Changing to 30T and 70T pulley?
#1
Changing to 30T and 70T pulley?
I am currently running the SE Stage 3 kit in my LO with the 259e cams and while I love the power it has from 3k-5k rpms I would really like more grunt in the lower range. I think the quickest best way to do this after reading some is to change the pulleys in order to change the gear ratio. I am wanting to change to a 30T front pulley which is easy to find. I am looking at the Andrews 30T and its about $115 which is reasonable.My problem is I can't find a 70T pulley that is not a custom(i.e. Roalnd Sands/PM etc) that costs about $500. I don't want to spend so much on a pulley because I plan to change rims in the future and will proabably get one to match then.
So questions....
1) does anyone know where to get a 70T rear pulley for a reasonable price that I can bolt on to my 2011 FB Lo?
2) Has anyone done this mod? If so, how do you like the results and how hard was the mod?
3) Did you re-calibrate the speedo and how hard was it?
I plan on using the same belt as I have read I could if I change both the front and rear to the sizes I listed. Am I missing anything? Are there other suggestions?
So questions....
1) does anyone know where to get a 70T rear pulley for a reasonable price that I can bolt on to my 2011 FB Lo?
2) Has anyone done this mod? If so, how do you like the results and how hard was the mod?
3) Did you re-calibrate the speedo and how hard was it?
I plan on using the same belt as I have read I could if I change both the front and rear to the sizes I listed. Am I missing anything? Are there other suggestions?
#2
30/70 seems like a awful big jump to me, unless you never go over 60.
I have 70T at the house I was gonna try, but it is for the wider belts. Now that I have taken apart the primary (bad stator swap, and am about to replace the final drive belt on my EG, so I now know its no big deal) I may consider doing the front sprocket instead.
I have 70T at the house I was gonna try, but it is for the wider belts. Now that I have taken apart the primary (bad stator swap, and am about to replace the final drive belt on my EG, so I now know its no big deal) I may consider doing the front sprocket instead.
#4
It seems from what I read in the other forums on here that alot of people were going to the 30/70 combo with good results. I do have a tall topend in my bike right now with the stage 3 but if you all think its too much maybe I should just do the 70T rear. The way I understand it though is if you go to the 32/70 setup then you will have to change the belt which requires tearing into the primary anyway. So what it seemed people said was if you are tearing into the primary either way then replace the 32 with the 30 and use the same belt.
Does anyone know if I can use the same belt with the 32/70 setup and where I can get a 70T rear pulley without spending a fortune. I checked Ebay but I'm not sure what is compatible. What is the exact size of the belt (1" wide or different)? Can someone tell me exactly what I will need to make this change since I obviously dont know? Thanks.
Does anyone know if I can use the same belt with the 32/70 setup and where I can get a 70T rear pulley without spending a fortune. I checked Ebay but I'm not sure what is compatible. What is the exact size of the belt (1" wide or different)? Can someone tell me exactly what I will need to make this change since I obviously dont know? Thanks.
#6
#7
I just made the swap on mine. I have a 2008 nightrain with a 200mm rear wheel. I had my stator go bad so whil eeverything was apart i decided to swap the front pulley to the 30 tooth one. i alreayd had the 70 tooth outh back.
My first impressions is wow. it launches and picks up speed like you would not believe, lots of torque and picks up speed really quick. You do go through gears fast though, you will be hitting your rev limiter often if your not careful. Only thing i dont like is that the engine is running at what it feels like really high rpm at highway speed. i spend a lot of time on the freeway doing over 80 mph. at 80 mph i am right around 3500 rpm, at 90 i am at 4000. which feels pretty high but according what i have read you can keep the engine at 5500 rpm and still be in the safe zone (i could be wrong). when i am in 6th gear doing 75mph and you twist the throttle, the bike goes from 75 to 100 in no time, with out having to down shift. I love the set up, the only thing that bothers me a little is keeping the bike at such high RPMs for a long period of time.
