charging problem?
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
charging problem?
03 ultra classic. check engine light came on while heading out for a 600 mile road trip. Great, so stopped at the local hd shop to have them check it out, wow, no time to check it but the tech said it should be ok to run. The light was on and off the whole trip, but ran fine. On a short 100 ride with the wife, stopped to check the map, and wouldn't start, and had to get a jump start. Made it about 20 miles from home, and it was missing badly, then quit. Put a new jap battery in to get us home. It runs fine now but the volt meter reads 11.5. the check engine light comes on when first started, stays on for about 10 seconds and then goes out. I tried to retreive the stored codes with the light flash method, but no codes were stored. I'm thinking voltage regulator, but hate to just throw money at it hoping to fix it. Now what? thanks for any info.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 280
From: North Cental Iowa
It's either the stator or the regulator,if you don't have a manual you're better off having it checked at the shop. You can check voltage output from the stator, the wires coming out of the front of the primary, unplug them from the regulator & see what the voltage is,manual tells how much it should be @ what RPM.
Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 350
Likes: 1
From: Floridia
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit) between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced.
4. Remove ground lead. Check resistance across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be 0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and must be replaced.
c. If the resistance is lower, it could indicate turn to turn short.
NOTE Verify that meter reads 0 ohms when probes are shorted together. If not, subtract lowest value to resistance value of stator.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit) between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced.
4. Remove ground lead. Check resistance across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be 0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and must be replaced.
c. If the resistance is lower, it could indicate turn to turn short.
NOTE Verify that meter reads 0 ohms when probes are shorted together. If not, subtract lowest value to resistance value of stator.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30,886
Likes: 33,061
From: King George, VA
The battery that you replaced is probably still good. You just ran it empty. Put it on a charger for awhile and it will be good again.
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 11
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From: Ohio
Turns out it is the stator and voltage regulator, so off the harley shop I go to buy parts. Any advice on replacing the stator, I got the voltage regulator off with no problem, I have a cd manual, but any tricks I need to know?
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30,886
Likes: 33,061
From: King George, VA
Both items where bad? That's not to common.
You will have to pull the guts outa the primary to get at the stator. When removing the rotor, don't slam it around because the magnets can come loose on ya.
Follow the manual and you should do ok. There are a few special tools you will need to do the job right. You can make your own primary chain lock out 2X4 material. Heat the compensator nut and the clutch nut before trying to remove them with a breaker bar. That will soften the red locktight up a bit. Be sure you're turning them the right way.
You will have to pull the guts outa the primary to get at the stator. When removing the rotor, don't slam it around because the magnets can come loose on ya.
Follow the manual and you should do ok. There are a few special tools you will need to do the job right. You can make your own primary chain lock out 2X4 material. Heat the compensator nut and the clutch nut before trying to remove them with a breaker bar. That will soften the red locktight up a bit. Be sure you're turning them the right way.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Thanks ken, not too bad of a job. I made a sprocket chain tool out of a 1/2 piece of plywood, cut the width of both chains, and about 4 inches long. We had a long breaker bar that a good friend let us use, and put my 22 year old on the breaking part. everything came apart great, and yes a fried stator. My electrician friend checked the voltage regulator, and it was bad also. I stripped the threads out of the clutch release plate taking it apart, so have to get a new one today to finish the job. so, back to the dealership today, more parts, and finish up tonight. thanks to everyone for the information, this site is the best!!!