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2018 Softail LED signal lamps 67800640 and B2141

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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 08:03 AM
  #1  
reggman2's Avatar
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Default 2018 Softail LED signal lamps 67800640 and B2141

Posting this to help someone else that may fall into this land mine. Granted this was on a FXBRS it probably applies to all Softails. Set out this weekend to change out turn signal and brake lamps to LED with 67800639 and 67800640. Per the instructions they indicate to clip the wires as close to the terminals as possible to leave as much wire as possible. True. What they don't tell you is you will be discarding everything except the metal shell housing on the bike. Meaning you will toss the spring, the lamp receptacle, the lamp housing and the inner rubber gasket. With that in mind use any means necessary to clip those wires at the ends. Once you have the metal shell with just three wires showing use a plastic tool and push the grommet out through the back of the shell along with the wires. Cut 1/4" of insulation off the ends then feed them back through the hole and reinsert the grommet. Also the new parts come with a cable that has about 7" or so of new wire and a plug with a heat shrink shield. Clip the wires down to the length of the shrink then toss the shrink and excess wire. Once again clip the new wire ends to 1/4". Join the appropriate colors with the plastic butt-splice connectors they provide. Insert plug into LED lamps and insert as described into the shell. I thought that was going to be the hard part.

After installing the front LED lamps (67800639) I went ahead and installed the main fuse and programmed the lamps per the instructions. (cycling hazzards for 12 cycles - turn off - hold trip button and cycle power on and then spelunking the menus for the BCM - body control module - and holding to clear the BCM) power off. Life was great. No codes and front sigs working great. Moved onto the rear brake LEDs (67800640) and followed pretty much the same procedure, but removed fender rails to free up cable enough to work on it better. Put everything somewhat back together and tested lamps. Everything worked so went onto program and clear the BCM. No matter what I did and how many cycles I went through on the BCM I would always end up with the same result. The turn signals (either side) would do one normal blink in the digital readout and then do the fast signal flash even though the signals themselves were blinking normally. Cycling through the BCM codes ended in the same result everytime. Codes in sequence were B2141, B2146, B2151 and B2156 which basically equate to (Left Front, RF, LR, RR) each signal showing an open. I broke out the multimeter to test for opens and shorts with everything showing fine. Resistance was in tolerance on each strand. Since I don't actually own the electrical diagnostics manual I did a little searching on the web and found one for a 2013. https://www.scribd.com/doc/229588712...al-Diagnostics In section 5.5 it made a reference to simply cycling the hazzards for 10 cycles - power off - hazzards for 10 more cycles and then clear codes. Ding ding ding. We have a winner! Codes cleared and and stayed cleared. Although the 12 cycle they mention in the instructions programs the BCM after initial install, apparently if that doesn't take the 10/10 method does the job. Wish that would have made it's way into the instruction sheet. Hope this saves someone else 4 hours on a Saturday.
 

Last edited by reggman2; Oct 22, 2017 at 08:09 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 02:59 AM
  #2  
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Stephen Woodruffe
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You think no one I said listening.. great advice, you just saved me hours, many thanks.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 12:49 AM
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Nice work man !
 
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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 04:16 PM
  #4  
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Big hit Money
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From: Toronto Canada
Default Curious...

Originally Posted by reggman2
Posting this to help someone else that may fall into this land mine. Granted this was on a FXBRS it probably applies to all Softails. Set out this weekend to change out turn signal and brake lamps to LED with 67800639 and 67800640. Per the instructions they indicate to clip the wires as close to the terminals as possible to leave as much wire as possible. True. What they don't tell you is you will be discarding everything except the metal shell housing on the bike. Meaning you will toss the spring, the lamp receptacle, the lamp housing and the inner rubber gasket. With that in mind use any means necessary to clip those wires at the ends. Once you have the metal shell with just three wires showing use a plastic tool and push the grommet out through the back of the shell along with the wires. Cut 1/4" of insulation off the ends then feed them back through the hole and reinsert the grommet. Also the new parts come with a cable that has about 7" or so of new wire and a plug with a heat shrink shield. Clip the wires down to the length of the shrink then toss the shrink and excess wire. Once again clip the new wire ends to 1/4". Join the appropriate colors with the plastic butt-splice connectors they provide. Insert plug into LED lamps and insert as described into the shell. I thought that was going to be the hard part.

After installing the front LED lamps (67800639) I went ahead and installed the main fuse and programmed the lamps per the instructions. (cycling hazzards for 12 cycles - turn off - hold trip button and cycle power on and then spelunking the menus for the BCM - body control module - and holding to clear the BCM) power off. Life was great. No codes and front sigs working great. Moved onto the rear brake LEDs (67800640) and followed pretty much the same procedure, but removed fender rails to free up cable enough to work on it better. Put everything somewhat back together and tested lamps. Everything worked so went onto program and clear the BCM. No matter what I did and how many cycles I went through on the BCM I would always end up with the same result. The turn signals (either side) would do one normal blink in the digital readout and then do the fast signal flash even though the signals themselves were blinking normally. Cycling through the BCM codes ended in the same result everytime. Codes in sequence were B2141, B2146, B2151 and B2156 which basically equate to (Left Front, RF, LR, RR) each signal showing an open. I broke out the multimeter to test for opens and shorts with everything showing fine. Resistance was in tolerance on each strand. Since I don't actually own the electrical diagnostics manual I did a little searching on the web and found one for a 2013. https://www.scribd.com/doc/229588712...al-Diagnostics In section 5.5 it made a reference to simply cycling the hazzards for 10 cycles - power off - hazzards for 10 more cycles and then clear codes. Ding ding ding. We have a winner! Codes cleared and and stayed cleared. Although the 12 cycle they mention in the instructions programs the BCM after initial install, apparently if that doesn't take the 10/10 method does the job. Wish that would have made it's way into the instruction sheet. Hope this saves someone else 4 hours on a Saturday.
When you said "cycle the hazards" did that mean to turn bike on, turn on hazards, turn bike off.... Do that 10 times? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 04:51 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Big hit Money
When you said "cycle the hazards" did that mean to turn bike on, turn on hazards, turn bike off.... Do that 10 times? Thanks in advance.
bike on. Cycle 10 times. Bike off
 
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