Hello all and here is my first post! I recently purchased a 15 roadglide. I'm in the middle of a bar swap (16" reapers from wild1). I need to change all of my lines obviously. I just did so last night and had some questions about the hydraulic clutch cable. I put the new one on and only lost a few drops of oil. I plan to attach the mighty vac and bleed the system. Do I need to adjust the clutch after this procedure? Is there anything else I should know in regards to this process? The bike only has 700m on it so everything is still brand new really. I don't have any experience with a hydraulic clutch and wanted to be sure I was following protocol. Thanks! P.S I've been looking all over the net for a tutorial for clutch adjustment for the newer models. All I see is the older cable style clutch adjustment videos. Maybe there is a link that is specific to the 15 rushmore bikes?

 

There is no clutch adjustment on these hydraulic clutches like before (the nut and screw behind the derby cover)

Mighty vac at the bleeder, add fluid at MC. once good, pump several time. Repeat vacuum some more, pump several time. Then pressure/pump bleed like normal.

Be sure to fill master cylinder to the "Full" mark (inside of the cylinder on the boss) no higher. As your clutch wears over time the fluid level will rise. Opposite of your brake MC.

Be sure MC is level when filling (unbolt from bar if needed)

 

Can't help with the bleeding procedure, haven't gotten a shop manual yet for the '15. But I would love to see picture of the new bars when you get it done! I waffling between a few options for bars on my RG.

 

Thanks for the thorough reply JT. That sounds pretty easy. So is there ever a need to do adjustments to the clutch or does it basically wear down until you need a new one?

 

Einan, I'd be happy to post a pic once its done. Its been a long road to getting these done. I've encountered a few unexpected glitches along the way but have been able to overcome them all. One reason I chose the reapers was because supposedly they have a little radius built into the corners. I had yaffe monkey bars on my last bike and wiring through the pointy portion of the bar was damn near impossible. Well the ones from wild1 weren't any easier. If I had of known they would have still been tough I would have just went with some radical styled bars with crazy points on them because if the struggle was still going to be there might as well have some crazy looking bars in the end. These still look good but they are mildly styled as compared to others imo. Its still going to be bad to the bone. I'm almost done with the project so I will post some pics.

 

oh, blah.. Patience and technique. Can easily be the hardest part, yes, but it's not as bad as all that.

 

It's only my second time doing bars so yeah I'm probably struggling unnecessarily due to my own lack of technique.

 

Clutch Bleed procedure.