Possible Upcoming 107" Showdown?
#1
Possible Upcoming 107" Showdown?
There's a Woods 555 vs 6-6 thread that became a 107" build thread today. Funny. I just talked to Steve at Fullsac yesterday and now Jaime's talking about Fuel Moto's 107" roll out. Timing's everything and nothing like a good ol' competition. I guess I'll start the 107" thread by asking eveybody: let's say I go 107" with Fullsac's package. Given what we've been talking about regarding CCP, etc on other threads and I want 120TQ/115HP, am I pushing the limits a bit? Steve and I talked about his 3.06 kit (30-tooth Andrews up front on transmission pulley...that'll be a boost in the right direction.)
I talked to Steve at Fullsac after looking at their version of x-pipe, comparing it to Jackpot's stainless steel version. You know Fullsac has an "A" pipe and a "B" pipe, depending on engine displacement. I was telling him about my future plans of going to 103". He asked why not go 107" since it's the same price, etc. Then we started talking compression and he said keep the compression low low low. That got me back to thinking about what we've been saying regarding CCP and static vs dynamic compression, decking heads vs leaving them stock.
I know Fuel Moto makes a beautiful stainless x-pipe header, but I like the idea of the stepped ceramic coat header, plus the total package with TTS and everything else to complete the 107" build seems simplified at Fullsac. No, I'm not getting a kick-back from anyone for making these observations and I'm sure that Jaime will have his total 107" set up to roll out real soon (if it isn't already an available total package...I guess the header demand's the limiting factor; they can't make 'em fast enough, a testament to how high a quality product it is on its own.)
I think we're lucky as Harley owners to have choices like these; either vendor supplies top-notch stuff because they do their homework.
Meanwhile, I've been talking to Boogaloodude and these were some of his comments:
"too funny... Steve's right, if you have a choice between small displacement/high compression and large displacement/low compression, it's the latter you want. Less stress on components, longer engine life. You can take these motors to 10.25 static and not hurt reliability, but if you can achieve the performance you want at lower compression, that's certainly the way to go. I like 10.25:1 static compression, because it opens the door to a lot of very good performance cams.
Most of us (myself included) fall into the trap of wanting more. It's difficult for me to derate a motor, when I can push it a little harder and extract a bit more performance.
Even if you decide to leave the combustion chambers the stock size, (which is supposed to be 85cc, but usually works out to be bigger), it's a good idea to get them the same size. One chamber larger than the other will be working less, and an imbalance motor won't make as much power. You ideally want both cylinders working exactly the same."The point about getting the combustion chambers the same size was part of a discussion about
compression. Basically, the 06 heads have 85cc combustion chambers (which generally run more like 86 to 87cc). If one is at 85 and the other is at 86, the smaller one will wind up making more power than the larger one, due to it's increased compression. It's not a huge difference, but when you're building a motor for best performance, it's one of the things you check for. And if one cylinder is working harder, the other one tends to go along for the ride, and makes less power than it normally would. When you pull your heads, there's a couple of things you'll want to do.
Even if you don't have them ported, you can have the ports polished and cleaned up a bit. The other thing is to CC the heads, which refers to milling them to make sure both combustion chambers are the same volume. Steve was recommending a low static compression, and if you follow that advice, you won't want to reduce the chambers much, if at all. But it's important to have them match.
I have been following the 555/107 thread, and in fact, I had added a little to it early on. Mostly just kinda following in right now.
110/120 should be relatively easy for a 107. It can be done with a 103, too, but you would need to bump compression up a bit. 120 ft lbs torque is about the max I'd want to go with a stock crank. And even then, you need to be aware of the possibility of scissoring the crank or grenading the crank bearings.
Of course, you could always split the cases and have the crank welded and trued, Timken crank bearing conversion done, bore the cases for larger jugs and build a nice 117 or 120. Hell, it's only money..."
The saga continues.
(A big thanks goes out to Steve and Boogaloodude for their input here.)
I talked to Steve at Fullsac after looking at their version of x-pipe, comparing it to Jackpot's stainless steel version. You know Fullsac has an "A" pipe and a "B" pipe, depending on engine displacement. I was telling him about my future plans of going to 103". He asked why not go 107" since it's the same price, etc. Then we started talking compression and he said keep the compression low low low. That got me back to thinking about what we've been saying regarding CCP and static vs dynamic compression, decking heads vs leaving them stock.
I know Fuel Moto makes a beautiful stainless x-pipe header, but I like the idea of the stepped ceramic coat header, plus the total package with TTS and everything else to complete the 107" build seems simplified at Fullsac. No, I'm not getting a kick-back from anyone for making these observations and I'm sure that Jaime will have his total 107" set up to roll out real soon (if it isn't already an available total package...I guess the header demand's the limiting factor; they can't make 'em fast enough, a testament to how high a quality product it is on its own.)
I think we're lucky as Harley owners to have choices like these; either vendor supplies top-notch stuff because they do their homework.
Meanwhile, I've been talking to Boogaloodude and these were some of his comments:
"too funny... Steve's right, if you have a choice between small displacement/high compression and large displacement/low compression, it's the latter you want. Less stress on components, longer engine life. You can take these motors to 10.25 static and not hurt reliability, but if you can achieve the performance you want at lower compression, that's certainly the way to go. I like 10.25:1 static compression, because it opens the door to a lot of very good performance cams.
