Dead Tri Glide
#11
03-06-2011, 11:09 AM
M3 is correct, the 2amp circuit doesnt go anywher according to wire diagrams on the TG or any of the touring bikes.
Try a jump on the battery from a good source, if everything works then it looks like a bad battery,
"But" Boom has a good point in that you might have a draw to ground from the pigtail connector, only thing with that is i would think you would have a melt down on the wire,
Try a jump on the battery from a good source, if everything works then it looks like a bad battery,
"But" Boom has a good point in that you might have a draw to ground from the pigtail connector, only thing with that is i would think you would have a melt down on the wire,
Last edited by icebite1; 03-06-2011 at 11:12 AM.
#12
03-06-2011, 11:14 AM
Pigtail
If you have a volt meter, you might want to consider checking the battery voltage. That might help tell you if the battery is fully charged or not or if it has a dead cell.
Also, if you can, before you mess with any wires check the voltage through the charger pigtail to see if it reads the same as the battery (may help diagnose wiring issues with the pigtail).
My '09 Ultra was delivered to me new with the installed fuses not matching the labels. I never did find out why they were that way but I rearranged and replaced some so they would match the labels and owner's manual. The accessory fuse on my bike was supposed to be a 2 amp but it had a 15 amp installed. Maybe the assembly person just stuck in what they had without paying attention to the labels.
Also, if you can, before you mess with any wires check the voltage through the charger pigtail to see if it reads the same as the battery (may help diagnose wiring issues with the pigtail).
My '09 Ultra was delivered to me new with the installed fuses not matching the labels. I never did find out why they were that way but I rearranged and replaced some so they would match the labels and owner's manual. The accessory fuse on my bike was supposed to be a 2 amp but it had a 15 amp installed. Maybe the assembly person just stuck in what they had without paying attention to the labels.
One of the reasons I posted was the mismatched fuses! It seems it may be common for fuses of the wrong value to be placed in the fuse box. M3 looked it up for me and it was good to know that 15 amp fuse thas was stuck in the 2 amp slot did not serve the ECM or some other critical circuit.
It just takes a sec so the other members can take a quick look at the fuse box for correct amperage value fuses as listed on the fuse box cover. I found no spare fuses in the spare fuse slot either, HD save a few cents there also. Might be a good idea to stick a couple in there in case of trouble on the road.
#14
03-06-2011, 11:24 AM
Thanks, yes I have a voltmeter and will check for power at several places! I just posted and quit working the problem, it turned cold and I thought I would get back on it Monday!
One of the reasons I posted was the mismatched fuses! It seems it may be common for fuses of the wrong value to be placed in the fuse box. M3 looked it up for me and it was good to know that 15 amp fuse thas was stuck in the 2 amp slot did not serve the ECM or some other critical circuit.
It just takes a sec so the other members can take a quick look at the fuse box for correct amperage value fuses as listed on the fuse box cover. I found no spare fuses in the spare fuse slot either, HD save a few cents there also. Might be a good idea to stick a couple in there in case of trouble on the road.
One of the reasons I posted was the mismatched fuses! It seems it may be common for fuses of the wrong value to be placed in the fuse box. M3 looked it up for me and it was good to know that 15 amp fuse thas was stuck in the 2 amp slot did not serve the ECM or some other critical circuit.
It just takes a sec so the other members can take a quick look at the fuse box for correct amperage value fuses as listed on the fuse box cover. I found no spare fuses in the spare fuse slot either, HD save a few cents there also. Might be a good idea to stick a couple in there in case of trouble on the road.
#15
03-06-2011, 01:03 PM
#16
03-06-2011, 01:28 PM
#17
03-06-2011, 01:47 PM
If you try to jump it make sure you have the cables hooked up to both the source and the TG before you turn on the ignition switch of the TG, don't want to send any surges to sensitive electronics.
#18
03-06-2011, 03:32 PM
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2 amp fuse
That fuse is used for heated grips if you have them. There is 2 fuses in the grip circuit one inline and the other is that 2 amp one in the dome light spot. Sometimes the 2 amp will blow for no apparent reason and they put a larger fuse in it, don't shoot the messenger. Have seen that movie before.
#19
03-06-2011, 04:01 PM
Grips
That fuse is used for heated grips if you have them. There is 2 fuses in the grip circuit one inline and the other is that 2 amp one in the dome light spot. Sometimes the 2 amp will blow for no apparent reason and they put a larger fuse in it, don't shoot the messenger. Have seen that movie before.
We had another that found that 15 amp fuse in the 2 amp slot!
#20
03-06-2011, 04:06 PM
Jumping Tri's
Yep, good idea just as with the computer contolled auto's, you know that ECM on the Tri will be sensitive to voltage spikes or reverse polarity! I'll make sure the Charger/booster is hooked to the battery and running on the proper settings before I boost. Will use the old booster instead of jumping with an auto!