Clutch Adjustment
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Stage III
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
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Clutch Adjustment
Compadres -
My clutch has been engaging slightly with the lever pulled all the way in (that is, the bike pulls slightly forward with the lever pulled all the way in), and I've been having to use a little more force to shift into 3d gear than the other gears, so I adjusted the clutch per the factory manual, allowing 1/16" play between the clutch lever and ferrule. I also adjusted the primary chain per the manual and replaced the tranny fluid (w/ Mobil 1 75W90 gear lube). Sporty still pulls forward slightly when I have the lever pulled in, and it's still harder to get into 3d gear than the other gears. The clutch release point is essentially with the lever pulled all the way in, and even that doesn't fully disengage the clutch. The symptoms seem relatively minor, but bothersome enough to try to solve. Any thoughts? Should I adjust the clutch again to eliminate the free play between the lever and ferrule (eliminating all slack in the cable)? Should I tighten the primary chain (I erred on the loose side of the "field" specs, leaving the play in the chain at about 1/2")? All suggestions welcome. Thanks.
P.S. I saw the thread about the brass rivets in the clutch plates that break, so if I should consider checking for those, feel free to let me know.
My clutch has been engaging slightly with the lever pulled all the way in (that is, the bike pulls slightly forward with the lever pulled all the way in), and I've been having to use a little more force to shift into 3d gear than the other gears, so I adjusted the clutch per the factory manual, allowing 1/16" play between the clutch lever and ferrule. I also adjusted the primary chain per the manual and replaced the tranny fluid (w/ Mobil 1 75W90 gear lube). Sporty still pulls forward slightly when I have the lever pulled in, and it's still harder to get into 3d gear than the other gears. The clutch release point is essentially with the lever pulled all the way in, and even that doesn't fully disengage the clutch. The symptoms seem relatively minor, but bothersome enough to try to solve. Any thoughts? Should I adjust the clutch again to eliminate the free play between the lever and ferrule (eliminating all slack in the cable)? Should I tighten the primary chain (I erred on the loose side of the "field" specs, leaving the play in the chain at about 1/2")? All suggestions welcome. Thanks.
P.S. I saw the thread about the brass rivets in the clutch plates that break, so if I should consider checking for those, feel free to let me know.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 281
Likes: 4
From: Temecula, CA
I am one of the guys that just finished repairing my clutch due to the rivet problem, your description of the problem is just like my bike. I would recommend DO NOT ride it until that clutch can be opened up and inspected. If you followed the clutch adjustment per the manual and you are still having that problem, I would open the clutch. Is your fluid level OK? If you end up replacing the plates I reccomend the Screamin Eagle clutch, so far I like it. Whatever you do don't replace with the stock clutch again. Good Luck!
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Stage III
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thanks, PJ. I assume the fluid level is fine because I fully drained it and replaced it with a quart of Mobil 1. No signs of leaks anywhere. Admittedly, I haven't opened the clutch inspection cover to check whether the fluid level is good, and I can't see in through the primary chain inspection cover to see whether it's at the right level. If I replace the clutch, I'll keep your recommendation in mind. Thanks.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 866
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From: Houston, TX
If you didn't adjust the screw under the derby cover, you didn't adjust the clutch, you adjusted the cable. The primary chain adjustment has nothing to do with the clutch adjustment. Did I read your post incorrectly?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
That is what I was thinking. There are two adjustments involved here. One is the clutch cable adjustment, the other is the clutch adjustment. This sounds like it's the clutch that needs adjusting.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,904
Likes: 9
From: Streetsboro, Oh
I was having this same issue on my bike, but all gears were harder and it would not go in to N alot of times unless the engine was off. The clutch did not slip under power. I adjusted it till there was no end. I took it to the dealer and they said the spring plate broke, but I got lucky and the rivits did not mess up the basket or hub. I had a SE clutch installed and I love it. The SE clutch also has one more friction disc and does not have that spring plate to break. It also cost less than the OEM clutch.
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Stage III
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thanks, all. I followed the manual, adjusting the screw under the derby cover at the same time I adjusted the cable. XL50 - I'll take your recommendation into account, too, if I need a new clutch. Thanks all for your input.
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