Most of us (myself included) fall into the trap of wanting more. It's difficult for me to derate a motor, when I can push it a little harder and extract a bit more performance.
Even if you decide to leave the combustion chambers the stock size, (which is supposed to be 85cc, but usually works out to be bigger), it's a good idea to get them the same size. One chamber larger than the other will be working less, and an imbalance motor won't make as much power. You ideally want both cylinders working exactly the same."The point about getting the combustion chambers the same size was part of a discussion about
compression. Basically, the 06 heads have 85cc combustion chambers (which generally run more like 86 to 87cc). If one is at 85 and the other is at 86, the smaller one will wind up making more power than the larger one, due to it's increased compression. It's not a huge difference, but when you're building a motor for best performance, it's one of the things you check for. And if one cylinder is working harder, the other one tends to go along for the ride, and makes less power than it normally would. When you pull your heads, there's a couple of things you'll want to do.
Even if you don't have them ported, you can have the ports polished and cleaned up a bit. The other thing is to CC the heads, which refers to milling them to make sure both combustion chambers are the same volume. Steve was recommending a low static compression, and if you follow that advice, you won't want to reduce the chambers much, if at all. But it's important to have them match.
I have been following the 555/107 thread, and in fact, I had added a little to it early on. Mostly just kinda following in right now.
110/120 should be relatively easy for a 107. It can be done with a 103, too, but you would need to bump compression up a bit. 120 ft lbs torque is about the max I'd want to go with a stock crank. And even then, you need to be aware of the possibility of scissoring the crank or grenading the crank bearings.
Of course, you could always split the cases and have the crank welded and trued, Timken crank bearing conversion done, bore the cases for larger jugs and build a nice 117 or 120. Hell, it's only money..."
The saga continues.
(A big thanks goes out to Steve and Boogaloodude for their input here.)
Last edited by jtomhd; 09-29-2010 at 03:28 AM.
#2
I'm going to jump in and follow this one too. I have been talking to someone else who's of the opinion that he's not comfortable taking the factory parts out to 107 because it leaves the walls too thin with not enough material. He says better to bump up the compression on the 103 and have better reliability because of the thicker walls inside. This is not my opinion and I do not build motors.
I'm in a spot right now where I'm looking for more power, and the biggest issue for me is trying to decide what's better as far as fuel management is concerned.
So basically where I'm at first is, SERT VS PC-V VS TTS???
A package from Jaimie (Stage 1) is basically plug and play and with the install being so easy it saves a lot of money, mainly on labor in comparison on going with the dealer and what not. For the same amount of money the dealer wants to do Stage 1 with cams installed I can get a Stage 1 AND Jamie's 107 kit, WTF over. I would need to figure for install of the 107 kit, but this is a huge difference in bang for your buck. But I don't have all that cash right now anyways. Something that also makes the FM package great at the moment, I can do things little by little and just update the PC-V with a new map.
The other individual I had been speaking with would basically cost me like $200 or so less than the dealer but it's a 4 hour trip each way to get my bike to him.
I'm just tossing all of this information out there so I can get feedback from everyone. Hopefully this thread will grow and be a civilized one like the FM thread comparing the different Woods cams.
I'm starting to get to the point where the decisions are such a pain in the butt that it's just easier to leave the bike as is, lol.
I'm in a spot right now where I'm looking for more power, and the biggest issue for me is trying to decide what's better as far as fuel management is concerned.
So basically where I'm at first is, SERT VS PC-V VS TTS???
A package from Jaimie (Stage 1) is basically plug and play and with the install being so easy it saves a lot of money, mainly on labor in comparison on going with the dealer and what not. For the same amount of money the dealer wants to do Stage 1 with cams installed I can get a Stage 1 AND Jamie's 107 kit, WTF over. I would need to figure for install of the 107 kit, but this is a huge difference in bang for your buck. But I don't have all that cash right now anyways. Something that also makes the FM package great at the moment, I can do things little by little and just update the PC-V with a new map.
The other individual I had been speaking with would basically cost me like $200 or so less than the dealer but it's a 4 hour trip each way to get my bike to him.
I'm just tossing all of this information out there so I can get feedback from everyone. Hopefully this thread will grow and be a civilized one like the FM thread comparing the different Woods cams.
I'm starting to get to the point where the decisions are such a pain in the butt that it's just easier to leave the bike as is, lol.
#4
They're not on the website yet. He (Jamie) posted some initial information in the thread comparing the (2) woods cams, and just a while ago started a thread for the 107 Kit which will be updated with info as available.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...fuel-moto.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...fuel-moto.html
Last edited by Fire-Medic; 09-29-2010 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added link
#5
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#8
no, you can achieve a 107 in just the top end. i just put a zippers revolution kit in my buddies bike, we flowed the heads (bigger valves etc.) and put a fatcat 2 into 1 on it. I'll post dyno results and the full build sheet after he gets it broken in.
Last edited by harleytuner; 09-29-2010 at 07:04 PM.