couple times to be sure.
4) lightly wipe with cheese cloth or something similar to remove all lint, dust, etc. from the surface, then hang parts someplace dust free for painting. Make sure that you hang them so that it is easy to get to ALL the nooks and cranny's when you spray.
TIP: I put my spray cans in hot water for a few minutes prior to painting to get a better flow.
Seems to help. But not absolutely necessary.
Shake well!
5) I used Duplicolor's Adhesion Inhibitor Primer next. Follow directions on label. Several light coats are preferable. Let dry the recommended amount of time.
6) Next using HD's paint (whichever color you use)
apply a very light (mist) coat to your part(s) ensuring that you get all visible surfaces - especially the gauge pockets. Allow a few minutes to become tacky.
7) Apply your next coats so that the paint looks wet and uniform, but not to the point that it starts to run. Let the paint become tacky between each consecutive coat. This step completely determines whether or not you need to go further. If you have a nice shiny uniform finish with several coats - you're done. Unless you wish to apply a clear coat.
Also, if you wish to wet sand between coats I recommend 400 grit sandpaper and allowing the paint to completely dry prior to sanding, and cleaning completly before the next coat.
8) A: Clear coat - same as above if the last color coat is nearly dry and perfect start painting clear.
OR
B: Also same as above but allow base coat to dry completly, and lightly wetsand with 1000 grit sandpaper. Preferable if surface is uniform in color but not gloss, or minor surface imperfections exist.
If you plan to wetsand and buff for the final finish - several coats are preffered so you don't sand through to the Base coat.
Tip: Wetsand using a lot of clean water. Any sand or dust will act as a super abrasive and cut into your surface. If you drop your sand paper - replace it. KEEP YOUR PAINT SURFACE CLEAN!
9) For a perfect finish either with base coat only or with a clear coat. I wetsand with 2000 grit sandpaper making sure I get the surface as smooth as possible, removing all "orange peel", runs and sags, and getting the entire surface to a flat apperance when dried. Any shiny spots left after the surface is dry will be apparent when you buff.
Also only sand as far as needed - do not sand through your last paint step!
10) Once you have a uniform, smooth finish. Buff out using Maguire's #3 compound using a Terrycloth pad and a lot of elbow grease. You will see a shiny surface appear. Once you get to the point that it wont get any shiny'er proceed to the next step. Once again though do not polish through you paint!
Make sure all #3 compound is removed prior to next step.
11) Same as above but using Maguires #7. Much esier and faster, and you will see your show qulity finish come through.
12) Either re-apply the original rubber weatherstrip around the Inner using 3M weatherstrip adhesive (apply sparringly) or buy new from HD.
13) Install gauges, switches, etc and put er back together.
Sounds like a lot of work but the painting is pretty easy. The sanding/buffing is kinda time consuming, but worth it in my opinion.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 179
From: N.E. OHIO
Nice post by Scorpion but if you like me, take it to a painter, won't cost much. Once you put that sucker back on, you won't want to take it off again because of something wrong with your paint job. Once again, if your like me. 
I think I was quoted a 100 bucks or so. Most paint them high gloss, I would do a flat/satin myself.
I think I was quoted a 100 bucks or so. Most paint them high gloss, I would do a flat/satin myself.
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
thanks for all the help on this, will prob be my winter project. Just have some nicks on the inner fairing so would like to dress it up a bit and like the smoother look. Thanks and keep putting any info on here.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 3
From: Southeastern Michigan
Yes it is!
I'm assuming you're talking to me?
Road captain is determined by number of posts. FYI