Hi all: I just replaced my risers and needed a longer clutch cable. I ordered a new Stainless steel braided cable from the stealer thinking they would order the HD Diamondback SS cable (yes this was probably my fault for not being explicit) but instead they ordered a Magnum Shield Chromite II cable. The dealer said they would exchange it if I did not like it. It looks great and Magnum has a good reputation, but I have some questions.

1. When I installed the cable, I noticed a bit of cable stretch and had to adjust the cable three times. Is this normal?

2. Since this cable is rather thick, it tends to form larger(er) radius curves. The only place this is an issue is coming off of the handle where the cable wants to bend all the way over to the triple tree. Can the cable be forced into a smaller radius curve without worrying about kinking it? Will it stay or will it spring back over time?

3. I have noticed the cable pulls harder than the HD cable. Is this normal and should it improve with use?

Thanks for your help, Chris.

 

I have had to adjust my cable twice. As far as routing I have not had any problems with it. The pull on my seem just as easy as before. I could have to do with the tight radius your talking about. Any way here is a pic of the routing of my cable. Hope it helps.

 

I realize that my riser/handlebar setup is different than yours, but, for comparison purposes, here is my clutch cable. I have the HD braided SS Diamondback cables. Be aware that the Diamondback clutch cable is only braided from the lever to the adjuster. The Magnum clutch cable is braided from the lever to the tranny.

 

Thanks for the reply. The magnum is a replacement for the now "too short" Diamondback cable I put on last year. Personally I don't care if the braiding goes all the way to the tranny. I just can't decide if I should get the HD cable to stick with the Magnum. The HD cable seemed to pull a bit easier was was more flexible.

 

I also adjusted my clutch cable 4 times with magnum...I gues it gets longer after using it

 

My routing is identical to misbehavins, and I didnt notice any harder pull. I also never had to adjust mine after the initial installation. Is it possible one or both of the cables that touch the slack adjustment were not "seated" in the adjustment nuts?

 

I ended up routing my cable just like "Bone Doc". I also cut off the metal extension that holds the original cable slip ring, the one near the top of the down tubes. Once the touch-up paint dries I will be zip tying the adjuster there.