I just bought a complete unit from J&P.
Been on there for years and no problems.
Many brands to chose from.

 

I think performance machine makes a complete setup that makes the shift pegs more adjustable. One spline is a big move.

 

These are what I bought & work very well
LXM – LXF Rod Ends | Self-Lubricating Nylafiber MATRIX Race | Rodend Supply

 

These are what I bought & work very well
LXM – LXF Rod Ends | Self-Lubricating Nylafiber MATRIX Race | Rodend Supply

 

Thanks to all who replied.

I threw in the towel on "the adjustability factor", and ordered a pair of right-hand-thread pieces from McMaster's. I'll dig around the spare parts box for bolts when they get here...

 

I did the same thing with the heim joints, then I bought a chrome faucet supply line from the home cheapo, cut it to the correct length and covered the stock rod. This kit with the bolts;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heim-Joint-R...429d82&vxp=mtr

 

LOL. he's talking about the levers at either end of the shift rod. If one end reversed thread, then spinning the rod would spread the levers or draw them in.

 

When you bet the new ends simply take an eye to eye measurement (stock linkage) so the rod ends up in the same place. It's something that really never needs adjusting once in place.

 

Here's the finished job of replacing the shift linkage on my 2000 Road Glide.

I used heim joints from McMaster.com:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6072k165/=sszvsa
These have oil-impregnated bronze races, made in the USA.
(Ordered Sunday, parts arrived via UPS early Tuesday afternoon!)

Also used a couple of stainless steel bolts (5/16 x 24):
Front - 1.25"
Rear - 1"

Also, a stainless Nylock nut for the front arm.
And some small nylon washers for spacers.
Total cost for parts was about $22.

I used the original factory rod and nuts.

When I put the heim joints on the factory rod, even when screwed on all the way, there is about 3/8" more "length" in the rod. Doesn't make much actual difference when done.

Because of the slight offset angle that exists between the front and tranny levers, I thought I'd try the nylon washers as spacers so that the heim ball and arm wouldn't rub against the levers or bolts. We'll see how that idea goes after a ride or two (wondering if the nylon can "take the heat").

I realize the nylock nut doesn't look as snazzy as would a "closed end" nut, but I was going for functionality first, looks second.

Some pics:

 

McMaster does offer the ends in stainless but they are not bronze lined

http://www.mcmaster.com/#59915k483/=sutbnw