Stroker for my 93 FLHS
#1
#2
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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A real stroker is an engine that has a longer stroke than stock. It involves changing the crankshaft and cylinders among other things. The displacement is increased due to the longer stroke. A longer stroke engine has a lower redline but produces a lot more torque in the low to mid rpm's. They are costly especially if you have to pay someone to do the work.
A big bore kit is substantially cheaper and involves larger Pistons, cylinders etc. Usually the stock crankshaft is reused and is sometimes rebalanced but not always. The increased displacement is due to the larger bore size. While more expensive than a good stage 1 or bolt on kit, it nets a lot of bang for the buck.
A cheaper way to go but you might want to try is a stage one kit. There are many options to do this and your results may vary depending on your components chosen. These modifications are usually very easy for the do it yourself dr but it would not hurt to get it professionally done if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. Here is what I put on my 95 heritage Softail classic.
Andrews EV-13 cam $119.95
Dynojet Thunderslide with Jet Kit 8708 $128.42
Crane Cams Time Saver Adjustable Push Rods 4-0030 $126.72
Dynatek 1009002 8 pin to 7 pin adapter $25.95
Dynatek 2000P DD2000-HD2EP ignition module $145
Crane Cams big axle lifters 3-2050. set of four for $189.95
Crane Cams cam bearing 7-0400 $15.51
Cometic Cam Gasket Service Kit C9624F $19.04
Cometic EST Top End Gasket Kit w/.030" Head $87.39
Screaming Eagle Air Cleaner Kit (Carbureted Evo) 295433-99B $127.96
New set of stock rings
Milled Heads .025"
A big bore kit is substantially cheaper and involves larger Pistons, cylinders etc. Usually the stock crankshaft is reused and is sometimes rebalanced but not always. The increased displacement is due to the larger bore size. While more expensive than a good stage 1 or bolt on kit, it nets a lot of bang for the buck.
A cheaper way to go but you might want to try is a stage one kit. There are many options to do this and your results may vary depending on your components chosen. These modifications are usually very easy for the do it yourself dr but it would not hurt to get it professionally done if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. Here is what I put on my 95 heritage Softail classic.
Andrews EV-13 cam $119.95
Dynojet Thunderslide with Jet Kit 8708 $128.42
Crane Cams Time Saver Adjustable Push Rods 4-0030 $126.72
Dynatek 1009002 8 pin to 7 pin adapter $25.95
Dynatek 2000P DD2000-HD2EP ignition module $145
Crane Cams big axle lifters 3-2050. set of four for $189.95
Crane Cams cam bearing 7-0400 $15.51
Cometic Cam Gasket Service Kit C9624F $19.04
Cometic EST Top End Gasket Kit w/.030" Head $87.39
Screaming Eagle Air Cleaner Kit (Carbureted Evo) 295433-99B $127.96
New set of stock rings
Milled Heads .025"
Last edited by Prot; 09-22-2014 at 02:14 PM.
#3
If your dead set on the 96" I would look into a "crate" motor. To achieve 96" you will have to bore the stock cases in result making something that wasn't very strong weaker.
For the type of riding you do an 89" motor will have plenty of power to make your helmet smile and the torque will (with proper cam/head work/fuel) pull the load very sufficiently.
If the current motor is all stock and your not looking to spend a ton. Raise compression slightly, mild head work, carb work, and a cam that will work good for a "heavy" bike.
For the type of riding you do an 89" motor will have plenty of power to make your helmet smile and the torque will (with proper cam/head work/fuel) pull the load very sufficiently.
If the current motor is all stock and your not looking to spend a ton. Raise compression slightly, mild head work, carb work, and a cam that will work good for a "heavy" bike.
#4
Join Date: Jan 2011
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If your dead set on the 96" I would look into a "crate" motor. To achieve 96" you will have to bore the stock cases in result making something that wasn't very strong weaker.
For the type of riding you do an 89" motor will have plenty of power to make your helmet smile and the torque will (with proper cam/head work/fuel) pull the load very sufficiently.
If the current motor is all stock and your not looking to spend a ton. Raise compression slightly, mild head work, carb work, and a cam that will work good for a "heavy" bike.
For the type of riding you do an 89" motor will have plenty of power to make your helmet smile and the torque will (with proper cam/head work/fuel) pull the load very sufficiently.
If the current motor is all stock and your not looking to spend a ton. Raise compression slightly, mild head work, carb work, and a cam that will work good for a "heavy" bike.
#5
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
Posts: 20,999
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If your dead set on the 96" I would look into a "crate" motor. To achieve 96" you will have to bore the stock cases in result making something that wasn't very strong weaker.
For the type of riding you do an 89" motor will have plenty of power to make your helmet smile and the torque will (with proper cam/head work/fuel) pull the load very sufficiently.
If the current motor is all stock and your not looking to spend a ton. Raise compression slightly, mild head work, carb work, and a cam that will work good for a "heavy" bike.
For the type of riding you do an 89" motor will have plenty of power to make your helmet smile and the torque will (with proper cam/head work/fuel) pull the load very sufficiently.
If the current motor is all stock and your not looking to spend a ton. Raise compression slightly, mild head work, carb work, and a cam that will work good for a "heavy" bike.
#6
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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Ignore the nay-sayers, a stroker kit can be done using the stock jugs and heads is the most fun you can have with your clothes on.......its way cheaper than buying a 96 crate motor if you find the right mechanic and its still a Harley motor once its done...if my bike ever needs the crank doing I will put a stroker kit in it.
#7
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#8
I had my original motor rebuilt with a stroker kit to 89". Well I called it a 90" as it was also rebored +.020! My builder told me quite a few interesting things, such as the big end often goes out of round. He rebuilt the original one into the new flywheels, but honed it to make them round and used over-size rollers. With mild head porting and a Crane cam it was quite something! Just riding it away from his shop the first time I hadn't got into top gear before I was grinning like a Cheshire cat.
As for a 96" the stock cases are unlikely to take boring out, without the risk of trouble down the line. Evos are not Twinkies with monster thick cases. I looked into boring mine out at a later stage, but costing new cases plus all the other work I settled on a new motor, hence my S&S 107". The 89"/90" was fine two-up, but the 107" is quite something else!
As for a 96" the stock cases are unlikely to take boring out, without the risk of trouble down the line. Evos are not Twinkies with monster thick cases. I looked into boring mine out at a later stage, but costing new cases plus all the other work I settled on a new motor, hence my S&S 107". The 89"/90" was fine two-up, but the 107" is quite something else!
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