I just got done throwing Ricor Intimators and Racetech springs in my 2013 FLHTK. Figured while I had everything apart I would go ahead and change the forks for chrome. I used HD's kit that included wheel spacers and all.

Got all done putting everything back together and have run into a little snag. According to the chrome wheel spacer kit instructions after you tighten the axle nut you should insert a 7/16 drill bit into the axle hole and pull the right fork leg until it contacts the drill bit and then tighten the axle holder nuts. Before I did this the wheel turned fine. After doing this the wheel is very difficult to turn. Also, it made it difficult to attach the right side brake caliper.

So I checked my service manual and it says to push the right fork until it contacts the wheel spacer and tighten the axle holder nuts.

So which is it: in or out? I'm inclined to go with the manual, but I don't know if the chrome spacer changes something that requires it to be different. It's quite frustrating because a number of things don't match up between the instructions and the manual. For example the manual states axle nut torque is 60-65 ft lbs but the instructions say 50-55. The manual also says the ABS sensor has to be aligned in a certain position and the instruction make no mention of that.

 

If you pull the fork away from the wheel like it states, it should make it easier to turn the wheel. What I do is install both calipers onto the rotors but leave the bolts slightly loose. Torque the axle nut to specs. Pull the right fork out like the instructions state and install the retainer & torque down the two nuts.

There will be some resistance turning the front wheel but it should spin around at least once on its own. Pump the front brake lever a few times to line up the pads. The ABS spacer if I remember correctly can only go on one way in one position.

Hopefully you remembered to apply a light coat of NeverSeize to the axle surface.

 

The ABS sensor has to be rotated counter clock wise till the tab stops against the fork. Otherwise it won't read. Torque at 65. If your wheel turns freely with calipers mounted without pulling fork leg out, tighten it down that way. I've always done it like that, that's the way the manual states and I've never had a problem.

 

+1 on the install of the ABS sensor, it should be rotated clockwise until the tab stops against the fork. As far as moving the right fork in or out, I did neither when I swapped my lowers. I simply TQed the axle nut to spec, then installed the retainer and TQed the retainer nuts to spec. Calipers went on with no issue and the wheel spun freely. Have ridden about 7k since the swap and all appears OK. I do not recall the the right fork being any distance from the wheel spacer, I think I would have noticed this when I did the install.

 

I just put mine on the other day. All I did was line the axle up on the right side,tapped it in with a dead blow hammer until it bottomed out. It will only go in so far. Tighten up the axle holder nuts then put a drill bit or Phillips screw driver through the hole in the axle and torque the nut to 65 lbs. make sure to put the abs bearing in the wheel with the proper side out, I should have mentioned that the abs spacer will rotate counter clockwise and stop when it gets to where it needs to be. Sounds like a pain in the *** but it's really easy and straight forward. Pump your front brakes up a little before riding. Good luck

 

While it's frustrating to have instructions that contradict the service manual, a little common sense on the user's part can go a long way.

Why in the world would you pull the right front fork away from the wheel or spacer? Doing so has the potential to introduce a significant side loading to the forks. The axle and spacer (or ABS sensor on ABS equpped bikes) dimensions are such that the right fork is in the proper alignment when both forks are seated against the spacers. Just look at the design and how everything fits together and this should become obvious.

As for the torque, either will work. The actual torque value is really not that critical as long as you have it tight enough not to come loose, and not so tight as to damage the threads, you're ok. There's probably a range of 30 or 40 ft lbs. (or more) that would work acceptably. That said, I'd go with the service manual specification if I was using a torque wrench.

 

Yeah, I ended up doing it per the manual, I figured a lot more thought went into it then into the instruction for an accessory. I also got my JRI B's installed. Didn't get a chance to take it out today, unfortunately. Maybe tomorrow. The good news is that it is supposed to be in the low 70's this weekend so I should have plenty of oppurtunity to test it out.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

07 and older pull to the 7/16 bit. 08 and newer push towards the spacer.

 

Ijust going to say what Lonewolf said he beat me to it they changed the method in 08 your spacer was packaged for a 07

 

You had the old instructions. You will damage your rotor if you do it that way.
Also, take a flashlight and look at how your calipers sit on the rotors when you get it all back together. You may need to shim the calipers or increase axle spacing to center them.
Would be great if HD did floating calipers (again?).