2010 switched +12v?
#1
#4
By switched, I understand you to mean power that only appears after the bike is started, not through a toggle or rocker switch. Take it from the back of your cigarette lighter socket if you have one, otherwise as Shooter said use a multimeter. And be sure your taking power from the fused side.
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; 03-26-2015 at 10:46 PM.
#6
#7
Yep, you don't want to tap power off anything that has to do with your ECM, ignition, or gauges. For example, a class D stereo amp always has a high frequency switching power supply in its circuitry. Adding that into the wrong 12 volt bus could be disasterous if those high frequency pulses worked their way into your ECM or gauges via the power line. Same thing too if your 'addition' draws to much current and pulls down the power. Always best to take power directly from the battery, and if it needs to be switched automatically then do it from a relay wired to the cigarette plug.
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#8
Yep, you don't want to tap power off anything that has to do with your ECM, ignition, or gauges. For example, a class D stereo amp always has a high frequency switching power supply in its circuitry. Adding that into the wrong 12 volt bus could be disasterous if those high frequency pulses worked their way into your ECM or gauges via the power line. Same thing too if your 'addition' draws to much current and pulls down the power. Always best to take power directly from the battery, and if it needs to be switched automatically then do it from a relay wired to the cigarette plug.
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#10
Yes, the running lights would be a great place to take the relay's switching power from. Relays typically pull about 100 milliamps of current, or about 1/10th of an amp. It certainly won't load down your lighting circuitry, just make sure the relay's contacts are rated well above the maximum current your accessories will draw. Otherwise over time the relay contacts will pit and develop carbon buildup on them, adding resistance and dropping the power to your accessories.