If it's a stock carb, Harley sells just the gasket. Always been available at any parts supplier. The rubber ring seal is good for maybe a couple of removals and then must be replaced.
When the gasket compresses to seal the bowl to the carb it squishes / squeezes the rubber gasket flattening it slighly, and the compressing of the rubber will make it a tad bit larger when removed. The removal can also take a bit of a tug, pulling it off, and it'll stretch.
I would recommend you put an inline filter to trap debris BEFORE it enters the carb.
Worst Case Scenario:
Debris collecting in the float causes the float needle seat to become damaged and can hang up the valve, flooding your carb. In the worst case it'll flood directly into the manifold and then into the cylinders. This can get into the oil and dilute it. It could also collect and explode.
There is an overflow tube connected to the float to to stop this issue if it's minor, and the tube hasn't been plugged by debris. It's supposed to drain under the bike but can get plugged. That combination condition then allows the overflow into the manifold rather than draining under the bike.
But most importantly is for you to drain your tank almost empty. You want to take off the tank valve, which allows you to see the tank's filters condition. Then allow the last bit to drain into a glass jar to see the debris and the amount of concentration. Older bikes may have an issue with the tank's lining (paint) flaking away from the tank. Once you take off the valve and collect the sediment you will be able to identify how badly the tank is contaminated. You can also see how contaminated the filter on the petcock (valve) is looking.
I use a $2 inline clear filter between the petcock and the tank. Be certain it is a good size in order to not slow gas flow.
2014 Electra Glide Ultra Classic FLHTCU / Birch White & Midnight Pearl / Bought New 02/13/15
SOLD 03/23/15 1986 FLTC Tour Glide Classic EV27/9.6:1 K&B Hypereutectic/S&S Shorty E/Crane Hi4e/167k