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Another will not start issue this weekend

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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by stro1965
If you KNOW it's getting spark, I'd start looking at whether or not it's getting fuel. You mention a "stage 1" air cleaner...do you have a PCV? Fuelpak? SERT?
I guess I really don't know that it's getting spark all of the time but it did when I checked it at the spark plug. Just a Stage 1 with download at dealer, and no tuner. I did have a RideMaxx tuner for a while until it stopped working.

Originally Posted by cuda67bnl
Have you tried opening the throttle some when it does this?
I have not.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:20 AM
  #12  
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Are the battery cables nice and tight? That is always the first thing to check. The "a" motors shake so much that quite often battery cables will loosen from riding. Start there and let us know what happens.

Drew
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:23 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by shortride
Yes there is spark. I can hear it trying to started but when I stop cranking on it, sometimes it almost sounds like it's trying to backfire. A big whoosh sound and fuel vapors comes from the Stage 1 intake.
Hi,
You have battery, it cranks, there are sparks, you hear a 'big whoosh' and you can smell fuel vapors: I wood look for a timing error / intermittent sensor problem / bad sensor contact.
If I remember correctly, we have ignition after compression and during exhaust. The second ignition is 'for free' because only one ignition sensor is used for sake of simplicity. The engine could never run in case of a permanent timing error, so it should really be a bad contact between the ECU and timing sensor (or whatever you call it).
-You mention backfiring: this happens when ignition occurs before TDC = much too early
-You mention smell of fuel from the intake (air filter?): this happens when injection occurs against a closed inlet valve = much too early
The timing sensor uses a mechanically fixed index / position on the crankshaft; this cannot move nor alter the timing in any way. I'm sure you'll soon put your finger where it hurts
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:30 AM
  #14  
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This isn't a solution but if your cellphone has video capability record your starting events so you have something to show the dealer. Maybe they will spend a bit more time investigating the potential causes.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:30 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by t059736
Good day.
I'm no mechanic and am not writing to suggest mechanical solutions to your problem but there are some questions that should be asked.
If this is a recurring problem documented by the dealership; "Why will it cost you money to have the problem fixed?"
If the dealership is not prepared to fix the starting problem;"What is the HD headquarters response?"
When this problem happens does it always take several attempts BEFORE it starts? If so, "Have you called your local dealership after the first instance and have them come pick-up the bike before making any other attempts?" It might be one way to keep the problem at the forefront.

Just my thoughts....


Ride(?) In Peace
The only thing that I know may be documented at the dealer is that I brought it in and they couldn't find anything wrong. I have not contacted HD headquarters.

It has only failed to start after the first time maybe twice. Duh! now I’m confusing myself.

I have called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. The first time they tried, it started the first time, every time. Kind a make you feel like an *** when you get it there and there's no problem.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by shortride
It does crank over normally and will not fire.



Thanks for the suggestion but I can't afford an extended warranty. I'm a disabled veteran on a very limited income. I guess I bought into something I should never have considered. Besides, what good would an extended warranty do if they can't find a problem that existed before the warranty expired?
I would think that if it has been in for the same problem They should take care of it regardless it's been an ongoing problem leave it with them and let them try to find the problem then its documented and thgey have to fix it
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DR. V-TWIN
Are the battery cables nice and tight? That is always the first thing to check. The "a" motors shake so much that quite often battery cables will loosen from riding. Start there and let us know what happens.

Drew
Yeap, that's usually the first thing I check. I am very particular about keeping the maintenance up. I also keep the battery on a Battery tender and have as recently as last week, had the battery loaded tested.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:45 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Expat1
Hi,
You have battery, it cranks, there are sparks, you hear a 'big whoosh' and you can smell fuel vapors: I wood look for a timing error / intermittent sensor problem / bad sensor contact.
If I remember correctly, we have ignition after compression and during exhaust. The second ignition is 'for free' because only one ignition sensor is used for sake of simplicity. The engine could never run in case of a permanent timing error, so it should really be a bad contact between the ECU and timing sensor (or whatever you call it).
-You mention backfiring: this happens when ignition occurs before TDC = much too early
-You mention smell of fuel from the intake (air filter?): this happens when injection occurs against a closed inlet valve = much too early
The timing sensor uses a mechanically fixed index / position on the crankshaft; this cannot move nor alter the timing in any way. I'm sure you'll soon put your finger where it hurts
The only thing I can say here is that there were 3 different times the bike had failure codes. One was an engine temperature sensor high voltage. One was, only the front cylinder failed to have ignition. The last was, the front fuel injector indicated a failure. The engine temperature sensor, front fuel injector has been replaced as well as one other part that I can't recall. All of this under warranty as I stated in my original post.

Every time the engine has failed to start since the warranty parts replacement was done, there has been no failure code.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Rick Lees
I would think that if it has been in for the same problem They should take care of it regardless it's been an ongoing problem leave it with them and let them try to find the problem then its documented and thgey have to fix it.
I have done that twice. Fortunately, they didn't charge me any labor when they couldn't find the problem.

That's what so frustrating. How long and how many time do I tell them to continue working on it and finding no issue before they start charging me labor?

There's no Lemon law in Oklahoma and I'm not sure it would apply to motorcycles if there were.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #20  
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Intermittents are a real bitch. Yep, they make us look like idiots at the car or bike dealership when they cannot be duplicated.

I would agree that since this has only occurred twice, and since the dealer cannot duplicate the issue, then if it happens again you will need to be able to show the dealer what is happening on video (with audio of course). And it's probably going to happen again. As suggested, a cell phone or any of the small video recorders (Flip, etc.) will work. If you don't have one, borrow one. Keep it in your pocket when you ride. Dealer's cannot fix a problem that they cannot find or that they cannot reproduce or somehow witness.
Did this problem occur at all before your Stage I download? Or has both instances been after the Stage I download?
Good luck with the trouble shooting and thanks for you service in Nam.
 
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