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Replacing stock FLHR bars with Heritage

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  #21  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:30 PM
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Dealers are getting a little desperate these days with the economy. Some will get the most money they can out of you.
 
  #22  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SamStone
Dealers are getting a little desperate these days with the economy. Some will get the most money they can out of you.
Well, we're all in the same economy so I don't buy that as a legitimate excuse to take advantage of a situation. I do right by my clients and expect others to do likewise.

If I manage to get this done by myself, I'll be sharing my results with the service manager. I would think they could sell just the necessary parts and labor... that's certainly more profitable for them than getting nothing.
 
  #23  
Old 11-06-2010, 08:40 PM
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This is a mod I'm banking on...not to need anything other than the bars. I am a bit leery of taking off my Kuryaken grips though...since they have the metal cage around them and can't just be "sliced" off.

Other than that...I'm going for it!
 
  #24  
Old 11-06-2010, 08:50 PM
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I haven't replaced my stock grips - been waiting to do the bars first before getting ISOs.
 
  #25  
Old 11-06-2010, 10:30 PM
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had the heritage bars done yesterday by dealer. 2 hr labor, no cable changes, etc.
 
  #26  
Old 11-06-2010, 11:11 PM
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I did it no big deal. Did not need extended hose or wire. Get the manual (Money well spent). I went with the nostalgic grips.

Also I believe the catalog even says no cables or wires needed.
 

Last edited by leicafish; 11-06-2010 at 11:13 PM.
  #27  
Old 11-06-2010, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by leicafish
I did it no big deal. Did not need extended hose or wire. Get the manual (Money well spent). I went with the nostalgic grips.

Also I believe the catalog even says no cables or wires needed.
I have the 2011 catalog and it shows the "required" parts needed if using the Heritage style bars. Those are what's listed in my OP. And that's what the dealer points out - that the MoCo says this is what's needed.

I did pick up a service manual and will try to do this myself. Just can't justify a thousand dollars for new handlebars... even if that includes braided cables.
 
  #28  
Old 11-07-2010, 12:35 AM
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http://www.harley-davidson.com/pna/p...bmLocale=en_US

This is from the web. It indicates that you can use the stock cable. I used the stock sensor switch and still had more than enough wire. So I have no clue what the parts person is trying to say. Maybe he did not go beyond to the additional information.

After reading the manual I could not justify paying the dealer on this mod. It is pretty straight forward. You will need a torque wrench for the handle bar clamps. Also follow the instructions on the throttle/Brake side when removing and replacing. It explains how to remove and not damage the brake light switch. Just take your time and everything fits on this mod. Nothing needs to be forced or jury rigged.

I will say there are times I will spend the money on dealer labor because I do not want the mess or do not have the experience or tools.

Also just because I am kind of thorough and I intend to keep my Road King for quite a while I made sure the oval was deburred and added protective tubing over the throttle wire. Also cover your tank and front fender(precludes dents and scratches)
 

Last edited by leicafish; 11-07-2010 at 12:47 AM.
  #29  
Old 11-07-2010, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by pargenz
Just talked to a different dealer, spoke with a service writer.
He told me that he couldn't say for sure that new cables would be needed - but they would quote what's in the catalog for the bars I'm interested in.
He also quoted 5 hours labor at $87.50 per.

He did say that he recently had a guy come in and got Heritage bars installed (56569-09) and didn't need any cables - just had to have a notch cut for the sensor.

Comparing the two bars:

56902-08
31.25" wide, 11.5" base width, 5" pull back, 12" knurl center-to-center, 1" diameter

56569-09
32.5" wide, 11.5" base, 7" pull back, 10" knurl center-to-center, 1" diameter
The bars that I received had the notch already for the sensor, maybe he had the wrong year of handle bar.
 
  #30  
Old 11-07-2010, 12:59 AM
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Use the shim in the front brake lever assy to protect the brake light switch plunger. If you break it, you'll have to splice and solder the wires to install the new switch.
 


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