Hi there.

I'm having problems with my clutch hand and need to ask a couple of questions from anybody who knows about the hydraulic clutch for a Dyna, and a WG specifically.

I previously installed the H-D EZ pull unit like on the '06 Dyna models, and that was pretty easy and works good, but I'm about to add a BB kit, and am afraid the standard clutch with lighter diaphram spring won't hold the additional power (~100ft/lb) or at least it will promote faster wear on the clutch.

I looked up the hydraulic clutch in the '06 catalog, and of course they don't have a complete kit listed for a Dyna at all. It looks like you have to put your own parts together "a al carte" as they say.

Q1) The pictures of kits show a new clutch throw rod. I don't see a throw rod listed separately for a Dyna. Is there one, or do I reuse the original? What part number would it be?

Q2) The catalog lists only a single part for the hydraulic line. Like clutch cables, I suspect each bike has a different length from hydraulic master cylinder to tranny cover. With higher handlebars than most other bikes, how do I know I will get a long enough line, and/or for others, maybe what do you do with the extra line? Does H-D provide compression fittings or something else to let you cut the line to a given length? I don't see any other lengths listed.

Q3) Would I be able to use the hydraulic clutch with heavier duty clutch kits like the SE version, Barnett, extra plates, etc. and retain any benefit of it also providing a reduced effort on a clutch that holds more power?

Q4) Turning Q3 around to a different question. Do "heavier duty clutches" all rely on heavier spring or diaghram rates, or do some of them rely on better friction materials and/or better surface area to get the job done?

Q5) Given my objectives of holding more power and unfortunately having less hand to do the job, what would you recommend?

Oh yes, I almost forgot. I commute and ride a lot on busy city streets in stop and go traffic, so I do a lot of shifting. I don't drag race. I do want to be able to use my new torque in the low and mid range and plan on performing mild middle-gear shifts much more than slipping the clutch under power from dead-stop. Any high power throttle rolls will be on rural roads in the curves and in the mountain passes.[sm=smiley29.gif]

Thanks for any help you can give. Given the price of this option, I don't want to screw up.

 

I too have clutch hand/arm problems. Standard clutch was too much after a day's riding. Since I have done most of my riding with a rocker or suicide clutch I changed my Sloptail over to a suicide clutch and hand shift. I tried a bud's hydraulic clutch and didn't find it to be significantly easier than the stock setup. With a heavy duty spring, I don't think you'd gain anything in the way of easier pull.

Some heavy duty clutches get their holding power from different friction plates, and/or more friction plate surface area. There are several that advertise easier pull. Might want to check out an aftermarket catalog for details.

 

This will take anything you can throw at it as far as power and do it with a clutch handle that feels like it's disconnected from the trans.. http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/hippovpc.htm Frank (Hippo) is a great guy to deal with also. He'll recommend the right unit for your application also.

 

Thanks Skip and Bill.
I'll look into these various clutch side changes. They sound cheaper than counting on a hydraulic clutch actuator to work the standard clutch, and you guys seem to think they can do it w/o requiring more lever force. That's good news.

Do you know if Hippo's setup or the other suggested plate setups can use the weaker diaphram and ramp I have, or do I need to go backwards and put the heavier diaphrams that I imagine add to pull force?

Skip, I'm curious. I don't know much about vintage bikes. What the heck is a suicide or rocker clutch?

 

I believe the AIM/VPC clutch does indeed use the weaker spring as the se spring is not needed with this setup. It works real well and there are three different units available depending on your engine and mods (HP) I also think you can retain the ramp setup you have too, Hippo would be the one to ask there. These clutches will hold high HP numbers and give you a very light pull on the lever, more so than other clutches. The principle they work on is centrifical force. The more they spin, the harder they lock up, that's why they work so well. It gives you the benefit of a very light lever with the holding force of a heavy clutch. Here's another site with that clutch http://www.aim-tamachi.com/index03.html

Only drawback is that they do not fit under all fancy derby covers. Hippo will tell you which ones they do not work with.
HippoVPC@gmail.com

The spacer may be needed with some covers for enough clearance.

 

Thanks for the extra explanation Bill.
I've got my J&P catalog out look'in at all sorts of clutch options. Confusing with all the choices.
I'll write Hippo about my particulars. These centrifical devices look like they can do the job I will need.

 

Know a lot of people who have them installed and are very happy with them. Let me know which way you go and how you like it.

 

Rocker clutch was the old original foot clutch. It was a heel & toe pedal; toe down and you were moving, heel down and your clutch was disengaged (like you pulled your hand lever in). It had a friction disc and tension spring to hold it in whatever position you wanted it.

The first suicide clutches were simply rocker clutches with worn out or removed friction discs and/or tension springs. You had to keep your foot on it, heel down, to keep the clutch disengaged. Later suicide clutches were made with pedals similar to a brake pedal, instead of the heel & toe pedal. Suicide clutches operate just like a clutch in a car or truck; to disengage the clutch, you push the pedal & hold it in place. If you're tranny is in neutral, you can let off the pedal.

One theory on the suicide name is that many of the old bobbers & chops running a suicide clutch and hand shift had no front brakes. When you came to a stop sign or light on an uphill slope, you had to be able to find neutral, so you could hold the bike on the slope with your left foot, while your right foot was on the brake. If you didn't find neutral, you were fixin' to commit suicid by either going through the intersection against the light, or falling over.

 

Skip,
Thanks for the great explanation of the terms "rocker" and "suicide" clutch. Guess I'm glad they went to hand lever versions of them these days.

I checked out the video on the AIM version of the centrifical clutch setup. Kind of an artsy video, but it showed off both how easy the hand lever can be to pull, and showed how the force is applied to the plates as RPM increase. I'd better save some bucks.