88 to 95 kit tech advice needed
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 4
From: NC
88 to 95 kit tech advice needed
I have a 2006 efi street bob with a 88 twin cam. I am thinking of bolting in a 95 big bore with some wiseco pistons. I understand the need of a properly tuned ecm so we can skip that part and intake, pipes as well. I already have that stuff. My question is it worth it to bolt in a 95 kit with the stock cams,and stock heads?? If so can I use the 10 to 1 kit or do I have to use the 9 to 1 kit?? I dont want the bike to be unrideable at the bottom end. I also dont want it to get hot quickly in traffic.So I may be stuck with the low comp choice. I just want it to have more torque across the board. All ifo provided would be greatly appreciated.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
i ride with the 26 cam and it was a good move, but as any power upgrade it wasn't enough. I would say save your money and do a big bore and cam at the same time. lots of guys say go with the after markets vs. screamin eagle for more power but, if you go w/ a SE street leagle kit the compression wont be to high and your bike with stay rideable like your want good luck with your build and welcome to being broke going after the speed!!!
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 40
From: Chester NY
Yup, like others said..Cam only now or just wait until you can afford the whole package. If you buy a whole package with good ported heads you wont need to buy things tince or have to tune 2 times either.
By the way a good 98(or95) inch build should run cooler when properly tuned over a stock motor. Cam timing, headwork and tune play a big part of that.
By the way a good 98(or95) inch build should run cooler when properly tuned over a stock motor. Cam timing, headwork and tune play a big part of that.
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 4
From: NC
cams
I appreciate the advice.. I believe I will go with a 9 to 1 95 inch Wiseco kit then and maybe the andrews cams with a gear drive. I only want to spend the $$ once and really dont want any down time for later upgrades so I will do it all at once. Should save some cash doing the work myself. Thanks Guys. I love the bike, but I have to say I cant afford the HD Genuine parts so aftermarket is for me.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth TX
A nice running 95 inch is great. I have a 98 inch going together today with the andrews 26 cam. With the Andrews N conversion kit as he had a bad pump and plate. Stock heads PC tune and true duals. Will post up the sheet if you are intrested to see how it does??
Trending Topics
Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,084
Likes: 829
I appreciate the advice.. I believe I will go with a 9 to 1 95 inch Wiseco kit then and maybe the andrews cams with a gear drive. I only want to spend the $$ once and really dont want any down time for later upgrades so I will do it all at once. Should save some cash doing the work myself. Thanks Guys. I love the bike, but I have to say I cant afford the HD Genuine parts so aftermarket is for me.
Scott
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 234
Likes: 1
Parts eeter, what side of your mouth were you holding your tongue when you asked this question? I ask almost the exact thing on 7-30-09 and didn't get a single response.......now my feelings are hurt and my wife's in a bad mood because I haven't ordered any parts yet and the scoot ain't in repair so she ain't ride'n so I ain't ride'n if ya know what I mean! Man things can go south so fast...................
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 817
I went the same route, more or less on my 99 @ 42K. I started out thinking "just cams to get rid of the chain tensioners", and decided that I'd rather do it all at once and be done with it. I already had the older non street legal SE pipes, and a Ness "Big Sucker" on the bike.
Had the Jugs bored out from 3.75" to 3.875"
Had the Heads ported and polished with Valves recut
Installed 10.25:1 Cast pistons
Installed Andrews Gear Cam Drive
Installed Andrews 54 Cams
Installed Jim's Hydrosolid Lifters
Installed Screamin Eagle adjustable pushrods
Installed Power Commander III
In addition to the 5 angle valve job & porting and polishing, I teardropped the valve guides, and relieved about .050" from the end of the guide to increase clearances. I also installed an Andrews high lift spring kit as it was marginal as to if the stock springs would work.
Are you doing the work yourself? If you are doing the cams, have you looked into what tools you need? I have the tools for the job on a '99 FLHTCI, but I don't know if they are the same. I also have a 3 ton arbor press that worked fine for pressing the cams and bearings into the cam support plate.
I would also recommend against using the set of adjustable push rods I used. I bought the set that came with the covers for ~ $140; but the rods are not very user friendly. The amount of flats on the cheaper push rod is 4 instead of 6 and that made adjusting them a bit tricky. In retrospect I should have bought the better Andrews ones, and the covers as required.
I don't know your riding style or mission profile for your bike. I can outline why I did mine the way I did, and will do so.
I have a bagger, and was not looking to do "bar to bar" wide open throttle runs. I wanted a beefier touring bike, and I wanted to correct the BS plastic cam tensioner shoe issue; as well as replace the crappy INA inner cam bearings with the better Torrington ones. I also wanted more low end torque to get the bagger moving, and am willing to give up some of the horsepower numbers to get it. I also didn't want my MPG to vanish.