I used an Andrews 30tooth fron pulley, and i found a used 2006 nightrain 70tooth rear pulley on ebay. i used the stock belt size.
No issues whats so every, my speedometer was off by 10mph, but i have a thundermax which i was just able to go in the software and recalibrate it.
hope this helps.
My first impressions is wow. it launches and picks up speed like you would not believe, lots of torque and picks up speed really quick. You do go through gears fast though, you will be hitting your rev limiter often if your not careful. Only thing i dont like is that the engine is running at what it feels like really high rpm at highway speed. i spend a lot of time on the freeway doing over 80 mph. at 80 mph i am right around 3500 rpm, at 90 i am at 4000. which feels pretty high but according what i have read you can keep the engine at 5500 rpm and still be in the safe zone (i could be wrong). when i am in 6th gear doing 75mph and you twist the throttle, the bike goes from 75 to 100 in no time, with out having to down shift. I love the set up, the only thing that bothers me a little is keeping the bike at such high RPMs for a long period of time.
I used an Andrews 30tooth fron pulley, and i found a used 2006 nightrain 70tooth rear pulley on ebay. i used the stock belt size.
No issues whats so every, my speedometer was off by 10mph, but i have a thundermax which i was just able to go in the software and recalibrate it.
hope this helps.
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#8
Te gear ratio change being discussed here, going from 32/66 to 30/70, is not at all unreasonable.
It is a 13% change overall.
It is fact what I would have wanted to do on my 2014 Breakout that has the Stage 4 RACE kit on it, as that kit raises the rpm for max torque from 3000 to 4000 rpm (a 33% higher rpm!), and raises the rev limit from 5500 to 6200 (a 13% increase). A 13% increase is exactly what I would want.
BUT, I have the optional chrome Turbine wheels with the matching brake rotor and matching pulley, and I don't want to give up that pulley.
Also, I have heard that chnaging the gearing by instead increasing the size of the clutch sprocket in the primary drive is less costly, uses less labor total, and has zero impact on the speedometer. So, this is the way I now see as preferred.
But as for whetehr 13% is reasonable to do, you bet. If you are running a kit that raises the rpm rnage that the engine is comfortable in, if you do NOT make the gearing change, it is effectively the same as making the bike suffer a gearing chnage in the wrong direction, since you will routinely be spinning the engine at a higher rpm just to stay in the proper powerband.
On my 6-speed breakout, stock gearing is 2180 rpm at 60 mph, so 13% more rpm = 2463 rpm, and at 80 mph, you would be running 3276.
Jim G
It is a 13% change overall.
It is fact what I would have wanted to do on my 2014 Breakout that has the Stage 4 RACE kit on it, as that kit raises the rpm for max torque from 3000 to 4000 rpm (a 33% higher rpm!), and raises the rev limit from 5500 to 6200 (a 13% increase). A 13% increase is exactly what I would want.
BUT, I have the optional chrome Turbine wheels with the matching brake rotor and matching pulley, and I don't want to give up that pulley.
Also, I have heard that chnaging the gearing by instead increasing the size of the clutch sprocket in the primary drive is less costly, uses less labor total, and has zero impact on the speedometer. So, this is the way I now see as preferred.
But as for whetehr 13% is reasonable to do, you bet. If you are running a kit that raises the rpm rnage that the engine is comfortable in, if you do NOT make the gearing change, it is effectively the same as making the bike suffer a gearing chnage in the wrong direction, since you will routinely be spinning the engine at a higher rpm just to stay in the proper powerband.
On my 6-speed breakout, stock gearing is 2180 rpm at 60 mph, so 13% more rpm = 2463 rpm, and at 80 mph, you would be running 3276.
Jim G
#9
Te gear ratio change being discussed here, going from 32/66 to 30/70, is not at all unreasonable.
It is a 13% change overall.
