Now I don't know about you but when I'm told something is "plug and play" I think "take out the old and plug in the new". Supposedly the conversion from regular bulbs to LED's on my 2012 Ultra Classic was PnP.

I'm no mechanic but I am comfortable with electronics, wiring and light wrench work. Recently the dealership where I bought my bike had an LED light demo and anything purchased during the demo netted 15% off.

I had already decided I wanted to do the signal lights all around. The headlight/auxiliary lights not so much. I rarely ride after dark and although the brightness and the pattern are impressive, $660 for the headlight alone is just not worth it in my mind.

So I order ambers for the front and reds for the rear - A personal preference. The instruction sheet for the fronts say "Installation procedures for the LED front turn signal lamps are the same as for OE lamps except the lamp wire terminals are inserted into the new socket housings from the kit". Could it be any simpler?

Replacing the lamps proved to be a project as you cannot get to the hex head screws easily (front or rear) with anything other than a small allan wrench. Add to that, a little loc-tite and it a 1/4 turn at a time (blindly on the rears) all the way. A real pain in the butt.

As I read on it says on "On 2006 FLHT models the grey/black wire leading from the auxiliary lamp must be removed from cavity 4 of each OE front turn signal lamp and installed in cavity 4 of the new socket housing." This becomes a problem. You can't cut the wire and how do you removed the pin without a pin extracting tool? Then if your lucky enough to get the pin out without damaging it, you can (1) try pulling it through the plastic tubing and risk damaging it or (2) cut the harness off the old signal lamps. I got the pins out using a very small flat blade screwdriver and working under the assumption I wasn't going to use the old ones again, I cut the harness off. I cable-tied the grey/black wire to the new harness and in the end, it was worth the extra effort. BE CAREFUL not to pinch the grey/black wire when tightening the front lamp housings.

I actually did the rears first thinking they would be more difficult. Other than the screw issue noted above, the directions made it very easy to get the wiring right the first time. The only delay was trying to find the tiny numbers on the plastic housings. Obviously the correct color wires have to go into the correct cavity of the housing. My eyesight isn't the best and it took a bright light and two pairs of glasses to finally find them.

In the end, the cost and the time it took to complete the project to my standards was well worth it. I am a huge fan of LED's for their small power draw, life span and intensity.

I also added the LED light to my airwing and the LED brake light so everything matches. Those two mods were truly plug and play and took a little over an hour. The signals took about 7 hours in all but I'm very particular about my wiring.

Hope this helps anyone considering this upgrade. If anyone has any questions or would like pics, drop me a note.

Now we ride. Be safe.

 

Its a great upgrade. I did Custom Dynamics LED's all the way around as soon as I got my ultra. Nice write up.

FYI Custom Dynamics are truly plug n play.

 

custom dynamics all the way
even my brake light strobe & load resister are plug & play

 

Larry, I'm having the same issue. I'm getting ready to put on a set of HD LED rear turn signals and I want to make sure I insert the correct wires in the correct cavities in the connectors. I have the kit, but I can't find any numbers identifying the connector cavities even with a magnifying glass (and my eyesight is good). Where will I find the numbers? If I hold the 2-pin (or the 3-pin) connector with the release button facing up and I'm looking at the back of the connector where the secondary lock is located and where I insert the pins, does pin #1 get inserted in the far right cavity or far left cavity? The HD instructions don't have a picture of the connectors with the cavities numbered.

 

Wow, wires in housing etc. Which LEDs are you using.

I used the Radiantz ones.
http://www.radiantz.com/index1.html?c16.html&1

No wiring changes. Either bullet or Flat lens. 1156/1157 plugs with pig tails to the LED plates. Simply remove the lens/bulb. Install the LED plug - like installing a bulb. Center the LED plate in the housing and replace lens. Amber fronts and red rears. I went with smoked lens.

Add a Load Eq and you are done.

I went with the Dog-eyes though. This did require wiring. Dog-eyes on the rear are 2 color. Outer ring is amber for turns and operate off the plug like normal turns. Then there are two wires. One to slice into the running light and the other is the brake. I routed these into the brake light housing and sliced into the wiring (crimped on connector, installed into housing and used spare female connect on the brake light housing.

No need for the BRT module. I love them on my RGU. Used these on all bikes so far.

 

I purchased plasma rods for my filler panels, I don't have any room on the side of the panel, how is this work?

 

If you remove the rear light bar from the fender those screws to the lights are easy to get to. They are on the RK.

 

Sorry I missed your post. If you look closely at what HD calls the secondary locking mechanism (its a little flap that hinges down to lock the wires in place) you should see very small numbers on that flap that correspond to the first and last cavity. I'll describe it as best I can - If you look at the end of the housing the wires go into with the secondary locking mechanism at the top, cavity 1 should be the one on the one on the left. If you aren't sure don't plug it in. I say that only because it's a bitch to get the pins back out without the pin extracting tool.

 

I would think that anyone that is"comfortable with electronics, wiring and light wrench work"should have no trouble with this mod.

 

Thanks Larry! This worked like a charm. I installed the lights this weekend.