Fullsac's conversion
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Buckeye State
Fullsac's conversion
http://www.fullsac.com/true-dual-kits.html
Any one have this on their touring bike? Seems like a inexpensive way to have true duals
Any one have this on their touring bike? Seems like a inexpensive way to have true duals
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,301
Likes: 1
From: Biloxi, MS
I have the fullsac setup on my 2008, and am happy with it. Running it with Rush slip-ons with 2 inch baffles. Had the slip-ons first, but still wasn't happy with the sound, so, I got this kit to convert it to true duals 
Now, I love the sound!
Harley Goodies now makes a 24 inch chrome heat shield for the right side, so you don't have to use the OEM heat shields (which doesn't look quite as good).
Here is a larger pic of my bike with the fullsac setup:
Now, I love the sound!Harley Goodies now makes a 24 inch chrome heat shield for the right side, so you don't have to use the OEM heat shields (which doesn't look quite as good).
Here is a larger pic of my bike with the fullsac setup:
Last edited by rushbass; Jul 13, 2010 at 05:22 PM. Reason: added pic
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Just put one on my RKC and so far I'm happy with it but admittedly haven't had it on more than a couple of days.
Install was easy.
Needed to play with the positioning of the rear exhaust a bit to get it right, but overall an easy mod.
My main reason for posting is to +1 to the suggestion of getting it in black (I didn't and wish I did) and also +1 for the heat shield from Harley Goodies as a 'must have' if you want it to look right.
Tom has them now for $60 delivered.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,398
Likes: 34
From: Newport news, Virginia
I've had mine on for about a year now....I luv the sound and as stated before it was a real easy install. I also just installed the HarleyGoodies 24" heat shield (got mine for free....as it was I that made the suggestion). I also have their 2" baffles in my CVO touring slip-ons!
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 71
From: Belleville Mi.
Got it on my 06 EGC with Rush slip ons with 1 3/4 baffles. love the look and the sound...
Trucky911
Trucky911
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 391
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RR I don't have pic's but hopefully this might be of some help.
There should be an L bracket (with a threaded stud) in the first clamp (closest to the rear cylinder) that attaches to an inverted Y shaped plate that mounts to the starter via two socket head cap screws (SHCS).
Loosen all the bolts, flange nuts, muffler mount bolts and the exhaust clamps, as well the short shield and long shield hose clamps for the rear cylinder.
It takes a bit of playing with all of this to get the right position for the Fullsac header, so that the short shield is right, but for me .......... that was the key to the rest of it all fitting right.
Once I got the Fullsac header right (so the short shield fit on it properly, as the initial guide for everything else) then the rest went pretty well.
So ...... once the header was what I felt was semi-aligned I snugged it up a bit at the flange by just tightening the nuts enough to take up the weight. I also snugged up the clamp (with teh L bracket) and Y mounting plate's 2 SHCS, but left the clamp bracket nut loose for this step.
Then I got the exhaust pipe and muffler positioned right, and snugged up the last clamp and muffler mounting bolts as well.
Once it was all in the right position, and without the muffler rubber mount under stress in any direction, I torqued the header flange nuts as per the shop manual to 20 'inch pounds' (not foot lbs.) on the top, then 120 on the bottom, and finally 120 on the top. Then the first clamp as well as the 2 SHCS that go thought the starter flange got tightened up. Next the last exhaust pipe clamp followed by the muffler mount nuts, and only 'then' did the L bracket's nut (at the first clamp) get tightened (being sure not to put any stress on the exhaust).
At each step I checked that the muffler mount was still not stressed ...... just sitting so the metal could move freely in the rubber.
I sort of positioned the long shield close to where it looked right, and took the slack out of the clamps, but left them so I could still move things a bit.
Then with the first short shield's clamp (closest to the rear cylinder) semi-tight, I aligned the seam of the short and long shield, and while I held them in that orientation with one hand (placed across the seam of the two) ....... used a nut driver to tighten up the 2 "seam clamps" to tight, making sure the ends of the clamps were getting tucked under the shield as I tightened them.
Once that was done I tightened the first short shield clamp completely tight, followed by tightening the other long shield clamp.
When written out it looks like it's more difficult than it really is , and you might have to repeat the two seam clamps and last clamp a few times to get the seam perfect, but it is doable once you have a plan.
Anyway ....... I puttzed about fighting it all with less than decent results, until I finally did it this way, and once I did, it all fell for me together pretty well.
There should be an L bracket (with a threaded stud) in the first clamp (closest to the rear cylinder) that attaches to an inverted Y shaped plate that mounts to the starter via two socket head cap screws (SHCS).
Loosen all the bolts, flange nuts, muffler mount bolts and the exhaust clamps, as well the short shield and long shield hose clamps for the rear cylinder.
It takes a bit of playing with all of this to get the right position for the Fullsac header, so that the short shield is right, but for me .......... that was the key to the rest of it all fitting right.
Once I got the Fullsac header right (so the short shield fit on it properly, as the initial guide for everything else) then the rest went pretty well.
So ...... once the header was what I felt was semi-aligned I snugged it up a bit at the flange by just tightening the nuts enough to take up the weight. I also snugged up the clamp (with teh L bracket) and Y mounting plate's 2 SHCS, but left the clamp bracket nut loose for this step.
Then I got the exhaust pipe and muffler positioned right, and snugged up the last clamp and muffler mounting bolts as well.
Once it was all in the right position, and without the muffler rubber mount under stress in any direction, I torqued the header flange nuts as per the shop manual to 20 'inch pounds' (not foot lbs.) on the top, then 120 on the bottom, and finally 120 on the top. Then the first clamp as well as the 2 SHCS that go thought the starter flange got tightened up. Next the last exhaust pipe clamp followed by the muffler mount nuts, and only 'then' did the L bracket's nut (at the first clamp) get tightened (being sure not to put any stress on the exhaust).
At each step I checked that the muffler mount was still not stressed ...... just sitting so the metal could move freely in the rubber.
I sort of positioned the long shield close to where it looked right, and took the slack out of the clamps, but left them so I could still move things a bit.
Then with the first short shield's clamp (closest to the rear cylinder) semi-tight, I aligned the seam of the short and long shield, and while I held them in that orientation with one hand (placed across the seam of the two) ....... used a nut driver to tighten up the 2 "seam clamps" to tight, making sure the ends of the clamps were getting tucked under the shield as I tightened them.
Once that was done I tightened the first short shield clamp completely tight, followed by tightening the other long shield clamp.
When written out it looks like it's more difficult than it really is , and you might have to repeat the two seam clamps and last clamp a few times to get the seam perfect, but it is doable once you have a plan.
Anyway ....... I puttzed about fighting it all with less than decent results, until I finally did it this way, and once I did, it all fell for me together pretty well.
Last edited by flyer91; Jul 23, 2010 at 12:28 AM.
