Looking for Info on Lowering 2012 Street Glide
#1
Looking for Info on Lowering 2012 Street Glide
I just traded in my Wide Glide and bought a 2012 Street Glide. I am looking to lower the bike a little and trying to find the best way to go. I already stand flat footed but I like the way the bike looks once it is lowered. I know I might give up some cornering ability or some handling and I am ok with that to an extent. I originally was going to buy the shock adapter on ebay to just move the shock angle to lower it but have heard some bad things about those. I did talk to BitchinBaggers (Ron) and he gave me his advise to just rebuild the stock shocks so the bike won't bottom out or so the tire won't rub the fender or tear through the wiring harness. I would like to know how low I can go in the rear without any of those issues? And I plan to put the bitchbaggers harley front spring kit to lower the front 1". I believe the stock shock on mine are 12" long and would like to get as low as possible. If anyone has any advise or PICTURES please post so I can see the differences. Thanks for any help with this.
#2
I have a lowered 2010 FLHX.
I had those lowerin blocks that change the shock angles and was OK with it. Din't notice anything bad. Well, that was until not too long ago. I have noticed a little mark on the top of the shocks and found out that the passenger's backrest mount and shocks were contacting when I rode 2-up!! Not good! So I ended up with eh BURLY SLAMMER KIT. It comes with SHORT (10.5") shocks and drop in front lowering kit. It lowered the front just a little too much, so I put a 3/4" spacers (included in the kit) and I'm very pleased with the way my bike sits now.
Now, the ride: It is not for everyone, I must say. I'm totally OK with the way it rides. It's just VERY FIRM. BUT you gotta expect that when you lower (loose the travel) your bike, and you have mentioned that you are ok with it, so I would recommend the kit.
By the way, I ride me bike every day w/ the slammer kit and totally happy with it!
FYI, Burly is part of PROGRESSIVE suspension, so I'd imagine they are well built....
I had those lowerin blocks that change the shock angles and was OK with it. Din't notice anything bad. Well, that was until not too long ago. I have noticed a little mark on the top of the shocks and found out that the passenger's backrest mount and shocks were contacting when I rode 2-up!! Not good! So I ended up with eh BURLY SLAMMER KIT. It comes with SHORT (10.5") shocks and drop in front lowering kit. It lowered the front just a little too much, so I put a 3/4" spacers (included in the kit) and I'm very pleased with the way my bike sits now.
Now, the ride: It is not for everyone, I must say. I'm totally OK with the way it rides. It's just VERY FIRM. BUT you gotta expect that when you lower (loose the travel) your bike, and you have mentioned that you are ok with it, so I would recommend the kit.
By the way, I ride me bike every day w/ the slammer kit and totally happy with it!
FYI, Burly is part of PROGRESSIVE suspension, so I'd imagine they are well built....
#3
#4
I agree, I guess if you want best of the both world, comfort and lowering, the air shocks would be the way to go.
In my case, I wanted my bike to look LOW ALL THE TIME, even when I'm riding, so the air ride was out of my picture (and it cost just sooo much!)
The Burly shocks (10.5"), I think, has been designed in such way that even when they bottom out, you don't have to worry about the tire/ fender contact issue. I think 9.5" collapsed length is the minimum you need on the back of the bike. You can measure it by putting the bike on the jack and take the shocks off. Then carefully lower the jack till the fender and tire make contact. at this point, you can measure the distance between the top and lower shock mounting holes. Also, the newer bikes have the wires routed OUTSIDE OF THE FENDER, so even in the even of fender/ tire contact, you don't have to worry about the wired getting chewed up.....
In my case, I wanted my bike to look LOW ALL THE TIME, even when I'm riding, so the air ride was out of my picture (and it cost just sooo much!)
The Burly shocks (10.5"), I think, has been designed in such way that even when they bottom out, you don't have to worry about the tire/ fender contact issue. I think 9.5" collapsed length is the minimum you need on the back of the bike. You can measure it by putting the bike on the jack and take the shocks off. Then carefully lower the jack till the fender and tire make contact. at this point, you can measure the distance between the top and lower shock mounting holes. Also, the newer bikes have the wires routed OUTSIDE OF THE FENDER, so even in the even of fender/ tire contact, you don't have to worry about the wired getting chewed up.....
#7
Trending Topics
#8