Fork disassembly to change the oil seal
I'm stuck....Got the manual (official and Haynes). But I can't get the damn lower slider apart. The allen bolt is a freakin doousy[:@][:@]. I can't get enough torque on my Hex wrench to budge it, I don't havea impact wrench, and if I did how the hell would any attachment reach the bolt? I may have to cut my allen off to put it in the chuck of my drill just to break it free, or is there a trick that someone has used out there. I want to do this myself but am tempted to give it to my indy in town. I guess this is why the Haynes manual gives this job a 4 out of 5 wrenches



I put ina new set of springs and damper tubes in my last bike, 2003 Sportster. The trick is to get a long shank allen socket. It's definitely a case of needing the right tool for the job. *Maybe* you can get lucky and Sears might have it. You could also probably get a long allen key and use the right size wrench or adjustable wrench. But the allen socket is best as you could use a ratchet or impact wrench.
In any case, I didn't need an impact wrench. The torquewasn't a problem, it's more of an issue of the damper assembly inside turning with the screw. I believe the impact wrench just does it with sudden bursts and makes it easier. Just in case, I lightly wacked my ratchet handle with a hammer to jolt it instead of applying even pressure as my hand would do. There's probably a better way of doing it, but I had both tubes apart competely and reassembled using this technique.
I'll be showing my bad memory here but do you have to take the lower assembly apart to replace that seal? I just can't remember but I thought you could do it with the tubes out of the trees, take the dust cover off, remove the clip and dig the seal out, drive the new seal in, replace the clip and dust cover, all done. I was replacing springs and stuff so I HAD to take everything apart but just curious if you could avoid that mess. Good luck!
Kevin
In any case, I didn't need an impact wrench. The torquewasn't a problem, it's more of an issue of the damper assembly inside turning with the screw. I believe the impact wrench just does it with sudden bursts and makes it easier. Just in case, I lightly wacked my ratchet handle with a hammer to jolt it instead of applying even pressure as my hand would do. There's probably a better way of doing it, but I had both tubes apart competely and reassembled using this technique.
I'll be showing my bad memory here but do you have to take the lower assembly apart to replace that seal? I just can't remember but I thought you could do it with the tubes out of the trees, take the dust cover off, remove the clip and dig the seal out, drive the new seal in, replace the clip and dust cover, all done. I was replacing springs and stuff so I HAD to take everything apart but just curious if you could avoid that mess. Good luck!
Kevin
ORIGINAL: JSW
I'm stuck....Got the manual (official and Haynes). But I can't get the damn lower slider apart. The allen bolt is a freakin doousy[:@][:@]. I can't get enough torque on my Hex wrench to budge it, I don't havea impact wrench, and if I did how the hell would any attachment reach the bolt? I may have to cut my allen off to put it in the chuck of my drill just to break it free, or is there a trick that someone has used out there. I want to do this myself but am tempted to give it to my indy in town. I guess this is why the Haynes manual gives this job a 4 out of 5 wrenches
I'm stuck....Got the manual (official and Haynes). But I can't get the damn lower slider apart. The allen bolt is a freakin doousy[:@][:@]. I can't get enough torque on my Hex wrench to budge it, I don't havea impact wrench, and if I did how the hell would any attachment reach the bolt? I may have to cut my allen off to put it in the chuck of my drill just to break it free, or is there a trick that someone has used out there. I want to do this myself but am tempted to give it to my indy in town. I guess this is why the Haynes manual gives this job a 4 out of 5 wrenches

Mine, I really had to beat it out with an impact. It was real tite.
Kevin is probably right in his posting. May not even need to go this far.
It is too late for me to care to think it out. Kevin is usually right on target.
Picture of the tool I built:


mud
YEA YOU NEED TO MAKE A LONG REACH ALLEN...ITS 6MM....AND YOU MIGHT NEED AN IMPAC GUN..THEY SET THEM VERY TIGHT FROM THE FACTORY.THE BEST WAY IS DROP THE HOLE TUBE OUT OF THE TREES AND DO IT ON THE BENCH.NOW YOU CAN TURN THE FORK UPSIDE DOWN AND WORK ON IT LIKE THAT..GOOD LUCK
Thanks for the input guys. If Kevin is right about not removing the sliders I'll be quite happy. Mud I was going to do that with my allen but my crappy hacksaw wasn't doing it.
I might try to pry that seal out. I guess it won't matter if I mess with the seal. I just want to be able to pack that new seal in without problems. I'm right at that point now. I've got the dust seal and retainer ring out. I'm dropping progressives in also.
I might try to pry that seal out. I guess it won't matter if I mess with the seal. I just want to be able to pack that new seal in without problems. I'm right at that point now. I've got the dust seal and retainer ring out. I'm dropping progressives in also.
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To replace the fork seals you do not need to remove anything but the tubes from the triple tree,after removing the wheel and brake disk.All you need is a piece of PVC pipe with an inside diameter large enough to fit over your fork tube amd long enough to extend beyond the end by a foot or two,and a bottle jack and a few blocks of wood.
After you remove the tube,remove the dust cover and spring clip.Extend the tube to the longest position and fill the fork tube with any clean motor oil you have on hand.Replace the end bolt cap.Now place the tube on the garage floor and the bottle jack on a block of wood and jack against the garage wall OR a car tire or whatever you can rig up.You want to compress the tube enough to where the oil forces the seal out of its bore.You will need to put some plastic under it as it can become real messy,but you wont damage the bore by digging it out with a scrwdriver.Once you get it out enough you can grab it with a pair of pliers.
Dump out the oil and clean the seal area with a paper towel.Oil the seal and placeit over the slider and align it with the tube.Put the PVC pipe you have and slide it up and down to seat the seal in the bore of the fork tube.You may need totap it with a mallet to get it going.Once its far enough replace the snap ring and do the next one.Check the owners manual and fill with the proper amount ofoil once you reinstall it into the triple tree and replace the cap.
Good luck
After you remove the tube,remove the dust cover and spring clip.Extend the tube to the longest position and fill the fork tube with any clean motor oil you have on hand.Replace the end bolt cap.Now place the tube on the garage floor and the bottle jack on a block of wood and jack against the garage wall OR a car tire or whatever you can rig up.You want to compress the tube enough to where the oil forces the seal out of its bore.You will need to put some plastic under it as it can become real messy,but you wont damage the bore by digging it out with a scrwdriver.Once you get it out enough you can grab it with a pair of pliers.
Dump out the oil and clean the seal area with a paper towel.Oil the seal and placeit over the slider and align it with the tube.Put the PVC pipe you have and slide it up and down to seat the seal in the bore of the fork tube.You may need totap it with a mallet to get it going.Once its far enough replace the snap ring and do the next one.Check the owners manual and fill with the proper amount ofoil once you reinstall it into the triple tree and replace the cap.
Good luck
I hooked a boxed end wrench over my allen wrench and used that. Leaving the forks assembled the spring pressure will help hold the dampner valve in place. If you decide to dig the seal out be VERY careful, just the slightest scratch and leaky seal. The only cure at that point is replace tube, and you will have to take it apart then.



