Questions about a tw6-6 103 build
#1
Questions about a tw6-6 103 build
Dropped my bike off yesterday for a 103 build with the following components.
1) Tw6-6 cam by Woods
2) SE valve springs (dealer talked me into these saying it was low cost and a good time to do this with the heads off) Not sure if needed
3) SE clutch springs ( same as above dealer talked me into this )
4) SEST
5) Stage one a/c
6) manual compression releases
Those are the components I know I am getting from the build list but there are a few items I failed to get details on. The 103 bore is one, not sure if they are planning on doing machine work or ordering new jugs. I am not sure this really matters as long as the clearances are correct.
The second thing is we never talked pistons other than size. Should I go with the SE cast flat top piston or go with a SE forged piston. If I understand correctly the forged piston will bump the compression to 10-5-1 with no head work? Keep in mind the cam I am using, I think it works with both but does it work better with higher compression? And how would higher compression effect the noise level, fuel I run, reliabilty of the bike? I know these are bolt in cams with good results at stock compression, so why bump it up?
The parts will not be ordered until Tuesday so I have time to firm up details and make changes if necassary.
Thanks for any input
1) Tw6-6 cam by Woods
2) SE valve springs (dealer talked me into these saying it was low cost and a good time to do this with the heads off) Not sure if needed
3) SE clutch springs ( same as above dealer talked me into this )
4) SEST
5) Stage one a/c
6) manual compression releases
Those are the components I know I am getting from the build list but there are a few items I failed to get details on. The 103 bore is one, not sure if they are planning on doing machine work or ordering new jugs. I am not sure this really matters as long as the clearances are correct.
The second thing is we never talked pistons other than size. Should I go with the SE cast flat top piston or go with a SE forged piston. If I understand correctly the forged piston will bump the compression to 10-5-1 with no head work? Keep in mind the cam I am using, I think it works with both but does it work better with higher compression? And how would higher compression effect the noise level, fuel I run, reliabilty of the bike? I know these are bolt in cams with good results at stock compression, so why bump it up?
The parts will not be ordered until Tuesday so I have time to firm up details and make changes if necassary.
Thanks for any input
#3
Just my opinion, for what that's worth...
You don't say what year bike you have, but I assume it's a '07 or newer. If that's the case, I think valve springs are a waste. The beehive springs that are used '07-up are good springs that can handle up to .575 lift (I'm running .555 on stock springs and many are running .550 with the SE255 cam) where the Wood is .510 IIRC.
Good idea on the clutch spring. Cheap and will ensure you don't have any clutch slippage.
A/C is a must if you are going big bore.
Good idea on the compression releases. For an extra $100 it's really, really cheap insurance for your battery and starter.
As far as the pistons/cylinders.... Not 100% sure, but if they sell you a 103" kit, it usually comes with jugs and pistons. They are typically flat tops that will get you around 10:1 which the 6-6 likes, and I bet that's what you are getting. I'd shy away from 10.5:1 with that cam. Not that it wouldn't work, but with the intake closing at 40*, you "could" run in to pinging issues. Not that a good tuner can't adjust the timing, but if you pull out all the timing advance what's the point?
I'd check on the springs (IMO not necessary to change) and be sure you are getting the flat tops, not the domed pistons. I think you will be pleased with rideability on that setup at 10:1 Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
You don't say what year bike you have, but I assume it's a '07 or newer. If that's the case, I think valve springs are a waste. The beehive springs that are used '07-up are good springs that can handle up to .575 lift (I'm running .555 on stock springs and many are running .550 with the SE255 cam) where the Wood is .510 IIRC.
Good idea on the clutch spring. Cheap and will ensure you don't have any clutch slippage.
A/C is a must if you are going big bore.
Good idea on the compression releases. For an extra $100 it's really, really cheap insurance for your battery and starter.
As far as the pistons/cylinders.... Not 100% sure, but if they sell you a 103" kit, it usually comes with jugs and pistons. They are typically flat tops that will get you around 10:1 which the 6-6 likes, and I bet that's what you are getting. I'd shy away from 10.5:1 with that cam. Not that it wouldn't work, but with the intake closing at 40*, you "could" run in to pinging issues. Not that a good tuner can't adjust the timing, but if you pull out all the timing advance what's the point?
I'd check on the springs (IMO not necessary to change) and be sure you are getting the flat tops, not the domed pistons. I think you will be pleased with rideability on that setup at 10:1 Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
#4
#5
I don't think they are "mandatory", but they sure are nice. I'm at about 10.2:1 and have the Andrews 54 cam in mine which closes the intake at 42*. I sometimes forget to push them and it starts, but I can tell the starter is straining when I do that.
Forgot to add.... These are solely my opinions based on tons of reading, talking with different builders and forum members as well. I have no vested interest in any one camshaft manufacturer, tuning device, or engine kit. IMO, FWIW, YMMV, etc. Opinions are like a-holes....
Forgot to add.... These are solely my opinions based on tons of reading, talking with different builders and forum members as well. I have no vested interest in any one camshaft manufacturer, tuning device, or engine kit. IMO, FWIW, YMMV, etc. Opinions are like a-holes....
Last edited by 07RoadHawg; 02-28-2010 at 10:02 AM.
