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I thought this information may be useful to any one fitting Screamin Eagle heads.
Well I have to tell you that the Screamin Eagle heads needed quite a lot of work, after removing the powder coating from the ports and looking at them I decided to get them Blue Printed and 3 angle valve seats cut.
The valve to valve to valve clearance at TDC was a major issue with the SE57 cam, basically there was virtually none, metal had to be ground off the valves to provide the minimum 40 thou clearance, the valve springs fitted were tested and measured, the seat preasure was higher than HD say (155 lbs) tested at 180 lbs at 1.800 installed spring height, and the valve seals had to be replaced also worth noting is that one of the original seals had not been fitted correctly it was not pushed right on to the guide. The valve to piston clearance worked out ok with a 40 thou cometic gaskit fitted.
Now the bike is back together and runs wonderfully, she should go well!!!!
This is what I have fitted.
Screamin Eagle Heads
Screamin Eagle SE57 Cam (Made by Andrews)
Screamin Eagle 10.5:1 Forged Pistons (made by JE)
Screamin Eagle Roller Rocker Arms
Screamin Eagle Tappets
Andrews Adjustable Pushrods
Cometic Gaskits
Mikuni HRS 42mm (full kit including manifold)
Crane HI-4E Ignition System
Magnacore Leads
Transmission
M6 Primary Chain Tensioner
Barnett Kevlar Extra plate clutch kit
Barnett Heavy Duty Clutch spring
Muller Power Clutch
Regarding Handling I have fitted.
Sure Track Kit
Progressive front fork springs
EBC Pads
Braided Brake Lines
Yrs we found similar problems with the S/E CNC heads on the twin cams too. That is why I always say "check everything that you did not assemble. A lot of problems could be avoided if more people did this. Most reputable shops check everything at least twice. Manufacturers usually are more interested in production.
Yrs we found similar problems with the S/E CNC heads on the twin cams too. That is why I always say "check everything that you did not assemble. A lot of problems could be avoided if more people did this. Most reputable shops check everything at least twice. Manufacturers usually are more interested in production.
Mia, would we be better off to just have our stock heads redone rather than go the SE head route?
I fitted SE heads to a twin cam and they required a lot of work to make them go.....work that is not mentioned in the fitting instructions, something that I think is ****-poor customer service frankly...
I fitted SE heads to a twin cam and they required a lot of work to make them go.....work that is not mentioned in the fitting instructions, something that I think is ****-poor customer service frankly...
Good info Ionhd, that engine should be a rocket in the upper rpm's, expecially in a light bike. I ran the SE's for a couple of years and some members on here that have come and gone claimed 95 HP dynod out of a non-stroked Evo with port work.
Wanted to have some port work done by a John Sachs and he wanted my stock heads, his reasonings were that the SE's were upper rpm heads by port design and can't do much with them for low-mid power range, It was hard for me to sell them but was the right decision for my application.
The SE's have their place in bolt on applicatons but do need the valve seals changed before installing and the cover everything powdercoat is hard to explain. Here is the money thing for performance builds, spend $650-$700 on SE's and the price to clean them up and port them was $300, A pro port job with all new topshelf parts was $600 with the stock heads and have power thru all ranges. John Sachs is a straight shooter and has a resume to talk the talk with headwork, I look back and his recommendations were accurate and a impressive man to talk to.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Apr 2, 2011 at 09:47 AM.
I have to agree the stock heads are good and with not much work will perform very well, with the screamin Eagle heads I know I will lose bottom end because of the larger inlet valve and the port/head design, the loss at bottom end should be replaced by better flow/power at the top end.
My bike is a 1994 Dyna and my aim is to make it a good fun bike to ride, not a turing bike if I wanted a touring bike I would have gone a different route.
I am also fitting an air/fuel ratio gauge from RB racing (when I had it apart I added a port to the exhaust), should be able to get the fuelling good at all engine speeds, then get her on a dyno will let you know how it goes.
Iam still not sure what exhaust system to go with, although it will be a 2 into 1.
Keep us informed and the on board AFR gauge is a weapon for tuning in everyday riding conditons.
2-1 exhaust, that's a best oil comparison but it comes down to how much jingle is in the pocket. Propipe gets the job done and inexpensive, Fatcat is good and quality, Thunderheader sounds great but quality is an issue and then throw in the other 5 or 6 that has jumped into the waters. Tough decison.
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