Installing SE compensator kit w/pics
#131
04-21-2011, 12:51 AM
Cruiser
#132
04-21-2011, 06:56 AM
Glad it helped ya! You're going to love how the bike feels with the SE comp.
#133
04-24-2011, 09:42 PM
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#134
04-25-2011, 03:38 PM
Tourer
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First of all I wanted to give a big thanks to bowa18 for the write-up. His instructions are way more useful than what's in the service manual. The weather here was crap today so I decided to tackle the SE Compensator install. Took a short ride to warm everything up as I was doing a 100 mile post engine build oil change too.
Armed with a printout of this write-up and the service manual I dug in. As mentioned, it is important to thoroughly read the instructions that come with the SE Compensator as well. For the most part everything went pretty smoothly. There's not really all that much to it and I'm sure I could repeat the process in about half the time as I went slowly and reread everything at least twice. I'd say it was about three hours start to finish and I took a couple of breaks.
A few point of interest:
1. It is entirely possible to remove enough material from the case to easily remove the stock rotor but not enough to install the new SE rotor. I wasn't too happy about that since I'd cleaned everything up once already. I had to cover everything back up and remove a little more material between 7-8 o'clock. After that, it slipped right on. Actually, once the splines line up the magnets grab it and slam it home. I wasn't prepared for that. If I was, I'd have done something to slow it down.
2. I did not find any spacers between the chain tensioner and the case. There is also no mention of them in the service manual that I could find. So, I'm scratching my head on this one. There are inserts in the back side of the bolt holes on the tensioner but they seem to be pressed in and are flush with the face. Is this the elusive "spacer"?
3. I decided to Dremel the three grooves in the backside of the SE chain sprocket for better lubrication. Not sure it will help but I couldn't think of any negative to doing it.
4. My bike only has 2400 miles on it and it was very easy to remove the old compensator sprocket and install the new one. There is plenty of slack in the chain to do this without pulling the clutch. I think someone mentioned having a problem doing this and I don't see how.
Didn't get out for a ride yet since it was raining by the time I finished.
Armed with a printout of this write-up and the service manual I dug in. As mentioned, it is important to thoroughly read the instructions that come with the SE Compensator as well. For the most part everything went pretty smoothly. There's not really all that much to it and I'm sure I could repeat the process in about half the time as I went slowly and reread everything at least twice. I'd say it was about three hours start to finish and I took a couple of breaks.
A few point of interest:
1. It is entirely possible to remove enough material from the case to easily remove the stock rotor but not enough to install the new SE rotor. I wasn't too happy about that since I'd cleaned everything up once already. I had to cover everything back up and remove a little more material between 7-8 o'clock. After that, it slipped right on. Actually, once the splines line up the magnets grab it and slam it home. I wasn't prepared for that. If I was, I'd have done something to slow it down.
2. I did not find any spacers between the chain tensioner and the case. There is also no mention of them in the service manual that I could find. So, I'm scratching my head on this one. There are inserts in the back side of the bolt holes on the tensioner but they seem to be pressed in and are flush with the face. Is this the elusive "spacer"?
3. I decided to Dremel the three grooves in the backside of the SE chain sprocket for better lubrication. Not sure it will help but I couldn't think of any negative to doing it.
4. My bike only has 2400 miles on it and it was very easy to remove the old compensator sprocket and install the new one. There is plenty of slack in the chain to do this without pulling the clutch. I think someone mentioned having a problem doing this and I don't see how.
Didn't get out for a ride yet since it was raining by the time I finished.
#135
04-25-2011, 07:56 PM
Road Master
No tensioner spacers
I just changed mine and it looks like the new version does not have the spacers, the new base is equal to the with of the old base with the spacers, it is all one piece now. threw me for a second till I remembered this post and wondered how the guy didnt see spacers on his, now I know why they arent there.
#136
04-26-2011, 09:28 AM
#137
05-14-2011, 12:12 PM
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#138
05-29-2011, 05:08 PM
I've been reading all I can find about the SE Compensator as this is one of the upgrades I want to do in conjunction with the 107 big bore kit.. The issue of fretting seems like it could be due to crap metallurgy just as much as it is from a lack of appropriate lubrication.
Has anyone considered having the components treated (ceramic, chrome coating, high phos electroless nickle come to mind) on the surfaces that do not contact other components (ie mask the parts appropriately). I'm not a coating expert but I did design consulting for medical tools for several years before returning to active duty. Many of the medical tools/components survived a far greater number of visits to the autoclave (steam sterilization) as a result of plating or any number of metal treatments. Some of the possible treatments wouldn't even change the dimensions of the parts as they chemically alter and permeate the surface several thousandths of an inch while providing enhanced corrosion and oxidation resistance.
My only exposure to the SE Compensator is pictures ..... can someone else (maybe a powder coater or engineer) weigh in here?
Too damn bad the OE didn't think this through and manufacture the parts to last. I'd rather pay a little more for a well made part...... Baker or Rivera needs to make us a quality aftermarket compensator (it would be a quality product).
Food for thought. This is a great thread. Thanks to the OP for taking the time and effort to post the "how to".
T
Has anyone considered having the components treated (ceramic, chrome coating, high phos electroless nickle come to mind) on the surfaces that do not contact other components (ie mask the parts appropriately). I'm not a coating expert but I did design consulting for medical tools for several years before returning to active duty. Many of the medical tools/components survived a far greater number of visits to the autoclave (steam sterilization) as a result of plating or any number of metal treatments. Some of the possible treatments wouldn't even change the dimensions of the parts as they chemically alter and permeate the surface several thousandths of an inch while providing enhanced corrosion and oxidation resistance.
My only exposure to the SE Compensator is pictures ..... can someone else (maybe a powder coater or engineer) weigh in here?
Too damn bad the OE didn't think this through and manufacture the parts to last. I'd rather pay a little more for a well made part...... Baker or Rivera needs to make us a quality aftermarket compensator (it would be a quality product).
Food for thought. This is a great thread. Thanks to the OP for taking the time and effort to post the "how to".
T
Last edited by Tytanium; 05-29-2011 at 05:19 PM.
#139
06-13-2011, 07:33 AM
Great tutorial, did mine Friday night in about 2.5 hours including a trip to my shop to pick up a couple tools. I wish I would have read the threads about cutting in oiling notches before I put it in but will check it eventually,,,,,
Starts much better now and runs through the gears much smoother. The bike just seems quieter and more solid.
Thanks,
Starts much better now and runs through the gears much smoother. The bike just seems quieter and more solid.
Thanks,
#140
06-13-2011, 08:07 AM
Road Warrior