Ok. The first thing I would do is test the continuity of the switch itself. To do that, you'll set the meter to Ohms (the horseshoe symbol in the lower left), at the 200 mark. The reason I recommend using the 200 mark is because the resistance of the switch shouldn't be very high. Disconnect the wires from the switch. With the switch in the OFF position, take the positive meter probe (red) and put it to the prong of the switch where power goes in. It helps if you can fasten it there, somehow. Just make sure you have metal touching metal. Then take the negative meter probe (black) and put it to the prong where power comes out. It shouldn't matter which probe goes to which prong, honestly, since resistance isn't polarity-sensitive, but so it's not a big deal if you're not sure which is which.

With both probes connected and the switch OFF, the meter should say OL or OFL, meaning off-line. Power isn't getting through.

With the switch turned to ACC, the meter should show a number. I don't know how accurate your meter will be, because the number will probably be pretty small and I don't know how small a number that meter can measure. A buddy's borrowing my Sportster manual right now, but I can go grab that later and look up what the spec should be. As long as your meter shows something, though, you're good.

With the switch turned to IGN, the meter should again show a number. Probably the same number. I'll check the manual when I get a chance. If it shows off-line, then you've found your problem. Bad switch. Let us know your results and if the switch tests good, we'll go from there.

 

Battery has 12.6 volts. Cables are all tight. Dash lights barely visible when key is in ACC. Nothing when key in IGN position

 

You mean there's no power, or there's no reading on the meter?

 

OK, have fuel tank lifted up, and key switch hanging loose. It looks like it is wired directly into the harness. Do I need to cut harness open to expose where switch plugs in?

 

Service manual for my 2007 says you cut the wires close to the switch and splice in the new switch. After removing the maxi-fuse of course.

 

That's a shame. I'm surprised they didn't just use connectors. Yeah, to test the switch, it looks like you need to cut the wires, in which case you're splicing it back into place no matter what. The test will tell you whether you need to order a new switch. Test it as close to the switch as possible. If the switch tests OK, then you've probably got a damaged wire somewhere.

If anyone knows a way to test the switch without cutting the wires, please chime in.

 

I made a probe for my multimeter to check voltage without cutting wires. Took a standard blunt probe and sharpened it to a point like you'd find on a 12v test light. Just pierces the insulation. Should be able to check the hot wire and compare voltages on the ACC and IGN wires. Never used it on this particular switch but shouldn't be any different.

 

was thinking that myself, or maybe peel back just a little insulation.
Hope every one has a Happy Thanksgiving Day