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2001 flhrc

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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Default 2001 flhrc

Hey guys

Just found a 2001 FLHRC with 7K miles on it that looks kind of interesting. Think I might go take a look at it. Before I do, what should I be aware of on this bike? Known problems, etc?

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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If it is injected then you have the Magneti-Marrelli injection not the Delphi that has been standard since the '02s. You hear a few horror stories about the M-M but I have never had trouble with mine. The '01 motor was a good motor and missed some of the problems the next few years experienced. The main drawback you will find is you are limited in many of the mods you might want to make. Air cleaners are tough to find because the throttle boddy isn't the Delphi. Also many of the other add-ons from Harley won't fit pre-02 bikes. Example is the flushmount gas gauge. I have never sweated it too much and love my '01.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:12 AM
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Thanks steelhead
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 05:25 AM
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My 2000 FLTRSEI is pretty much the same bike, but with a Stage II 95" kit, and just passed 86,000 miles this past week.

Issues like cam bearings were taken care of in early 2000, so chain tensioners are the only guaranteed issue you'll have to deal with eventually. I put gear drive in mine this past January.

MM Injection is tougher to adjust, but mine has so far been bulletproof.

And most importantly ( to me,) you've got the "good" crank set up. 1999-2002 has the hot forged crank with the Timken "lefty" bearing as standard. (That's a SE upgrade on the newer bikes.) The MOCO got cheap and eliminated the Timken purely to save money, and there have been crank problems reported with astounding regularity on the newer bikes. ( Many threads here about that here.)

So yes, I'd definitely take a look at it.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:08 AM
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I put gear drive in mine this past January.
Is that something that can be done by a reasonable shade tree mechanic, or a major PITA?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TurkeyRun
Is that something that can be done by a reasonable shade tree mechanic, or a major PITA?
It is dependent on having a maximum crankshaft runout that is less than factory tolerances. So before fitting or buying a gear cam set you should measure your runout. The alternative is to fit the later hydraulic set-up, which is available as an upgrade and stay with chains. Chains are more tolerant of crank runout than gears.

There are dozens of threads on this going back a long time, if you want more background. Personally I would stay chains and save the extra cash over gears.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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I will echo the runout warning. When I put a bigbore and new cams in my '01, I was planning on going gear driven. My builder warned me that that era of motor was susceptible to excessive runout. Sure enough, she was over max so instead I went with the hydraulic tensioner upgrade. The plus to doing that is you also get a higher efficiency oil pump in the deal.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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Valid points both grbrown and steelhead. ( Tho' I would be surprised that an '01 would have run-out issues.)

For the vast percentage of Twin Cam riders, the hydraulic tensioners are a very safe bet because they eliminate the run-out worry, particularly for '03 and later owners, and will last longer.

My reason for gear drive was two fold: I ride 20,000 miles a year down here in NC, never want to look in that cam chest ever again, ( well maybe,) and I needed new cams at 81,000 miles when then old tensioners went south. Spec'd Andrews 26. I killed to 2 birds with one stone.

Installation of either isn't too tricky, read the instructions two or three time first, install once! You'll definitely access to a need a press if you go gear drive.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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Stiggy,

Jealous here about th NC weather as I make 12-14K a year in the Seattle rain. Hear you on the 26's too. Great cams!

steelhead
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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Pending what you plan to do with it, I'd say finding parts for that year model will be more difficult. Not impossible.
 
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