I own a 97 RK with only 29K miles on it. I noticed some difficulty with performing the clutch adjustments as it would not perform consistently so I brought into my local HD service department. They said I need a whole new clutch, whatever that entails. It's more than just clutch plates. They want $1500 to complete the job.

Does this sound normal for a bike with such few miles? As I long as I have owned it the miles on it have not been hard ones. All fluids are at level.

Is this something I can do myself?

Mark

 

Hello and welcome.
The more information provided the easier it is to provide a response.
So you have a 1997 road king, i guess factory carb., with 29,000 miles.
Any modifications ? additions of pipes, air cleaner ?
was it a race bike, repo, found in a lake, rebuilt, a parade bike, a ride like a pro rally bike ?
Reason: unless bike was abused, in an accident or something odd like the rider ways 800 pounds or is constantly doing burn-outs it is odd for the clutch to be wasted.
The clutch must be adjusted stone cold..meaning after bike has not been ridden for 12 hours...cold, asleep, dormant.
If you follow the procedure in the book it will adjust perfectly when cold...if done warm it will be off.

 

im,

Thanks for responding.

I bought this motorcycle from my brother. He bought it used from an old guy who didn't want it anymore. I am the third owner. It had less than 8,000 miles when my brother bought it and when he sold it to me it had about 17,000 miles on it. I have owned it since 2007 and I don't go on long extended road trips with it. Riding locally mostly.

It has fuel injection. Only modifications were chrome parts added including pipes. Everything is factory, related to the engine and drive train.

I own the service manual for this bike. I adjusted the clutch just the way the manual states and always when cold. After doing this it would shift great for a while and finding neutral was fairly easy. But when the engine gets warm when riding the shifting becomes more difficult and in some cases I can't shift at all. Finding neutral is harder. I would go home let it sit for the night and attempt another adjustment the next day. After a week or two of doing this I decided to take it in and have the dealership take a look at it because I figured it must be something causing this.

And this is what brings me to the forum tonight to seek advice and opinions on this. What is involved in replacing the clutch? I was told the problem could be clutch plates, which the dealership says is not uncommon and if so the repair would be about $500. After inspecting the inside they determined the problem is not just clutch plates but replacing the entire clutch mechanism including the internal drive chain??

I appreciate whatever thoughts you guys have on this.

 

Very good that you have the service manual.
Are you familiar with Ronnies Harley Davidson?
If you click the link and go to : click OEM parts (at the top), then later scroll down to and click motorcycle, then click year, click model, then click area of bike you are concerned about.
Reason: it allows you to see all the parts for the bike.
1-There is a primary chain inside cover by your left foot. That is the only chain i can relate to your response. The primary chain requires very minor adjustment after many miles..has it been adjusted? rather simple. If it is way off (loose) it could affect gear entry (neutral) slightly and could alter clutch adjustment also if super tight. Most make the mistake of putting it way too tight.
2- How does the arm look that exits the transmission shaft ? That arm has an Allen (hex) bolt on it and that arm (lever) gets loose on the splines. Lever(arm) metal is softer than the splines on transmission shaft splines. When loose that arm will not transmit the required motion to the shaft in the transmission. To be clear..when sitting on the bike..look at the foot shift lever..look at link...rod..go all the way to rear were rod ends at the arm(lever) that attaches to transmission shaft..THAT ARM will be loose..if lucky the removal of hex/allen bolt and addition of thread locker along with tight re-installation will resolve that problem..You will need an hex/allen that attaches to a socket wrench because a little hand one will be useless in order to tighten correctly..Using a very good inspection flashlight you would see tiny specs. of the shiny lever(arm) near spline area if loose. If the spline is stripped then there are other options.
3-At present, i am not thinking clutch but instead think that you have multiple simple & common problems working together to confuse things.
I would start with the FREE checks first.
1-Check lever(arm) shaft splines and tighten. I am thinking this is loose.
2-Check primary chain adjustment.
3-Then return to clutch adjustment.
Finally, i will guess that no odd transmission fluid is in the primary..If some non-motorcycle fluid was used it could cause slippage..you never mentioned slippage but instead you describe engagement so fluid should be OK and that is why i am thinking it is the linkage, shift lever(arm) at transmission spline.
Also, about the shop..Did they actually look at the bike and charge you money to look at it ? or was this a situation were they walk out to the bike with you and talk about possible solutions to your problem?
The clutch is rather rock solid on that EVO and at under 30K the replacement would be odd.
Link for Ronnies:
http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/index.htm
Let us know how it turns out.
Also note that any problems for your year and model are will documented by now and are limited in scope.
i posted a list a few days ago.

