Installed Lift Kit, with Pictures :)
#1
Installed Lift Kit, with Pictures :)
So, I've been riding motorcycles longer than most of you have been alive...not bragging just letting you know where I come from. First one was a 125cc Tohatsu on Okinawa in 1962. Took me and my buddy Joe Juka all over that Island snorkeling and skin diving....where are you Joe. We were young Marines and having the time of our lives. But that's another story.
I've been lucky, had so many Harley's, sportsters, FLH's, Electra, Ultra's and now a Tri Glide. Always did my own wrenching as much as possible, cept when I had a new one and a Warrantee Anyhoo, I'm 72 1/2, see when you get old you revert back to like when you were 4 going on 5. Someone asks how old are you 4, and you say in an angry tone, NO I'M 4 and a HALF.
So had a heart attack, bypass 4, and a small stroke screwed up my balance for a while, so two wheels had to go, bye bye Heritage, hello Tri Glide.
So snooping and pooping around the forum, I kept reading about these lift kits, and I too had noticed the glide squatting like a female dog taking a leak, so I decided to remedy the situation. I read all the posts where some had problems and some didn't, but I thought with my experience and tools it would be a challenge, and I'm up for that.
I got on E-Bay and searched out and bought a kit, sorry had to get the cheapest one available, 80 bucks and free shipping. Hey I'm retired on a fixed income and social security that Merle didn't want, so got to be frugal.
So if you've read this far, you deserve to see how I carried out the Mod.
Stock Tri-Glide height.<br/>
Keep an eye on that ruler, the change is amazing.
These are the tools I used, Craftsman 1/2 socket set, only needed the 9/16 a breaker bar and a combination open end and ratching 3/4 craftsman wrench.
Also a small 2 ton jack, and a couple of 4 ton jack stands. In the picture I have removed the wheels, and placed the jack stands under the frame where the forward bolts for the rear bumper bolts on. I jacked the bike up one side at a time using the frame adjacent to the tie down loops. When you position the jack stands remember to place them where they do not interfere with the axle's ability to move.
Here you can see where the Jack has been placed and where the jack stand is located. We are looking from the front towards the rear of the bike.
This is the kit I installed, the new bracket is on the bottom and you can see the 1.25 inches of lift it will provide and a slight rear move of the shock mount. Hardened steel, Lazer cut and the bracket itself is threaded to match the shock bolt. I used Blue Loctite on all the fastener's as I installed them.
This is my Emergency Brake it is a rubber band I made from a bicycle tube, just cut a band from it and it keeps the bike from moving while I am playing with it
The new bracket is installed, no problems. I installed the top bolt first leaving it fairly loose at least a quarter inch from being locked down. Then installed the shock bolt, again leaving it very loose bolt protruding through the bracket about a quarter inch. The two holes at the bottom of the bracket didn't line up, but I figured that it would pivot up when I gently lowered the jack, that's what I did. The two holes matched the frame and I pushed the bolts home, not forgetting to put blue Loctite on them. Started tighten up the bolts leaving the shock bolt as the last one. It was very easy. You might note that even though the bracket is threaded, I put a nut on the Shock bolt just as an added safety measure, also Loctited.
Also, make sure and drain the air out of your shocks before starting, additionally remove BOTH stock brackets before attempting to install the lift kit brackets.
Now we can fit the ruler under the rear bumper and there is about 6 1/4 inches of ground clearance under those mufflers. First turn out of the driveway on the way to Church Wednesday was an eye opener. SO MUCH EASIER. Slow speed turns are much easier with the kit, didn't notice a whole lot of change in the ride, but the slow speed turns are really affected in a good way from the installation.. Love it.
So there you go, another happy camper, and old Marine Master Gunnery Sergeant says, "You can do it"
Happy Trails
I've been lucky, had so many Harley's, sportsters, FLH's, Electra, Ultra's and now a Tri Glide. Always did my own wrenching as much as possible, cept when I had a new one and a Warrantee Anyhoo, I'm 72 1/2, see when you get old you revert back to like when you were 4 going on 5. Someone asks how old are you 4, and you say in an angry tone, NO I'M 4 and a HALF.
So had a heart attack, bypass 4, and a small stroke screwed up my balance for a while, so two wheels had to go, bye bye Heritage, hello Tri Glide.
So snooping and pooping around the forum, I kept reading about these lift kits, and I too had noticed the glide squatting like a female dog taking a leak, so I decided to remedy the situation. I read all the posts where some had problems and some didn't, but I thought with my experience and tools it would be a challenge, and I'm up for that.
I got on E-Bay and searched out and bought a kit, sorry had to get the cheapest one available, 80 bucks and free shipping. Hey I'm retired on a fixed income and social security that Merle didn't want, so got to be frugal.
So if you've read this far, you deserve to see how I carried out the Mod.
Stock Tri-Glide height.<br/>
Keep an eye on that ruler, the change is amazing.
These are the tools I used, Craftsman 1/2 socket set, only needed the 9/16 a breaker bar and a combination open end and ratching 3/4 craftsman wrench.
Also a small 2 ton jack, and a couple of 4 ton jack stands. In the picture I have removed the wheels, and placed the jack stands under the frame where the forward bolts for the rear bumper bolts on. I jacked the bike up one side at a time using the frame adjacent to the tie down loops. When you position the jack stands remember to place them where they do not interfere with the axle's ability to move.
Here you can see where the Jack has been placed and where the jack stand is located. We are looking from the front towards the rear of the bike.
This is the kit I installed, the new bracket is on the bottom and you can see the 1.25 inches of lift it will provide and a slight rear move of the shock mount. Hardened steel, Lazer cut and the bracket itself is threaded to match the shock bolt. I used Blue Loctite on all the fastener's as I installed them.
This is my Emergency Brake it is a rubber band I made from a bicycle tube, just cut a band from it and it keeps the bike from moving while I am playing with it
The new bracket is installed, no problems. I installed the top bolt first leaving it fairly loose at least a quarter inch from being locked down. Then installed the shock bolt, again leaving it very loose bolt protruding through the bracket about a quarter inch. The two holes at the bottom of the bracket didn't line up, but I figured that it would pivot up when I gently lowered the jack, that's what I did. The two holes matched the frame and I pushed the bolts home, not forgetting to put blue Loctite on them. Started tighten up the bolts leaving the shock bolt as the last one. It was very easy. You might note that even though the bracket is threaded, I put a nut on the Shock bolt just as an added safety measure, also Loctited.
Also, make sure and drain the air out of your shocks before starting, additionally remove BOTH stock brackets before attempting to install the lift kit brackets.
Now we can fit the ruler under the rear bumper and there is about 6 1/4 inches of ground clearance under those mufflers. First turn out of the driveway on the way to Church Wednesday was an eye opener. SO MUCH EASIER. Slow speed turns are much easier with the kit, didn't notice a whole lot of change in the ride, but the slow speed turns are really affected in a good way from the installation.. Love it.
So there you go, another happy camper, and old Marine Master Gunnery Sergeant says, "You can do it"
Happy Trails
Last edited by Chaffeekid; 10-08-2016 at 09:23 AM.
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