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Sounds like a fun project. Wish I could do all that. Who knows, I probably could. Maybe. It will be a great feeling of achievement I'll bet. Can't wait to hear how it turns out.
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Originally Posted by cruzmisl
(Post 8797598)
Where do you buy the locknuts? I'll likely pick up a set to have on hand just in case.
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cruzmisl, Yukon42-I know a guy, who knows a guy...............that sells sets of G8 nuts that have been machined to the same wrench size a the original; $20/set. I am looking for his email address and will PM or post it when I get it and confirm that he is still seling.
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Originally Posted by cruzmisl
(Post 8790768)
Well after months of thinking about the whole cam swap project I finally got off my ass and decided to do it. The labor was holding me back because its expensive and I don't trust people. With all the posts on here and the fact I only needed to buy a few tools (to replace the bearings) I think I'll be OK. While I'm not a mechanic I'm not an idiot either. I figured the SE compensator swap went off without a hitch so this should be no different.
Cam choice is the worst decision to make. Everyone has their favorite and opinion. There's a dizzying array of choices. Once you decide on a cam you read something that makes you second guess yourself. I believe if you stick with the popular ones there really isn't a wrong choice. I figured if I do the swap myself and I don't like it then I can just take it out. So I decided on a Cyclerama 575 cam. I saw some reviews and dyno charts and in my gut kept going back to that cam. The other option was a 555. The dyno charts I saw showed the 575 to come on a little sooner than the 555 and had over 100ft.lbs of torque from 2-5K. I'm also installing a Dragos SCS 2 into 1 header that should add some decent power too. I sent the ECM back to Revolution Performance for the reprogram so we'll see how well the EMS system works with this set up. Andrew doesn't think there will be an issue. I debated about changing the lifters though. Some say you can leave the stockers while others say they already have a wear pattern and should be replaced. I have over 10k miles so for the $150 and extra hour labour I figured I'd replace them (only for piece of mind). My goal is to get at least 90hp and around 100ft.lbs of torque when I'm all done. I'll keep everyone updated on my progress. Wish me luck :icon_smile: Joe |
Good luck today and keep us posted.
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Originally Posted by FLHTCU Owner
(Post 8798284)
Awesome. You should be able to achieve those numbers with a good/successful dyno. Since you don't have a tuner, a dyno is a must in order to get it tuned properly for the cams, and new exhaust.
Can't make any changes to the REV system so I'm hoping it's bang on or at least 95%. The only thing the dyno will do for me is verify the power output and if the current tuning is accurate. |
cruzmisl, Yukon42-I know a guy, who knows a guy...............that sells sets of G8 nuts that have been machined to the same wrench size a the original; $20/set. Email this guy ROADKING2000@CHARTER.NET; he has 10 sets made up. He will ship you a set of four (4) G8 machined nuts for $20 and accepts PayPal or MO.
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subscribing
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You wont be disappointed with the Drago's Header. I have the 2 5/8 baffel and its good and loud. Lots of torque, and HP. People will be askin where you got it at and from. You just can't beet the price.
Your lifters will be fine I'm running the stockers with out a hitch and there's a lot more lift and spring pressure with my set up. You can stick with the stock rockers and that will help keep it a little quieter. If your using the SE Adj push rods go a extra 1/2 turn for 3 turns after 0 lash Frank knows his shit and you wont be disappointed. |
Originally Posted by 07RoadHawg
(Post 8797599)
That's an interesting thought. I'm curious how you came up with that one since dyno tuning is not 30 wide open pulls to the rev limiter and call it a day, nor is it repeated cold/dry starts where most engine wear occurs. It's a simulation of real world riding conditions in a controlled environment for a few hours.
I've only seen a couple bikes dyno-ed actually, but they were sure put through their paces. I do know that some of the HD dealers say that they need several hours to dyno a bike though. I'd rather start off with a good tune that has already been established and then refine/build off of it w/an auto tuner. It would seem to be easier on the bike, and not only that, but the auto tuner continues to work. However, I'm sure that there are pros and cons to everything though. |
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