Hello all...
would like comments on recent dyno results...had a dyno done at a local tuner listed on the power commander sight for my area...called and confirm an appointment....not knowing what to expect...had tuner run thru the spec's and tune where needed...generic map completely off...that I knew...so I have a 2011 103 Street Glide...open stage 1 with stock headers with cats removed and a set of CFR mufflers and SE 204 cams...sound is incredible....get compliments everywhere...nice and deep and throaty....results were 86.44 HP and 109.94 TQ...problem here is a guess not sure...these were 4th gear runs...when he attempted 5th gear runs he said the clutch would slip badly...rpm's just jump and I would see he shut down...I think it's because the dyno set up was not a motorcycle dyno...I saw 2 drums...so the load on the bike with 2 drums turning i believed caused the clutch to slip and my number not to be as expected...he did say if it were a single drum dyno the results would have been about 10/10 higher...I can't see the TQ being over 110lbs..but did expect the HP to be at least 95HP instaed of the 86....so please make comments to me on either changing the clutch spring if thats necessary and if it was not caused by the dyno with 2 drums since the load must have been above normal for a motorcycle clutch...

 

Seems odd that Dynojet would even list this Dyno on their site if it wasn't a motorcycle specific Dyno. Seems like it may have been a waste of money and time.

 

You need the heavy duty clutch spring. You will kill the clutch without it unless you stay out of the power. Why have it if you cant use it.
I got 91hp and 111tq out of my 103 stage 2 kit. It has the 255 cam. SE race tuner RH slip ons

 

it wasn't a waste of money and time...the PCV had a generic map and he did dial in the bikes afr's and timing...

 

I thought the the 103 SG's came with a HD clutch spring...if not ....which do you recommand...thx

 

Hey Rich, How's the seat-of-the-pants feel? I bet much better!! Stop by your local H-D dealer as I bet they may have a SE hd clutch spring laying around that they'll sell cheap. Either the SE spring or Barnett spring sell for less than $30. You do have to take the primary cover off to get at the basket so add the cost of a new primary gasket to the mix ($30) along with primary lube. Get the spring and I bet it will be better. The only downside is the spring will = a little harder lever pull....

 

[quote=troop;7865146]Hey Rich, How's the seat-of-the-pants feel? I bet much better!! Which do you recommend the SE spring or Barnett spring...


oh yeah...what a difference just in the cams....twist the throttle and this guy pulls...
like I replied in an earlier post...needed the tune due to the gereric map...

I paid $200 for the tune and dyno... it wasn't a total loss....he did do a good job on the tune...he said the afr #'s were totally off....it's the dyno portion I'm referring to...

 

The SE clutch spring won't hold it; woudn't hold my 95" with SE204s. Held OK for about 2500 miles and then headed south. Bite the bullet and upgrade with a VPC clutch hat and put her back on the dyno. I would agree that the HP number should be mid to high 90s.

 

I talked to my local speed shop, and he recommended se254e cam with stock heads. And I called cyclerama and they said either 555 or 575 don't recall. U sure your choice of cam is correct? And yes mine is an 11 103

 

Stock clutch will hold what you have. I am using the stock clutch and no problems with my 107. My numbers are north of what you have so maybe you just need an adjustment.