 

Here is a copy paste of the most common problems for that 97-98 year /model:
1- The cam position sensor inside the timer cone. Original melts and the goo is visible under timer cone were the wire exits (located by right foot so take a look) very easy to see with no tools..code 56 and requires lots of cranking before it will start...note a code 56 alone is triggered for any fart and the code alone is not indicative of a problem..look for the goo..reset computer by disconnecting battery cable.
If sensor is melted replace as a do it yourself for about $180 from Harley dealer or as low as $100 for new ones from EBAY but it must be the correct part number or it will not work because the cup is different for other models...simple tools for replacement
2-VERY IMPORTANT AND MANY GET FRUSTRATED AND CHANGE TO CARB. BECAUSE THEY MISSED THIS...the crank position sensor NOT cam position..the CRANK sensor located by oil filter has a wire that runs along motor and then crosses to opposite side as it goes to the computer (ECM)..There is a connector that gets loose right behind the plastic side cover (throttle side/right side), the cover under the seat. Remove side cover..The connector is black and hidden by frame tube. That connector is a push and turn connector that gets loose and causes bike to shut off or miss..PLEASE LOOK FOR THIS CONNECTOR and zip tie it several times..again many people get frustrated and the techs. do not check for it.. causes all kinds of pissed off folks. THIS IS A FREE FIX THAT COST PEOPLE HUNDREDS $$$ if they go to the dealer since the dealer will not check this and it will rarely throw a code. Several people have been helped by this advice on this forum alone.
3-your fuel lines (2) external under tank will leak fuel at swivel after about 8 years and the originals are NOT serviceable. GOODRIDGE makes HDFL005..The Goodridge lines are at least less than half the $$$ that harley charges..Google the part number as some places sell for under $150 delivered for BOTH fuel lines.
4-Inside the fuel tank..a liner piece inside the tank separates right near the fuel pump and blocks fuel passage at the sock looking filter..bike will suck piece of liner and block fuel flow..you slow down and it releases...then gets stuck again..cycle repeats..repair is simple..open top of gas tank, remove little liner piece..suck fuel out, fill again, drain, wipe inside and close it up..no parts if you are careful and mark were each screw and tiny collar came from..no parts required unless you tear the gasket.
5-The ENGINE temp. sensor is super common and causes surging since the bike gets confused between hot/cold..change out is not that difficult but up to now HARLEY is the only replacement we have seen..very odd your bike is throwing code 14 and that it would run OK?? did you wash the bike? did the bike get washed with a high pressure hose? because it would be odd for it to be running good but the sensor to be bad.
6-The ECM connectors and power commanders...The ecm sometimes has the ground pin get some corosion because the bike is exposed to a high salt content or someone is pressure washing the bike and the connector is not seated correctly.. the ground pin makes bad contact and causes weird stuff.. regarding the power commander some individuals remove the power commander before a sale and keep the rubber protective ECM boot...with no rubber boot contamination from water is very possible.
7-DO NOT USE lowering blocks at rear of bike..The swing arm at the rear does not like lowering blocks..The use of lowering blocks changes shock angle and greatly increases the likelyhood of rear swingarm cracking right at the axle bolt area.
8-Finally some report issues with the throttle body because it must be clean especially the little air bleeds and the connections should all be nice, clean and good to avoid air leaks.

 

Check your throwout bearing. This will cause the symptoms you descibe.

 

.im

I use Amsoil 20 50 for all my fluids. Engine, trans, primary.

per your question about the diagnosis at the HD shop, they said they needed two hours to investigate internally what may be causing the problem. So I assume they were thorough and opened the primary and trans. I need to pick up the estimate sheet from them for exact details

 

here it is:
clutch hub. $147
clutch shell and sprocket $394
paper friction tape. $220
pressure plate. $58
and many other misc parts

Does this sound excessive?