Screamin' EagleŽ Pushrods
#11
01-22-2012, 09:38 AM
I have the SE tapered pushrods, I had one nut break in two while I was tightening them up. It broke across the corners of the hex. However I would still recommend the SE tapered pushrods.
Here is my Story:
They were in my bike for two years and with my new build this month I was chasing a lifter problem and they probably had been adjusted and re-tightened at least 8 times in the last two week with trying different pushrod lengths and different lifters.
The nuts are very special and can not be purchased separately. They are 1/2" Hex, 3/8-24UNF and extremely hard. Any 3/8 nuts you will find are 9/16 hex, except for a 12 point flange 1/2", and you would have to grind the flange off. What I did was to take a standard Grade 5 hex nut for a 5/16-18UNC (1/2 hex) Put them in a lathe, squared up the non marked side of the nut, drilled and tapped them for 3/8-24UNF.
When installing them I made sure to use the squared up and non-marked face against the pushrod. Grade 5 with 1/-1/2 times the thread engagement is plenty strong enough to hold. You have to be carefull and use a "tight" 1/2" wrench to tighten them down or you could round the corners off. This is why I think the SE nuts are so hard so that you can't round off the corners of the nuts. Just my experence.
Here is my Story:
They were in my bike for two years and with my new build this month I was chasing a lifter problem and they probably had been adjusted and re-tightened at least 8 times in the last two week with trying different pushrod lengths and different lifters.
The nuts are very special and can not be purchased separately. They are 1/2" Hex, 3/8-24UNF and extremely hard. Any 3/8 nuts you will find are 9/16 hex, except for a 12 point flange 1/2", and you would have to grind the flange off. What I did was to take a standard Grade 5 hex nut for a 5/16-18UNC (1/2 hex) Put them in a lathe, squared up the non marked side of the nut, drilled and tapped them for 3/8-24UNF.
When installing them I made sure to use the squared up and non-marked face against the pushrod. Grade 5 with 1/-1/2 times the thread engagement is plenty strong enough to hold. You have to be carefull and use a "tight" 1/2" wrench to tighten them down or you could round the corners off. This is why I think the SE nuts are so hard so that you can't round off the corners of the nuts. Just my experence.
Last edited by Hog Yild; 01-22-2012 at 09:41 AM.
#12
01-22-2012, 09:52 AM
18404-08 Screamin' EagleŽ Premium Tapered Quick-Install Adjustable Pushrods
These premium pushrods are tapered for enhanced clearance at the cylinder head, allowing the use of higher lift cams. The one-piece chrome moly tube adds rigidity and durability, and the threaded adjustment feature provides easy cam installation without removing the cylinder heads or rocker boxes. To simplify adjustment, the tube features six flats, with one flat marked with a large dot for tracking the adjustment. The threaded rod features 4 flats to reduce wrench swing. Each pushrod features the Screamin' EagleŽ logo and is marked for "Intake" or "Exhaust". Kit includes 4 pushrods and required pushrod tubes.
17997-99A Screamin' EagleŽ Quick-Install Pushrod Kit For Twin Cam-Equipped Models
These pushrods have been designed to allow for easier installation, adjustment, and improved durability. This unique Screamin' EagleŽ design allows for installation of camshafts in the Twin Cam without the removal of the heads or rocker boxes. This design is also a great performer, constructed of stiff chrome moly tubing and thread-rolled adjusters. Kit includes required pushrod tubes and clips for adjustment of pushrods.
I have a HD-Visa; I just exchanged 10,000 points ($1,000) for a Stage II 103ci Big Bore (27532-08). I am considering SE Pushrods. There are two listed; rather than asking which a better option is, I am just asking for some Pushrod insight? can anyone assist me?
