Power Vision Information Thread
#8822
#8823
Does anyone know if certain cal strategies use different PE settings. I read up a little on this part of the tune and someone hinted that different cals and different combos would have different settings. But, I couldn't find anything that got specific.
I got a tune from a supporting forum vendor. The PE Enable RPM was set at 6500 RPM from the vendor, which leads me to believe that they pretty much disabled PE from being a player in this tune. I had another another issue with the cal they sent so needless to say I've lost some faith in what they tell me.
I would like a better understanding of why they did that and if it needs correcting.
Thanks
I got a tune from a supporting forum vendor. The PE Enable RPM was set at 6500 RPM from the vendor, which leads me to believe that they pretty much disabled PE from being a player in this tune. I had another another issue with the cal they sent so needless to say I've lost some faith in what they tell me.
I would like a better understanding of why they did that and if it needs correcting.
Thanks
#8824
#8825
I did cams, andrews 48, last month and today the weather was good enough to get out and do some auto tune runs.
I have a few question for you all.
While doing a auto run,being in the green hits data log screen, I never get any hits in the first 2 collums. Why is that?
After doing a AT run and finished, i get a screen saying VE values over 125 were found.127.5 is the absolute maxium allowed. Should I scale or cap these values?
Iv had this PV for a few years,used on 2 bikes and have done alot of AT runs. The PV seams to run alot slower then it used to.Takes longer to load a tune, flash the ecu. Has anyone else have thier PV running slow?
I have a few question for you all.
While doing a auto run,being in the green hits data log screen, I never get any hits in the first 2 collums. Why is that?
After doing a AT run and finished, i get a screen saying VE values over 125 were found.127.5 is the absolute maxium allowed. Should I scale or cap these values?
Iv had this PV for a few years,used on 2 bikes and have done alot of AT runs. The PV seams to run alot slower then it used to.Takes longer to load a tune, flash the ecu. Has anyone else have thier PV running slow?
#8826
#8827
I tried to contact Jame Long at Fuelmoto to have him assess my tune based on some issues I am having although not even sure the two are related. Unlike Jamie, he has not responded.....is Jame still with Fuelmoto? If not, who is the contact to get assistance with custom tunes for PowerVision.
Thanks for the help in advance....
Thanks for the help in advance....
#8829
"PE" in the world of Delphi EFI tuning stands for "Power Enrichment". that is the actual design of the feature and auto makers use it extensively to provide max power at WOT under load while maintaining max economy at part throttle / lighter load. However, there are many more parameters that go with this setting - such as "PE vs RPM", which is a table that allows one to tune the amount of added fuel under WOT and specific rpm ranges. There is more to it, but I'll keep it short and end here. Google for more or go to the HPTuners forum.
What we get in HD's iteration of Delphi EFI is a very limited type of PE and a unique use case. It is used, as mentioned, as a "temperature control" for sustained WOT. So it is a 'fuel enrichment vs time' type of control. I have played with this setting extensively, logged ride data, and over the course of say 200+ tuning sessions- my end result is, it does not add any value if your VE's are dialed in and your AFR table is set up correctly.
That said- Some may be running really lean AFR tables (14+), or, have VE's leaner than optimal at roll-on (2500-rm and up, 70kpa and up) and WOT (90kpa and up, 1000rpm and up). In that case, having PE enable at 3000 and kick in when you hit 60% throttle could perceivably help with felt power by richening up your fuel under acceleration. I tested this with a leaner factory tune and some of the (lame canned) stage1 tunes that are in the PV's database. You can feel more power by having PE kick in early to add fuel, if the engine wants more fuel to make more power.
