Progressivve 444 rear shocks
I recently bought Progressive 444 shocks which too this time seem ok. I asked the mfg too what line I should use for my weight at 220 lb. They could not advise what line to adjust too. I am using the first line which seems Ok for normal riding one up. However, hitting a few deeper bumps seemed to shock my back. Anyone have info for which line for someone of my weight. If riding two up, how many lines are recommended.
The shocks should be adjusted to the correct "sag". If you have an Ultra Limited and you went with the stock length 13" Progressive 444s you have about 3" of total suspension travel available. When you sit in the saddle your shocks should compress about 1/3 of that 3" travel i.e. 1" of sag. Have someone measure the shock length from top bolt to bottom bolt after you sit on the bike and compare that to the unladen bike. If you want a bit firmer ride you can aim for 3/4" of sag but any less than that may cause your rear suspension to top out too often.
You might want to go with the 3/4" sag and then see how that works with a passenger on board. It might be a good compromise that will allow you to not have to adjust every time you carry a passenger.
With only 3" of total suspension travel (Only 2" on the Street Glides and Low models) there's not much stroke available to absorb the larger hits (only about 2" if your sag is already set to 1"). The variable valving in the 444s tries to compensate for the hard bumps but asking it (or any shock for that matter) to do that with 2" of travel is asking a lot.
You might want to go with the 3/4" sag and then see how that works with a passenger on board. It might be a good compromise that will allow you to not have to adjust every time you carry a passenger.
With only 3" of total suspension travel (Only 2" on the Street Glides and Low models) there's not much stroke available to absorb the larger hits (only about 2" if your sag is already set to 1"). The variable valving in the 444s tries to compensate for the hard bumps but asking it (or any shock for that matter) to do that with 2" of travel is asking a lot.
You probably want the HD springs. The standard rate springs are just too soft for a rider of your weight. I weigh 210 and I went to the HD springs after having the regular springs. One would think the HD springs would be too firm after you talk to a Progressive rep who insists that the HDs are for much higher rider weight or if you pull a trailer. Not the case imo. With the standard springs you have to dial in too much preload to get the right sag. In your case I'll bet it's almost all the way cranked down. In my case it was all the way less 1.5 turns on the bare bike. If I added a tourpack and passenger I had to crank it all the way and that was still not enough.
With the HD springs I have it at 5 turns from top, which leaves plenty of uncompressed progressive rate spring, which makes for that smooth ride you want.
You also need the Progressive spring tool. It's essential for taking the shocks apart to clean them, which is again, essential. Those threads can easily bind up.
With the HD springs I have it at 5 turns from top, which leaves plenty of uncompressed progressive rate spring, which makes for that smooth ride you want.
You also need the Progressive spring tool. It's essential for taking the shocks apart to clean them, which is again, essential. Those threads can easily bind up.
You probably want the HD springs. The standard rate springs are just too soft for a rider of your weight. I weigh 210 and I went to the HD springs after having the regular springs. One would think the HD springs would be too firm after you talk to a Progressive rep who insists that the HDs are for much higher rider weight or if you pull a trailer. Not the case imo. With the standard springs you have to dial in too much preload to get the right sag. In your case I'll bet it's almost all the way cranked down. In my case it was all the way less 1.5 turns on the bare bike. If I added a tourpack and passenger I had to crank it all the way and that was still not enough.
With the HD springs I have it at 5 turns from top, which leaves plenty of uncompressed progressive rate spring, which makes for that smooth ride you want.
You also need the Progressive spring tool. It's essential for taking the shocks apart to clean them, which is again, essential. Those threads can easily bind up.
With the HD springs I have it at 5 turns from top, which leaves plenty of uncompressed progressive rate spring, which makes for that smooth ride you want.
You also need the Progressive spring tool. It's essential for taking the shocks apart to clean them, which is again, essential. Those threads can easily bind up.
Thanks, that's the length I was considering also. I've got those and the monotube fork kit in my cart at Amazon and I'm probably going to pull the trigger soon. I've been all over the board with how to set the suspension up on my bike. The Progressive front and rear combo seems to be the best bang for the buck. Given my financial situation I simply can't justify the full Ohlins kit or even the Legend setup even though they probably are superior.
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Thanks, that's the length I was considering also. I've got those and the monotube fork kit in my cart at Amazon and I'm probably going to pull the trigger soon. I've been all over the board with how to set the suspension up on my bike. The Progressive front and rear combo seems to be the best bang for the buck. Given my financial situation I simply can't justify the full Ohlins kit or even the Legend setup even though they probably are superior.
On the 13.5s - just be forewarned that you will need to "adjust" your slip ons to clear the axle hardware. I had to put a significant dent in both my Supertrapp Stouts. But you don't see that when they are installed so I really don't care.
Well if it makes you feel better, I sold my Ohlins off to buy the Progressives and I much prefer them. I won't weigh in on my thoughts on why other than to say Progressive has been building shocks for Harleys for a long time. I think they understand the market and it's needs very well.
On the 13.5s - just be forewarned that you will need to "adjust" your slip ons to clear the axle hardware. I had to put a significant dent in both my Supertrapp Stouts. But you don't see that when they are installed so I really don't care.
On the 13.5s - just be forewarned that you will need to "adjust" your slip ons to clear the axle hardware. I had to put a significant dent in both my Supertrapp Stouts. But you don't see that when they are installed so I really don't care.
I still have the stock mufflers on my bike so hopefully they'll miss. If not I own a ball peen hammer and I know how to use it.






