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Are you saying they just re tighten that nut on the rotor head?
Originally Posted by alame
not quite true there....its done all the time when a retorque is required on the "jesus" nut that holds the head/blades on a helicopter but no Loctite is applied so its a bit different
I'm going to take Lowcountry's advice and get a new nut, red loctite & retorque as per instructions in manual. There's still a foot of snow in the yard and I'm already fretting about not doing it right the first time. I even contacted the loctite manufacturer and they don't recommend retorquing on cured threadlocker. It will not reseal properly. Thanks for all replies. Rob
I'm going to take Lowcountry's advice and get a new nut, red loctite & retorque as per instructions in manual. There's still a foot of snow in the yard and I'm already fretting about not doing it right the first time. I even contacted the loctite manufacturer and they don't recommend retorquing on cured threadlocker. It will not reseal properly. Thanks for all replies. Rob
Rob
Once you get it torqued to final torque, don't start that motorcycle for 24 hours. It takes that long for the red locktite to properly set to get it's intended effect. I believe in many cases, this step is overlooked and may contribute to a few of the seemingly over abundant threads on loose compensator nuts.
From the Loctite site under directions for 271 Red: Force the material into the threads to thoroughly fill the voids. For bigger threads and voids, adjust product amount accordingly and apply a 360ð bead of product on the female threads also. Assemble parts and tighten as required. Sets in approximately 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Loctite is an anaerobic adhesive, which means it only cures in absence of air.
When you don't put enough adhesive to completely fill the profile of the thread or assembly it will not harden completely.
Many people don't know this and perhaps its an explanation to why there are loose compensator bolts
I would worry when the bolt comes out with dry and hard adhesive all around the thread; this would mean the bolt was over-stretched (elongated) and must be replaced immediately.
For high frictional conditions the magnitude of the torsional stress can be such that when combined with the direct stress, an equivalent stress over yield can result, leading to failure. A more consistent approach is to determine the magnitude of the direct stress which, when combined with the torsional, will give an equivalent stress of some proportion of yield......
Yeah, try that.
Actually I would leave good enough alone, not that big a deal, the loc-tite will reseal.
compensator bolt is one of the 1000 bolts that get loose on a harley. A harley is basically a helicopter with out a rotor. The vibrations will wiggle loose your most deepest inner most thoughts. lock tight everything. if you can drill a hole in the bolt...use safety wire...if you cant....use star lock washers. For the comp nut, heres a nice wiz bang fix it once and forget about it solution...I have one of these and it works...the nut will never ever come loose again.
For high frictional conditions the magnitude of the torsional stress can be such that when combined with the direct stress, an equivalent stress over yield can result, leading to failure. A more consistent approach is to determine the magnitude of the direct stress which, when combined with the torsional, will give an equivalent stress of some proportion of yield......
Yeah, try that.
Actually I would leave good enough alone, not that big a deal, the loc-tite will reseal.
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