Lifters
Yep, hit the nail on the head. If in fact your roller lifters do wear into the cam, that is a big problem.
Pretty sure an 07 didn't have C lifters since my 2010 had B lifters? C lifters are made in Mexico and a few issues, A & B lifters were made in the US and had little to no issues. Rule of thumb is if your going to be in there anyways might as well just change them at the same time as insurance. Went though this back when I was putting my TW-555 cams in my 96". At the time the same threads were split between those that said you should and those that didn't. Never saw anyone post that they didn't and all hell broke loose, just you should and that I didn't with no issues. That was back during the Harley A&B lifters, after the C's came out even the stock ones had issues with no upgraded cams. I had the money at the time and went with Woods lifters, not sure if I really needed them or not but for my first cam install I wanted it done right and didn't want to cut corners if I didn't need to.
Pretty sure all your going to hear is what folks decided to do not because they had issues from staying with there stock lifters. Up to you if you can afford new ones or not.
Pretty sure all your going to hear is what folks decided to do not because they had issues from staying with there stock lifters. Up to you if you can afford new ones or not.
If your stock lifters aren't noisy go ahead and use them. I have spent a lot of money to silence my valve train, I finally have the noise to an acceptable level. One thing I would encourage you to consider if you have the coin is Zippers Redshift dual piston cam chain tensioners. I think these were most helpful to quiet things. If you do decide to change lifters Gatermans are very good.
Hopefully you will be lucky. I have seen several engines with lifters go bad. The pin breaks in the roller or locks up. Either way it can trash the entire engine. Ain't worth the chance. I would also put tapered pushrods in to avoid the pushrod coming in contact with the tube on the top end.
Hopefully you will be lucky. I have seen several engines with lifters go bad. The pin breaks in the roller or locks up. Either way it can trash the entire engine. Ain't worth the chance. I would also put tapered pushrods in to avoid the pushrod coming in contact with the tube on the top end.
I have about 27000 miles on it and have Andrews 55 cams going in shortly. I have Woods Directional lifters and FM tapered pushrods. I have looked at several cams after some miles and have seen flaking on the lobes and rollers with flaking. Most of the time people don't pull rollers and inspect them. One roller failing and wiping out an engine isn't worth the chance to me with that many miles. My rule of thumb is 15000 miles if swapping cams to do lifters and rear bearings to Toringtons. There are lots of differences in stock and the woods lifters. Floating axle and anti pump up. I go back to my drag days and flat tappets or hydraulics and you had to change. Rollers lasted long time unless they were loaded up with 300#'s seat and 800 open pressure. These were solid rollers not hydraulics.
I have about 27000 miles on it and have Andrews 55 cams going in shortly. I have Woods Directional lifters and FM tapered pushrods. I have looked at several cams after some miles and have seen flaking on the lobes and rollers with flaking. Most of the time people don't pull rollers and inspect them. One roller failing and wiping out an engine isn't worth the chance to me with that many miles. My rule of thumb is 15000 miles if swapping cams to do lifters and rear bearings to Toringtons. There are lots of differences in stock and the woods lifters. Floating axle and anti pump up. I go back to my drag days and flat tappets or hydraulics and you had to change. Rollers lasted long time unless they were loaded up with 300#'s seat and 800 open pressure. These were solid rollers not hydraulics.
BTW, are FM push rods tappered?








