I haven't read the recent posts on this thread to see what's up, so apologies if I'm not responsive. However, I do have some useful info to share:

A few years ago I installed the CCE upper clamp, ricor valves tweaked by fabrik8r, and race tech springs. I weigh ~200 and always ride solo. My spacer was cut to provide 39 mm of preload; oil level set as per manual. 39 mm was too much preload. My front end was stiff and I had an occasional, super annoying clunk that occurred on quick extensions of the forks. I recently changed oil and reduced preload to 34mm. Much better!. The clunk is gone and ride is much better. Improvement was so pronounced that I'm going to reduce by a few more mm. (One of us - fabrik8r - rightly said it gets easier every time you take it apart.)

Still swear by the CCE clamp for all pre-rushmore front-ends.

Jef

 

I don't use ricors but run RT emulators on an 02 RK. Preload is set to 33mm on 1.0 kg springs. I weight about 185.. This works well.

Does the cce upper clamp change the trail any.. I've run clamps on a EGC in an attempt to make the front end stiffer and did not see any difference.

 

No. It pairs with the OEM lower clamp and I believe ride height is same, so trail should be the same. Kit includes the new (aluminum) upper clamp, longer fork tubes, and new bolts for the top of the tubes. This was the smartest mod I've done to my bike. Ride is much much more stable.

 

If you change the tubes, you can change the trail and set the ride height to whatever you want.. You'll see as about as much difference in ride height by setting sag then changing the rake of the forks a degree or 2.. 2 degrees will make only about 1/2 inch difference in ride height..

 

Pity no one makes adjustable fork caps?

 

The problem on a bagger is that it's hard to get to the tops of the forks.. Hd used to have air assist on fairing-ed bike forks.. I do like the idea of a mechanical solution that won't loose pressure.

 

True, but having set them they don't normally need to be adjusted again. I had adjustable fork caps on my FXDXT and also both Buells, but only tinkered with each bike briefly.

 

Ok so I finished up my install tonight on Dr. Evil and was able to just get a quick trip around the neighborhood before it rained in order to test it.

AMAZING!!!!!!!!!

Front end dive is greatly reduced when braking, and that was my main goal. However, it totally floats over Chicago potholes too. Bonus! The ride was nice, not hard at all. I really lucked out and hit the nail on the head the very first try.

I installed the stock Ricors, I did NOT modify them.
I have 1kg Racetech springs.
I weigh 185-190 lbs.
My spacer length was 3 5/8"
I put in 10.5 ounces of Amsoil "5. I did NOT measure distance as per the manual.
My suspension travel is 4/38, and the spacer gave me approx. 1 7/16 sag which is perfectly 1/3 of my travel.

Anybody with a 2011 Road King who weighs approx. the same as me, who uses this exact same setup should come out with very similar results.
My thanks to a previous poster, rwhisen for updating his info in post #434. His spacer length ended up 3 3/4", and it gave me confidence that the spacer I figured out at 3 5/8 would be very close. Anybody who does this should look for the same model and year bike and try to use another poster's info
as a guideline. Do your own math and compare it to what others have figured out. You can then make an educated guess as to any adjustment you may want to make to your spacer before installing.

A few notes......if I was to do it over I would remove the wheel and fender, then do one leg at a time. And pay attention to how your bikes sits on the lift! I almost lost it over the back of the lift when I inadvertently dropped the entire front end off the bike! LMAO!!!!!! I suggest a secondary support under your rear wheel once the bike is in the air to help prevent this type of tragedy from ruining your day. Don't forget to ziptie your calipers up to the crashbar too.

I also used the Motion Pro tool to install the caps which made it a breeze, but it seems others have done without.

All in all, money and time VERY well spent.

 

Ok so I finished up my install tonight on Dr. Evil and was able to just get a quick trip around the neighborhood before it rained in order to test it.

AMAZING!!!!!!!!!

Front end dive is greatly reduced when braking, and that was my main goal. However, it totally floats over Chicago potholes too. Bonus! The ride was nice, not hard at all. I really lucked out and hit the nail on the head the very first try.

I installed the stock Ricors, I did NOT modify them.
I have 1kg Racetech springs.
I weigh 185-190 lbs.
My spacer length was 3 5/8"
I put in 10.5 ounces of Amsoil "5. I did NOT measure distance as per the manual.
My suspension travel is 4/38, and the spacer gave me approx. 1 7/16 sag which is perfectly 1/3 of my travel.

Anybody with a 2011 Road King who weighs approx. the same as me, who uses this exact same setup should come out with very similar results.
My thanks to a previous poster, rwhisen for updating his info in post #434. His spacer length ended up 3 3/4", and it gave me confidence that the spacer I figured out at 3 5/8 would be very close. Anybody who does this should look for the same model and year bike and try to use another poster's info
as a guideline. Do your own math and compare it to what others have figured out. You can then make an educated guess as to any adjustment you may want to make to your spacer before installing.

A few notes......if I was to do it over I would remove the wheel and fender, then do one leg at a time. And pay attention to how your bikes sits on the lift! I almost lost it over the back of the lift when I inadvertently dropped the entire front end off the bike! LMAO!!!!!! I suggest a secondary support under your rear wheel once the bike is in the air to help prevent this type of tragedy from ruining your day. Don't forget to ziptie your calipers up to the crashbar too. I drained the forks overnight and pumped them too in order to get as much of the existing fluid out as possible.

I also used the Motion Pro tool to install the caps which made it a breeze, but it seems others have done without.

All in all, money and time VERY well spent.

 

Yes, but one would only need to get the spacer length close and then fine tune with the cap.
Once set it is ulikely to need fettled again unless the load changes