TIA
These premium pushrods are tapered for enhanced clearance at the cylinder head, allowing the use of higher lift cams. The one-piece chrome moly tube adds rigidity and durability, and the threaded adjustment feature provides easy cam installation without removing the cylinder heads or rocker boxes. To simplify adjustment, the tube features six flats, with one flat marked with a large dot for tracking the adjustment. The threaded rod features 4 flats to reduce wrench swing. Each pushrod features the Screamin' EagleŽ logo and is marked for "Intake" or "Exhaust". Kit includes 4 pushrods and required pushrod tubes.
17997-99A Screamin' EagleŽ Quick-Install Pushrod Kit For Twin Cam-Equipped Models
These pushrods have been designed to allow for easier installation, adjustment, and improved durability. This unique Screamin' EagleŽ design allows for installation of camshafts in the Twin Cam without the removal of the heads or rocker boxes. This design is also a great performer, constructed of stiff chrome moly tubing and thread-rolled adjusters. Kit includes required pushrod tubes and clips for adjustment of pushrods.
I have a HD-Visa; I just exchanged 10,000 points ($1,000) for a Stage II 103ci Big Bore (27532-08). I am considering SE Pushrods. There are two listed; rather than asking which a better option is, I am just asking for some Pushrod insight? can anyone assist me?
TIA
#14
01-22-2012, 01:02 PM
I know your talking about the SE types & HD Chrome bucks but I used the FM adjustable s & while they were a bit of a PITA with the stock tubes they seem to work fine with no breaking nuts. After putting a drop of red locktite on them I don't believe there's a snowballs chance in hell of them coming loose. Just my 0.02 worth....
#15
01-22-2012, 01:21 PM
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#16
01-22-2012, 02:24 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Want to minimize intrusion into the motor on this bike while reserving the option to change my mind later, installing the 777 cams now, might get jugs and pistons for the FM 107 with Bigboyz heads next year if I am unhappy with just cams ..
#17
01-22-2012, 03:59 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
I have the SE tapered pushrods, I had one nut break in two while I was tightening them up. It broke across the corners of the hex. However I would still recommend the SE tapered pushrods.
Here is my Story:
They were in my bike for two years and with my new build this month I was chasing a lifter problem and they probably had been adjusted and re-tightened at least 8 times in the last two week with trying different pushrod lengths and different lifters.
The nuts are very special and can not be purchased separately. They are 1/2" Hex, 3/8-24UNF and extremely hard. Any 3/8 nuts you will find are 9/16 hex, except for a 12 point flange 1/2", and you would have to grind the flange off. What I did was to take a standard Grade 5 hex nut for a 5/16-18UNC (1/2 hex) Put them in a lathe, squared up the non marked side of the nut, drilled and tapped them for 3/8-24UNF.
When installing them I made sure to use the squared up and non-marked face against the pushrod. Grade 5 with 1/-1/2 times the thread engagement is plenty strong enough to hold. You have to be carefull and use a "tight" 1/2" wrench to tighten them down or you could round the corners off. This is why I think the SE nuts are so hard so that you can't round off the corners of the nuts. Just my experence.
Here is my Story:
They were in my bike for two years and with my new build this month I was chasing a lifter problem and they probably had been adjusted and re-tightened at least 8 times in the last two week with trying different pushrod lengths and different lifters.
The nuts are very special and can not be purchased separately. They are 1/2" Hex, 3/8-24UNF and extremely hard. Any 3/8 nuts you will find are 9/16 hex, except for a 12 point flange 1/2", and you would have to grind the flange off. What I did was to take a standard Grade 5 hex nut for a 5/16-18UNC (1/2 hex) Put them in a lathe, squared up the non marked side of the nut, drilled and tapped them for 3/8-24UNF.
When installing them I made sure to use the squared up and non-marked face against the pushrod. Grade 5 with 1/-1/2 times the thread engagement is plenty strong enough to hold. You have to be carefull and use a "tight" 1/2" wrench to tighten them down or you could round the corners off. This is why I think the SE nuts are so hard so that you can't round off the corners of the nuts. Just my experence.
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