Help please. Traffic light sensors don't know I am there.......
#1
Help please. Traffic light sensors don't know I am there.......
I never noticed this much before. Maybe there are more lights controlled this way or maybe my FLHTK is not as noticeable to the sensors as a softail but I am getting tired of sitting in left turn lanes waiting for the light to turn green and watching the cross traffic lights cycle red to green over and again. Today at lunch I had to turn right and make a U-turn to go back to work, again. What is the name of the device folks use to cause the traffic sensors to sense their presence? How does it work? Are there any DIY mods I can do? Thanks
#2
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#4
My first option if you are going to turn...turn right on red then turn around if you wanted to go left from the red light in the first place.
Wait 2 cycles of the light to be sure that is the problem...no sensing the bike...the proceed if nothing is coming. They sell these magnets to trip the sensors that mount of the bottom of your bike but I am not sure they work.
I never had a problem locally...just on road trips.
Wait 2 cycles of the light to be sure that is the problem...no sensing the bike...the proceed if nothing is coming. They sell these magnets to trip the sensors that mount of the bottom of your bike but I am not sure they work.
I never had a problem locally...just on road trips.
#5
the lights are triggered by an inductive loop of wire under the road, look for the seams in the pavement.
they work less well with aluminum or plastic vehicles, and can be calibrated, if you have a persistant problem, call the city traffic division and ask them to calibrate that intersection.
attaching a magnet to your bike can help and they are sold as packaged "kits for $5~$50.
I have the left heel on my riding boot hollowed out and 2 industrial magnets inside, as I get to an intersection, I "drag" my left boot above the loop.
I also find lots of cool stuff on my heel. nails, staples, nickles
whether you can go or not after a few cycles depends on local laws. they do vary
Mike
they work less well with aluminum or plastic vehicles, and can be calibrated, if you have a persistant problem, call the city traffic division and ask them to calibrate that intersection.
attaching a magnet to your bike can help and they are sold as packaged "kits for $5~$50.
I have the left heel on my riding boot hollowed out and 2 industrial magnets inside, as I get to an intersection, I "drag" my left boot above the loop.
I also find lots of cool stuff on my heel. nails, staples, nickles
whether you can go or not after a few cycles depends on local laws. they do vary
Mike
#6
#7
You can change traffic lights even on a bicycle when it is a wire type control, trick is stop with your bike on one of the parallel side lines to the hexagon or whatever the shape of those things are. So the wire is between your two tires and right in the middle of your engine. It worked every time the last 6 years after my friend showed me. Make sense?
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#8
Powerstroke219 it makes sense but I would have to get into the habit of looking for them as I approach the light. I never think about it until I've noticed it going through a second cycle. Old dog new trick problem ya know?
I kinda like the magnet in the heel idea. That could be interesting to see what I find.
I have access to some fairly small but powerful magnets (Eclipse) we use to hold sheet metal parts in place in weld fixtures. I guess I could hang one of those under my bike. It doesn't sound like it takes much to trip them, just more than what my bike provides.
I kinda like the magnet in the heel idea. That could be interesting to see what I find.
I have access to some fairly small but powerful magnets (Eclipse) we use to hold sheet metal parts in place in weld fixtures. I guess I could hang one of those under my bike. It doesn't sound like it takes much to trip them, just more than what my bike provides.
#9
the lights are triggered by an inductive loop of wire under the road, look for the seams in the pavement.
they work less well with aluminum or plastic vehicles, and can be calibrated, if you have a persistant problem, call the city traffic division and ask them to calibrate that intersection.
attaching a magnet to your bike can help and they are sold as packaged "kits for $5~$50.
I have the left heel on my riding boot hollowed out and 2 industrial magnets inside, as I get to an intersection, I "drag" my left boot above the loop.
I also find lots of cool stuff on my heel. nails, staples, nickles
whether you can go or not after a few cycles depends on local laws. they do vary
Mike
they work less well with aluminum or plastic vehicles, and can be calibrated, if you have a persistant problem, call the city traffic division and ask them to calibrate that intersection.
attaching a magnet to your bike can help and they are sold as packaged "kits for $5~$50.
I have the left heel on my riding boot hollowed out and 2 industrial magnets inside, as I get to an intersection, I "drag" my left boot above the loop.
I also find lots of cool stuff on my heel. nails, staples, nickles
whether you can go or not after a few cycles depends on local laws. they do vary
Mike
Seriously not trying to be a smart a$$ and have always read reliable info from Mike but I just have this vision of him walking in the bar with a beer can struck to his magnetized heel and trying to shake it off......
Now back to your regular programming.