Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

Tensioners …… again

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  #31  
Old 04-22-2024, 06:56 PM
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If you look at threads from years ago, people were putting cam plate bearings in the freezer and cam plate in over. many did it, but didn't work. You can buy the tools to set up the press, supporting plate and setting bearings. I bought a shop press from harbor frieght. Comes in hand onces in awhile,. Usually I just use threaded rod and sockets to press and remove bearings.

I have used the oven trick on other bearings, but I just could not get it to work here, even used to different ovens. Maybe it was harleyhog?? that had a write up on this years ago, he had a website and spent time on the forums. Had lots of how tos. But that was 20 years ago.
 
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Old 04-22-2024, 06:58 PM
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I was able to pop them out of the plate ok. The new style just fall out and drop in, even though the manual says to press. so that could offset cost of doing retrofit hyd
 
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  #33  
Old 04-22-2024, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Buelligan666
The spring tensioners ride on a silent chain. This style chain will wear through the shoes over time. Short time. The hydraulic version uses a roller chain. Once it wears into the pad, it rides on the rollers. Less wear. Longer service life.

Not really the silent chain's fault. Honda has used silent chains for years.. A silent chain has more surface area for the shoe to slide over so wear is less of an issue. The problem is the required spring tension if the early TC set up. Roller chains are cheaper and have a narrower section running against the shoe.. The big thing is load placed on the chain tensioner.
 
  #34  
Old 04-22-2024, 08:02 PM
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I used Zippers hydraulic tensioner on the silent chain. Shoe wear was minimal
 
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  #35  
Old 04-24-2024, 07:31 PM
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I have finally made a decision on the tensioners. After talking to everyone here and three different dealers. They will be replaced with the hydraulic tensioners. The gears have to many unknowns until you get into the motor and the cams have to be replaced. New spring tensioners just push the problem down the road a few miles until they have to be replaced again. The hydraulic tensioners can reuse the existing cams unless they are worn which I don’t anticipate that.

One dealer gave me a price of $1300 and will reuse the existing push rods. Having to take the tank and rocker arms off. The second dealer gave me a price of $1600 and will cut the push rods and use the adjustable version to replace them. The third dealer wouldn’t give me a price so he is out. Other then the dollar difference what are the opinions on adjustable push road vs reusing the existing ones.
 
  #36  
Old 04-24-2024, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dstegjas
I have finally made a decision on the tensioners. After talking to everyone here and three different dealers. They will be replaced with the hydraulic tensioners. The gears have to many unknowns until you get into the motor and the cams have to be replaced. New spring tensioners just push the problem down the road a few miles until they have to be replaced again. The hydraulic tensioners can reuse the existing cams unless they are worn which I don’t anticipate that.

One dealer gave me a price of $1300 and will reuse the existing push rods. Having to take the tank and rocker arms off. The second dealer gave me a price of $1600 and will cut the push rods and use the adjustable version to replace them. The third dealer wouldn’t give me a price so he is out. Other then the dollar difference what are the opinions on adjustable push road vs reusing the existing ones.
For me, when I was doing the job on the TC’s I would always go down through the top and reuse the stock rods. It allowed me to freshen up all the gaskets, drill the rocker supports for better oil return, put in rockouts, and took out the need to mess with the adjustments on the pushrods. I would also always replace the inner bearings with the full complement bearings, put in fresh lifters and check the condition of the cams.
 
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  #37  
Old 04-24-2024, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dawg
For me, when I was doing the job on the TC’s I would always go down through the top and reuse the stock rods. It allowed me to freshen up all the gaskets, drill the rocker supports for better oil return, put in rockouts, and took out the need to mess with the adjustments on the pushrods. I would also always replace the inner bearings with the full complement bearings, put in fresh lifters and check the condition of the cams.
Yeah, Check the rocker base gaskets, they typically weep around the breather passage after miles.. Not bad but enough to collect dust..
That's probably not a bad idea. Can also rebuild the breather valves.. Going to hydraulic tensioners also gets you a new oil pump IIRC. I wouldn't use HD lifters tho.. Johnson Hylifts from WFOlarry.

If the plate and old pump are good sell them on fleebay..
 
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  #38  
Old 04-24-2024, 09:29 PM
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If was mine..., a 2004 should have come with the old harley "B" lifters. At 36,000 mi, I would probably reuse them, reuse stock cams and pushrods, reuse inner silent chain if possible as it's probably nice and smooth by now. Rebuild or replace breathers. Upgrade inner cam bearings. Plus the hydraulic kit which gets you a new pump with better scavenging and a new cam plate
Don't know what a dealer would agree to.
 
  #39  
Old 04-24-2024, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dawg
For me, when I was doing the job on the TC’s I would always go down through the top and reuse the stock rods. It allowed me to freshen up all the gaskets, drill the rocker supports for better oil return, put in rockouts, and took out the need to mess with the adjustments on the pushrods. I would also always replace the inner bearings with the full complement bearings, put in fresh lifters and check the condition of the cams.
I lean to reusing stock pushrods, and using that money to replace gaskets. Plus non adjustable will never loosen, and he has stock cams still
 
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