When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just spent 400.00 to replace rotor (?) after the compensator nut came loose and tore out the splines. Any idea why the compensator nut came/comes loose. Seems it has happened to many riders. Why isn't there a retaining clip of some sort to prevent the damage from getting worse as it loosens up?
they get loose if there was not enough torque applied correctly the first time or even if there was, if shims are to thick and it bottoms out without fully seating.
Best to grab the FSM - measure the stack hieght of the compensator and shims, make sure they are within spec, clean the shaft, threads and the nut completly. apply red loctite and use the proper torque wrench and proceedure in the FSM to make sure your good to go.
I had a chrome inner primary installed when the bike was almost new, maybe the tech did not tighten it properly (if he had to remove it to put on the new inner primary). I can only hope the latest tech did as you described above with the shims and red lock-tite.
He did have to remove it to put on the new inner primary. several things can go wrong if the tech takes a short cut. To do the job right, both compensator nut and threads on the output shaft have to be spotless and free of any oil and residual loctite. It took me a while to thoroughly clean mine. Also, if the tech didn't use any lock tite accellerator, then the bike should have sat for at least 24 hours to let the loctite cure. Even if the tech did torque to specs, but got sloppy on the previous steps, the loctite would not have held. Sorry for your bad luck.
A very minor grind, very intermittent, could not replicate it. Some times it took two blocks to happen, then not again for 80 miles only lasted about two seconds. Tech said I was lucky it didn't fail and leave us stranded that 80 miles from home.
Just my opinion but I do not think the nut on at least 04 on needs to be loose to stripe the narrow spline. Some hard driving and downshifting will wring it off. After all it is a very small spline and just a little narrow spacer on the face. When I replaced mine the part man said as best I can remember the had sold ten in the last year. Check my grf000 pictures and my write up. Mine stripped out and the nut was still locktite frozen and was being driven by the compensator spring. The newer bikes have gone to a seration like the clutch drive which should be much stronger. Not sure which years but my 04 has a 10 spline
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 23, 2010 at 07:24 PM.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.