#6
Dropped my bike off yesterday for a 103 build with the following components.
1) Tw6-6 cam by Woods
2) SE valve springs (dealer talked me into these saying it was low cost and a good time to do this with the heads off) Not sure if needed
3) SE clutch springs ( same as above dealer talked me into this )
4) SEST
5) Stage one a/c
6) manual compression releases
Those are the components I know I am getting from the build list but there are a few items I failed to get details on. The 103 bore is one, not sure if they are planning on doing machine work or ordering new jugs. I am not sure this really matters as long as the clearances are correct.
The second thing is we never talked pistons other than size. Should I go with the SE cast flat top piston or go with a SE forged piston. If I understand correctly the forged piston will bump the compression to 10-5-1 with no head work? Keep in mind the cam I am using, I think it works with both but does it work better with higher compression? And how would higher compression effect the noise level, fuel I run, reliabilty of the bike? I know these are bolt in cams with good results at stock compression, so why bump it up?
The parts will not be ordered until Tuesday so I have time to firm up details and make changes if necassary.
Thanks for any input
1) Tw6-6 cam by Woods
2) SE valve springs (dealer talked me into these saying it was low cost and a good time to do this with the heads off) Not sure if needed
3) SE clutch springs ( same as above dealer talked me into this )
4) SEST
5) Stage one a/c
6) manual compression releases
Those are the components I know I am getting from the build list but there are a few items I failed to get details on. The 103 bore is one, not sure if they are planning on doing machine work or ordering new jugs. I am not sure this really matters as long as the clearances are correct.
The second thing is we never talked pistons other than size. Should I go with the SE cast flat top piston or go with a SE forged piston. If I understand correctly the forged piston will bump the compression to 10-5-1 with no head work? Keep in mind the cam I am using, I think it works with both but does it work better with higher compression? And how would higher compression effect the noise level, fuel I run, reliabilty of the bike? I know these are bolt in cams with good results at stock compression, so why bump it up?
The parts will not be ordered until Tuesday so I have time to firm up details and make changes if necassary.
Thanks for any input
The dealer could go a couple of ways on your build related to pistons and parts. There is a 103 big bore kit that doesn't include cams (29903-07A, for 2007 and later with black cylinders) but does include the SE air cleaner and SE clutch spring. The other option would be to bore your cylinders and just order the pistons and other parts. As to added compression, I too weighed the same things you did (noise level, fuel availability, reliability) and opted for the SE cast flat tops. I didn't perceive the added compression as worth it.
I went with the SE Pro super tuner, though others like the TTS and PCV I am comfortable that the the SE tuner with the latest software upgrade that includes smart tune will deliver what I am looking for.
As to compression releases, I went with the manual CR as well. Decided that though the auto CR may be improved since first released, it is still a pain to change them if they fail compared to the manuals. I am convinced this is a good option though others indicate trouble free builds without them. I decided it was just easier to do it now while the heads were off.
You don't mention exhaust, are you changing it as well? I went with the D&D Boss Fatcat with wrapped perforated baffle. The shop doing my build says this pipe has been a great performer for them though some feel it is loud (hence the wrapped baffle in my case).
Good luck with your project, my bike is supposed to be done next week sometime it will be interesting to compare notes.
#7
This is a similiar build I have and am contemplating...
I would bump up to a 107 though rather then a 103...
My understanding is the standard H-D brand pistons are recessed into the hole as much as .010" and won't give you a .000" squish (quench) You might want to address that...
the SEST you may want to reconsider and consider the Master Tune TTS...You'll be happier in the long run with it over the SEST...IMHO
The TW6-6 doesn't need the SE springs...Save your money...If anything it might have adverse effects on the noise level of the valve train...While your top end is apart are you getting the heads massaged? You might want to consider this...Do it all at once...
Stage 1 backing plate ...Yes...Say no to the filter and opt for the K&N over the SE filter...Flows much better...have you rockers shimmed so the latteral play is sitting at .003/.004 not the average .015...
I would also venture to say if the compression is 10.1 and under you probably wouldn't need the compression releases...If you are going with the 10.5 then all means get the C/R...I think I had seen somewhere the electronic C/P releases...FFT
Good luck on the build and I believe you will enjoy it...
I would bump up to a 107 though rather then a 103...
My understanding is the standard H-D brand pistons are recessed into the hole as much as .010" and won't give you a .000" squish (quench) You might want to address that...
the SEST you may want to reconsider and consider the Master Tune TTS...You'll be happier in the long run with it over the SEST...IMHO
The TW6-6 doesn't need the SE springs...Save your money...If anything it might have adverse effects on the noise level of the valve train...While your top end is apart are you getting the heads massaged? You might want to consider this...Do it all at once...
Stage 1 backing plate ...Yes...Say no to the filter and opt for the K&N over the SE filter...Flows much better...have you rockers shimmed so the latteral play is sitting at .003/.004 not the average .015...
I would also venture to say if the compression is 10.1 and under you probably wouldn't need the compression releases...If you are going with the 10.5 then all means get the C/R...I think I had seen somewhere the electronic C/P releases...FFT
Good luck on the build and I believe you will enjoy it...
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