It is fact what I would have wanted to do on my 2014 Breakout that has the Stage 4 RACE kit on it, as that kit raises the rpm for max torque from 3000 to 4000 rpm (a 33% higher rpm!), and raises the rev limit from 5500 to 6200 (a 13% increase). A 13% increase is exactly what I would want.
BUT, I have the optional chrome Turbine wheels with the matching brake rotor and matching pulley, and I don't want to give up that pulley.
Also, I have heard that chnaging the gearing by instead increasing the size of the clutch sprocket in the primary drive is less costly, uses less labor total, and has zero impact on the speedometer. So, this is the way I now see as preferred.
But as for whetehr 13% is reasonable to do, you bet. If you are running a kit that raises the rpm rnage that the engine is comfortable in, if you do NOT make the gearing change, it is effectively the same as making the bike suffer a gearing chnage in the wrong direction, since you will routinely be spinning the engine at a higher rpm just to stay in the proper powerband.
On my 6-speed breakout, stock gearing is 2180 rpm at 60 mph, so 13% more rpm = 2463 rpm, and at 80 mph, you would be running 3276.
Jim G
It is a 13% change overall.
It is fact what I would have wanted to do on my 2014 Breakout that has the Stage 4 RACE kit on it, as that kit raises the rpm for max torque from 3000 to 4000 rpm (a 33% higher rpm!), and raises the rev limit from 5500 to 6200 (a 13% increase). A 13% increase is exactly what I would want.
BUT, I have the optional chrome Turbine wheels with the matching brake rotor and matching pulley, and I don't want to give up that pulley.
Also, I have heard that chnaging the gearing by instead increasing the size of the clutch sprocket in the primary drive is less costly, uses less labor total, and has zero impact on the speedometer. So, this is the way I now see as preferred.
But as for whetehr 13% is reasonable to do, you bet. If you are running a kit that raises the rpm rnage that the engine is comfortable in, if you do NOT make the gearing change, it is effectively the same as making the bike suffer a gearing chnage in the wrong direction, since you will routinely be spinning the engine at a higher rpm just to stay in the proper powerband.
On my 6-speed breakout, stock gearing is 2180 rpm at 60 mph, so 13% more rpm = 2463 rpm, and at 80 mph, you would be running 3276.
Jim G
BTW another member suggested Southern Motorcycles as a source for custom pulleys- $300-ish range though, but if you're still looking they may be able to cut one that looks at home with your CVO wheels. http://www.southern-mc.com/coblsppu.html
#10
Hi Jim- wanted to resurrect this thread since I'm looking to do a 70T rear pulley swap. Did you ever find out if there is a suitable 70T HD pulley that will (mechancially speaking) fit the Breakout? I was looking at the rear pulleys for 2006 softail / dyna, 70T and 1 - 1/8" wide, seems like it may fit but still researching. For example, PN's 40306-00 and 40576-06
BTW another member suggested Southern Motorcycles as a source for custom pulleys- $300-ish range though, but if you're still looking they may be able to cut one that looks at home with your CVO wheels. http://www.southern-mc.com/coblsppu.html
BTW another member suggested Southern Motorcycles as a source for custom pulleys- $300-ish range though, but if you're still looking they may be able to cut one that looks at home with your CVO wheels. http://www.southern-mc.com/coblsppu.html
I myself am unlikely to do it because of the expenses involved (I'm retired now), and because doing something about the excessive front end dive under braking seems a higher priority, but it certainly makes good sense, and especially since the stock gearing has the engine running at only 2200 rpm at 60 mph in top gear, which is pretty low for an engine with a non-stock cam, or even one with a stock cam.
If I were to do anything at all in the future, I might go for the Rivera Primo Game Changer, which is the Rivera kit that swaps in a new smaller compensator, primary chain, and tensioner, for under $200 plus your or a shop's labor. I don't have the specs in front of me, but it gives something like a 5.9% rpm increase (1.36 to 1.44), making the cost benefit ratio pretty sensible, since both the parts and the labor are a fraction of the other more aggressive mod.
So, riders have two decent options now.
Jim G