So Saturday after filling the 2013 Triglide noticed the Remaining miles to empty readout stuck at 179. I went about 80 miles before the thing started dropping. Yesterday, after cleaning the bike, when I went to start the bike the speedo and tach both went past zero, and R was now on the Odometer and wouldn't changed when pushed. I went to the gas station and filled up and then it showed a diag A9 or something and cleared. This morning R showed 201 and when I pushed the switch if went thru the normal odometer, miles on bike, remaining, etc..What the heck any ideas??

 

Check your battery ground wire for a loose connection.
David

 

The R 201 is your reserve miles to empty...

The A9 is actually a "D1 A9" diagnostic code. If you know how to read any thrown codes on the bike then do so and look them up or post them here.

If you don't know how to get the thrown codes then follow this procedure:

Odometer Self-Diagnostics DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM /HFSM, ECM and ABS DTCs. The Radio DTCs are retrieved through the radio and displayed on the radio display. See Table 2.


• Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
• Push odometer reset button in & hold.
• Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button.

Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.


• Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPtb" with the first P flashing.
• Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)


P --> ECM (Electronic Control Module [EFI])
S --> TSM/TSSM/HFSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module/ Hands-free Security Module)
SP --> speedometer
t --> tachometer
b --> ABS codes


• To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.


• Record the codes.
• If DTCs are NOT to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.


NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' is displayed. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Perform a road test then shut your bike down. Recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 7. If the code is current it will reappear. Historic DTCs are stored for 50 ignition cycles before cleared. The security lamp will only indicate the existence of historic DTCs for two ignition cycles.


• If DTCs are to be cleared for that module, press and hold the odometer reset button until 'clear' is displayed.
• Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
• Turn Ignition switch to OFF to exit the diagnostic mode.

 

btw... since you just washed the bike I'll bet it is water that got behind the speedo or tach causing this issue... It will dry out in a few days and be fine. Just be careful not to let a water hose or light duty pressure washer hit the dash or handlebar switch housings.

 

hope I don't get caught in the rain..

Believe the issue started Saturday, before washing bike on Sunday, when the Remaining Miles was stuck on 179 for like 80 miles after filling up. I just had the 1000 mile service done on Wed, maybe they left the battery cables loose..I will check that first. thanks

 

okay just went outside and used the procedures for checking the codes.
The "P" in PSSPtb was flashing but got "none" for codes.

Think I read somewhere about other people having issues with the actual Odometer reset button/switch being bad on other touring bikes.

Will check the battery terminals when i get home first..if problem persists it goes to the dealer..

 

Just a heads up. I changed my windshield out when I purchased my bike and the dealer did not put a gasket between my windshield and the fairing. Well, on the way back to Virginia via S.C., I went through a major thunderstorm. To make a long story short, the rain water ran inside the fairing and shorted out the radio, this in turn shorted out everything else. I had no dashboard lights, no speedo or tachometer, no mileage or odometer readings, and no radio. This happened with less than 200 miles on the trike. I took it to a dealer in S.C. and they unplugged the radio and told me to have a new one installed. Needless to say, I put a gasket on as soon as I got home and I've been good to go for a year and a half. now.

I never would have thought a short in the radio because of rain water intrusion would cause those kinda issues.

Bubba

 

I pulled the seat and battery terminals were tight, pulled right-side cover and didn't find any connections loose. I believe there is a gasket on the fairing, will have to look. Thanks for all the replies so far..

 

Let me ask a questiion, I changed out my stock windshield on my 2011 about a month ago and there was no gasket on the fairing. Is there suppose to be one installed or do you think it may fell inside when I took off the windshield?

 

I have yet to see a gasket unless it is aftermarket. There would be a nickle sized black round gasket under the windshield trim screws and a gasket around the outer fairing where it pinches the inner fairing.

That's about all I've seen.