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I have a 2016 Ultra Limited and it, frankly, seems a little gutless. Had a 2010 RKC that I did the 103" upgrade with 255 cams and that bike seemed to have quite a bit more power. On the Limited, I have de-catted header, heavy breather, V/H hi-output mufflers, and the FP3. I've run auto-tune several times under different conditions and reflashed. Just curious if this is normal for the heavier bike or if I need different cams ar something. Appreciate any input.
I have found that my 2014 Ultra 103 - has plenty of guys. I cruise- don't race.
Ya, I just noticed that, on windy days( which we have plenty of in Wyoming, lol!) the bike struggles a touch in 6th gear at maintaining speed. On the RK, even 2-up, I always had more throttle I could roll on to pass. May be just the weight of the bike.
I have de-catted header, heavy breather, V/H hi-output mufflers, and the FP3. I've run auto-tune several times
Albatross if by "de-catted header" you mean a factory header that's had the cat removed....Then you are probably not aware V&H recommends not using the Auto Tune feature. Per V&H the Auto Tune feature is unreliable at best when the factory header pipe has been de-catted due to cross talk issues. Their recommendation is to use any aftermarket header pipe that properly immerses the O2 sensors into the exhaust flow. And to only use the canned maps if you want to keep running a de-catted factory header pipe.
Get rid of the High Outputs, get a good 2-1-2 header and better suited cans. They rob low end torque. At least that's my experience and the dyno proved it as well. My Ultra is not stock, 10:5 compression, ported heads, and TW 777 cam and they lost me a good amount of low end torque......in the area that most of us ride. And this was with the Jackpot 2-1-2 header. Yes they sound good and look good, but they are really better on a bigger inch motor.
Albatross if by "de-catted header" you mean a factory header that's had the cat removed....Then you are probably not aware V&H recommends not using the Auto Tune feature. Per V&H the Auto Tune feature is unreliable at best when the factory header pipe has been de-catted due to cross talk issues. Their recommendation is to use any aftermarket header pipe that properly immerses the O2 sensors into the exhaust flow. And to only use the canned maps if you want to keep running a de-catted factory header pipe.
Good luck. Mike
Yeah, it's a factory header with the cat removed. I know they don't recommend it because of the sensor issue but the autu-tune did improve performance. I should probably break down and replace the header and see what I get. Thanks for all the input you guys!
Yeah, it's a factory header with the cat removed. I know they don't recommend it because of the sensor issue but the autu-tune did improve performance. I should probably break down and replace the header and see what I get. Thanks for all the input you guys!
One of the things I was told by V&H when I inquired about the auto tune and de-catted factory headers for my bike was the Tune won't hold..it will degrade over time. One cheap solution would be to move one of the bungs up. I've also heard of some guys welding plenums into their header pipes to isolate the O2 sensors.
On the other hand I also heard the factory header pipe is a quite restrictive POS ;0)