Kinda frustrated with myself at the moment.

Have a service manual and Tusque Spoke torque wrench set. Bike is a 2017 FLSTC.

Went to do a simple "spoke check" as per the service manual. Watched a couple of videos to ensure I understood what needed to happen.

Loosened up the first nipple (started at valve stem) on spoke #1 (out of the 1,2,3,4 grouping). Got it loosened, went to tighten back up to torque spec (55in pounds) and bent the spoke nipple even using the 6.2mm spoke wrench head (sorta rounded off). Now I can't move the dang thing either direction and I think it is a smidge too tight now (high "ting" sound) compared to the rest of the spokes and I'm extremely frustrated. Tried a crescent wrench, PB blast, nothing. The nipple is not destroyed per say, but I just can't get it to move to start over.

Went to spoke #4 of that group and went to loosen it and accidentally turned the wrong way, tightening initially. I think I was frustrated from the first one and forgot to turn the correct way, yep, you guessed it, that one is stuck and rounded the nipple.

I quit where I was in fear of mucking up anything else.

Now my concern,

I took a wrench to do the "ting tong" method to just hear it. Spoke #1 has a slightly higher pitch than the rest but still has that "ringing resonance" if that makes sense? It is not a hard thunk or completely flat tone. Spoke #4 sounds just like the rest.

But now I have two dang spoke nipples that I can't turn, can't seem to get a proper bite on them with the spoke torque heads that I have. So I'm at a loss. I don't "think" I'm at any risk right now of the wheel being out of true or a spoke poking through the rim band and puncturing a tire. I'm just frustrated that it is "not the way it is supposed to be" and two gummed up spoke nipples to boot.

Any help or suggestions?

With the exception of motor work, I have had this bike completely tore down and put back together (removed wheels, replaced shocks, tore down forks to install monutube cartridges, stage 1 install, do all my own maintenance, etc). It just seems silly that something that was supposed to be a simple check turned out to be so much more. /facepalm

Thank you in advance for any thoughts/help.

 

my first thought is why??? was there an underlying issue??
spokes will have diff tensions, after all, they are used to pull the rim into alignment. there is no set torque value per-say. once the rim is in alignment, you would use the ring method to find dull spokes, if none, leave it alone. if found, you would add quarter turn to each spoke till they all ring, that way since you are pulling equally on each spoke, alignment should stay.
when doing spokes, lubrication is a must. if you gall a nipple, it will not turn. you will have to demount the tire, cut and replace. however, if the rim is still aligned and no dull spokes, leave it be.
if galled, you will tear up the nipple using vise-grips. is the spoke wrench very wide? a narrow one will round off.

 

-So the why...because the maintenance manual calls for it at the recommended service intervals. It has never been done.

-Torque value is 55in/lbs as per the service manual

The spoke wrench (Tusk) has socket-type head adapter which is designed for spoke nipples. The size was 6.2mm. Have both the wrench for loosening and the torque wrench for tightening.

I appreciate the reply.

I took the bike for a ride (about 50miles) and did not notice any problems (wobbling/pulling/etc). I do not have any "dull" spokes. Just spoke #1 (as I referenced above) that rings just a smidge higher than the others.

 

bought new in 1974 a ch and 150k later, wheel still good and never touched it. hd wheels are pretty solid from the factory so no issues, no touch. i rode this thing hard and showed no mercy. at 150k miles, i deframed the engine to paint the frame, up the hp and mod' the frame for oil pump removal without touching the engine and made it where i did not have to pull cam cover to time the rotary breather. at that time i replaced the cadmium spokes with ss twisted and ss nipples. it is most important that the wrench fits tight as the flats offer little load support and if the wrench is a tad loose, the load shifts to the corners. a wide wrench grabs the entire flat. you have to use a heavy oil but i used desco 220 since it will be there for life and stainless galls easily. i never pay attention to the torque values, the fsm specifies the minimum at 55in/#. if you are to check that, it is best to sneak up on it in steps. i always used the ring method.i have 25k since and checked the work about 5k into the install and everything is good.
before wrenching the spokes, it is best to check alignment first and if good, ride on. on thing to remember is that lubrication changes applied torque values.
anywho, hope all is good.

 

Bustert,

Thank you for the response and some great information in there.

I think I am good and don't think I caused any harm (save for the two galled nipples). Just gonna leave them be like you recommended and never touch them again unless needed.

Take Care!

 

I've been riding bikes for over 50 years, so have todate probably ridden more miles on wire-spoked wheels than any other type. I have only rarely messed with the spokes! On the other hand I visited my Harley dealer back in the '70s and he happened to have a customer's wheel for fitting a new tyre. As we chatted he removed the old tyre and promptly set about checking the wheel for running true and the spokes for correct tension. A very thorough chap! Can't say that I ever did that before or since.

By all means spin your wheels, to check for running true, also check spoke tension by the 'ting' test, but I would call it a day at that, unless they need attention.