I spoke to Andrews and lots of people I know with more knowledge about this than me and followed their advice.
1. Stock size valves are fine. Great big oversized valves are great for racing engines that are going to live at high RPM's.
2. I went with a cam that Andrews said would work well at lower rpm. I don't see riding the bagger at more than 3700rpm (except between shifts of course), so a cam that makes a ton of horsepower between 3800 to 7500 rpm was not what I needed.
3. I kept the ports relatively small. I was told that smaller ports that flow high numbers work best for low end torque. Big ports are better for higher RPM's, but I was not building a race motor.
4. I brought up the compression by using the cast 10.25:1 pistons. Cast is fine in my application, forged would be for a much higher revving engine where weight is a bigger concern (although if I was doing a stroker i might go forged). I didn't install compression releases as the static compression ratio was around 9.98:1 and they shouldn't be required. It wouldn't hurt to have them, but it was an unnecessary expense IMHO.
5. I have fuel injection, and had to install a Power Commander III. I ordered it from FuelMoto, and they preloaded it with a map based on what I was doing to the bike. I had the bike dyno'd and came up with 86hp & 100 Tq. I can tell you that going into 3rd gear and twisting it up to ~ 5800rpm happens really quickly with the bike pulling like a freight train. I can hit 95mph in 3rd before dropping it back to reasonable speeds (gotta love the toll booth, Illinois' legal drag strip
)
I did not do the Baisley spring, but I have since purchased it and will put it in one of these days. I'm not having issues, but I just get a bit freaked out looking at the oil pressure gauge sitting just over 0 when I'm sitting at a light on a hot bike.
Had the Jugs bored out from 3.75" to 3.875"
Had the Heads ported and polished with Valves recut
Installed 10.25:1 Cast pistons
Installed Andrews Gear Cam Drive
Installed Andrews 54 Cams
Installed Jim's Hydrosolid Lifters
Installed Screamin Eagle adjustable pushrods
Installed Power Commander III
In addition to the 5 angle valve job & porting and polishing, I teardropped the valve guides, and relieved about .050" from the end of the guide to increase clearances. I also installed an Andrews high lift spring kit as it was marginal as to if the stock springs would work.
Are you doing the work yourself? If you are doing the cams, have you looked into what tools you need? I have the tools for the job on a '99 FLHTCI, but I don't know if they are the same. I also have a 3 ton arbor press that worked fine for pressing the cams and bearings into the cam support plate.
I would also recommend against using the set of adjustable push rods I used. I bought the set that came with the covers for ~ $140; but the rods are not very user friendly. The amount of flats on the cheaper push rod is 4 instead of 6 and that made adjusting them a bit tricky. In retrospect I should have bought the better Andrews ones, and the covers as required.
I don't know your riding style or mission profile for your bike. I can outline why I did mine the way I did, and will do so.
I have a bagger, and was not looking to do "bar to bar" wide open throttle runs. I wanted a beefier touring bike, and I wanted to correct the BS plastic cam tensioner shoe issue; as well as replace the crappy INA inner cam bearings with the better Torrington ones. I also wanted more low end torque to get the bagger moving, and am willing to give up some of the horsepower numbers to get it. I also didn't want my MPG to vanish.
I spoke to Andrews and lots of people I know with more knowledge about this than me and followed their advice.
1. Stock size valves are fine. Great big oversized valves are great for racing engines that are going to live at high RPM's.
2. I went with a cam that Andrews said would work well at lower rpm. I don't see riding the bagger at more than 3700rpm (except between shifts of course), so a cam that makes a ton of horsepower between 3800 to 7500 rpm was not what I needed.
3. I kept the ports relatively small. I was told that smaller ports that flow high numbers work best for low end torque. Big ports are better for higher RPM's, but I was not building a race motor.
4. I brought up the compression by using the cast 10.25:1 pistons. Cast is fine in my application, forged would be for a much higher revving engine where weight is a bigger concern (although if I was doing a stroker i might go forged). I didn't install compression releases as the static compression ratio was around 9.98:1 and they shouldn't be required. It wouldn't hurt to have them, but it was an unnecessary expense IMHO.
5. I have fuel injection, and had to install a Power Commander III. I ordered it from FuelMoto, and they preloaded it with a map based on what I was doing to the bike. I had the bike dyno'd and came up with 86hp & 100 Tq. I can tell you that going into 3rd gear and twisting it up to ~ 5800rpm happens really quickly with the bike pulling like a freight train. I can hit 95mph in 3rd before dropping it back to reasonable speeds (gotta love the toll booth, Illinois' legal drag strip
)I did not do the Baisley spring, but I have since purchased it and will put it in one of these days. I'm not having issues, but I just get a bit freaked out looking at the oil pressure gauge sitting just over 0 when I'm sitting at a light on a hot bike.