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Anybody know how painters line up a scheme that flows from the fairing to the tank, down the side cover and onto the saddlebags, I am getting close to painting and wonder how they line up the scheme, whether it is flames or graphics. How do they line it up with the parts off the bike, do they have to see the bike all put together first and mark it out. If I go to one of these designs, really want it to line up. Thanks for any ideas.
ike kingsride said tape your design while parts are still on bike use 14 inch tape make sure your paint surface is pre prepped with a grease and wax remover. that way the tape stays in place. then take it apart and finish masking it off. i clean the paint surface and then sand it 600 wet sand papper and the tape it off. if u tape then sand it hard to sand right up to the edge of the tape line they do have scuff pads but it still doesnt get that close. hope this helps.
Rick
From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
I'd use a spot light, and a curved/shaped cardboard template to project a shadow onto the side of the bike; use some 1/8" or 1/4" masking tape to transfer the shadow-line onto the tins [plastics?]. Moving the spot and flipping the template to the other side would allow you to match the pattern on the bike's flip-side. Keep the distances and positioning between light, template, and bike consistent from one side to the other. By experimenting with these distances and angles, you can vary the size & look of the shadow cast onto the bike to get just the flowing lines you're looking for, at minimal cost (tape & cardboard).
Custom painting is and Art and not a job for the weak of heart.
The rule is: Prep-work, Prep-work, Prep-work, Prep-work, Prep-work, Paint.
I have done some custom air-brush work and the actual paint work is the easy part. One missed step in the prep will turn a work of art into a nightmare. God forbid moisture in the air supply, a chunk of dirt or a bug landing in the wet paint.
for graphics i use a laser level. one which gives you the straight base line to work off of. it's about the easiest way to do it. you can use narrow masking tape to hold this line by applying it where the laser line is. if you've got the bike on the jack, exactly level, then your settings from one side to the other will be identical as far as the angle of the line. hope that helps. i use a drill press vice to hold the laser level in place, and it maintains the same degrees of inclination so the same angle can be transferred to the other side of the bike or car. it's about as idiot proof as you can get. that's why i use it.
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