But - this would not be the best way to handle it and it would be sort of a crutch on a non-optimal tune. In short I'd leave it the way it was set at factory, essentially disabled. this feature is unfortunately too limited to be useful. get the bike tuned properly for performance and make sure you are seeing more performance oriented AFR values at heavier throttle under load - e.g. 12.5:1 plus or minus depending on your bike, etc. - Also, optimizing spark advance tables will go a LONG way to adding more snap and pep - stock and stange 1 tunes from HD, PV, etc are always very tame in the off-the-line and roll-on areas. Unfortunately this is not easy to self tune with the PV and takes some experience with examining the ride log data. But I digress..
There may be other view on use of PE - this is just my opinion based on my experience with it.
For consideration:
Most guys are in this thread and buy a tuner device because their bike feels a bit softer or pokier than it should be. We do the "typical" changes to a new bike - intake, pipes, tuner, maybe a set of cams, and of course a tuner device. And well, it's not a really big performance improvement for the $$$ spent. What is important to know is that your 2007 and newer Softail/Dyna comes from the factory with overly-tall drive belt pulleys. Solely for EPA and Fed noise requirements. these tall pulleys make the bike slow- sort of like trying to pedal off on a mountain bike stuck in 3rd gear.
Change those pulleys to 30f/68r (touring bikes) or 30f/70r (town bikes), and you'll literally crap a gold bar next time you ride your bike- without losing any mpg except for your now-happier wrist - By optimizing the drive ratio 9%, and getting your bike back to "pre 2007" status, it is the #1 best power gain improvement you can do to your bike. And you use your same drive belt so no worries there.
What we get in HD's iteration of Delphi EFI is a very limited type of PE and a unique use case. It is used, as mentioned, as a "temperature control" for sustained WOT. So it is a 'fuel enrichment vs time' type of control. I have played with this setting extensively, logged ride data, and over the course of say 200+ tuning sessions- my end result is, it does not add any value if your VE's are dialed in and your AFR table is set up correctly.
That said- Some may be running really lean AFR tables (14+), or, have VE's leaner than optimal at roll-on (2500-rm and up, 70kpa and up) and WOT (90kpa and up, 1000rpm and up). In that case, having PE enable at 3000 and kick in when you hit 60% throttle could perceivably help with felt power by richening up your fuel under acceleration. I tested this with a leaner factory tune and some of the (lame canned) stage1 tunes that are in the PV's database. You can feel more power by having PE kick in early to add fuel, if the engine wants more fuel to make more power.
But - this would not be the best way to handle it and it would be sort of a crutch on a non-optimal tune. In short I'd leave it the way it was set at factory, essentially disabled. this feature is unfortunately too limited to be useful. get the bike tuned properly for performance and make sure you are seeing more performance oriented AFR values at heavier throttle under load - e.g. 12.5:1 plus or minus depending on your bike, etc. - Also, optimizing spark advance tables will go a LONG way to adding more snap and pep - stock and stange 1 tunes from HD, PV, etc are always very tame in the off-the-line and roll-on areas. Unfortunately this is not easy to self tune with the PV and takes some experience with examining the ride log data. But I digress..
There may be other view on use of PE - this is just my opinion based on my experience with it.
For consideration:
Most guys are in this thread and buy a tuner device because their bike feels a bit softer or pokier than it should be. We do the "typical" changes to a new bike - intake, pipes, tuner, maybe a set of cams, and of course a tuner device. And well, it's not a really big performance improvement for the $$$ spent. What is important to know is that your 2007 and newer Softail/Dyna comes from the factory with overly-tall drive belt pulleys. Solely for EPA and Fed noise requirements. these tall pulleys make the bike slow- sort of like trying to pedal off on a mountain bike stuck in 3rd gear.
Change those pulleys to 30f/68r (touring bikes) or 30f/70r (town bikes), and you'll literally crap a gold bar next time you ride your bike- without losing any mpg except for your now-happier wrist - By optimizing the drive ratio 9%, and getting your bike back to "pre 2007" status, it is the #1 best power gain improvement you can do to your bike. And you use your same drive belt so no worries there.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 01-25-2017 at 09:01 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by LA_Dog:
slippin_jimmy (02-25-2019),
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#8830