I started the bike earlier today to go riding with my wife. It turned over kind of slowly, but it started. However, it ran poorly and seemed to be in limp mode. Very little throttle response and it sounded like it was running in one cylinder. Check engine light on, ABS light on, TC light flashing. I let it run for a minute or so, no change. I shut it down and restarted, no change. I shut it back down again and checked codes. Several were present, but all were showing as historic codes. Cleared all codes and fired it up again. It ran perfectly. Went for a nice ride with no issues the rest of the day.

I'm guessing the battery was just a bit low form sitting since last Sunday when I last rode it and a lower than normal voltage freaked it out a bit. Running it for a minute or 2 put some charge in it and after I cleared the codes, it was happy again. Does this make sense, or should I be worried about other issues?

 

Electrical glitches can cause numerous, often unrelated, codes....

The fact that yours are now historic, seems to support your guess....

The other culprit could be a loose, or corroded ground cable....


Ny time I encounter an electrical issue, I always load test the battery, and then check both positive & negative battery cables (at both ends) for good, clean, and tight connections...

That way, if any of the codes reappear, with a tested, solid 12V source, the codes have more credibility....

Good luck and keep us posted if you find any other issues...

 

Good tip about checking the battery connection. I will do so in the morning. Thank you.

 

I have had that at least three times on a 23 FLHP. I have checked and cleaned plugs and connections, including the ECM and BCM. Each time, I find the battery cables snug, but not as tight as I left them. The time before last, I cleaned the battery posts and cable ends and used blue loctite on the bolts. The most recent time, I again cleaned the posts and cable ends and tried red loctite. That was less than 2 weeks ago, the repeats usually are about a month in between. I did a voltage drop test on both battery cables between connections, not just the cables themselves, no drop at all.

When this happens on the road, I pull off the road, shut off the engine, then try to clear the codes. I have been unsuccessful on the first try every time. The throttle response returns to normal if I pull the big fuse, and re-install it. The engine light stays on until I get home and cycle through the codes, and write them down. Then the codes clear normally. I guess I am stuck repeating the process until I get a hard fail, or stumble on the right connector and clean it. The battery is a Yuasa GYZ32??? and checks good several ways. Resting voltage above 13, drop during start stays above 10, checks healthy with a Harbor Freight load and internal resistance tester. It is approaching 2 years old.

 

Try using a lock washer under the battery terminal screw.

 

Thanks, I should have mentioned I have been through both split and star lock washers also, both singly under the bolt head only, and in pairs, under the cable end and the battery terminal combined with under the bolt head. Presently using new bolts, as the supplied ones kept "relaxing". The last option I can think of is self locking nuts inside the terminals. The battery comes with threaded brass inserts that SHOULD be more than adequate. It s possible the "relaxing" bolts are not the problem, as I have never had repeated limp mode before.

To be even more complete, I have cleaned the tabs on the big fuse AND the contacts in the fuse box that hold it, cleaned the twist grip sensor plugs by the steering head,the throttle body plug, the MAF plug. The front and rear turn signal bulbs have been replaced with LEDs, my electrical system won't do the "initialization" for the LEDs so I have the hyperflash indcator lights but the signals flash normally, and I always have the turn signal bulb open codes, but I don't believe they would cause the limp mode.

I also get ABS interrupted power codes each time, and have cleaned the plugs and sockets on ABS module. Unless someone KNOWS the turn signals need the load resistors to stop the limp mode malfunctions, I am not inclined to add them.

 

Star washer is better bite.

 

I pulled the seat and left side cover this morning. It was very dusty under both locations. I blew both areas out with compressed air, not too close or with too much pressure. I checked the battery terminals and both were tight. Followed the ground wire and I think I found the main frame ground and it was tight. I finished cleaning gently and replaced the seat and side cover. The bike fired right up and ran normally. I think I just need to use the battery tender more often. I used to be able to let it sit for a week and have no issues, I guess my battery is just getting a little old (3 years). I think it will be fine for a while yet if I use the tender during the week.

 

You could be right, but it wouldn't hurt to actually check the battery... a load test, not just voltage..

Depending on geography and use cycles, it is not rare to have a battery need replacement in 3 years or less. Few PowerSports battery manufacturers have a 3 year warranty. Most are 2 years or less...

It's always easier to change a battery in your garage than on the side of the road or a parking lot.....

If you don't have a battery tester or load tester, here is a cheap substitute....

Fully charge the battery, then take it off the charger/tender for about 3 hours before testing. That ensures the surface charge dissipates...

Using a volt meter at the battery terminals:

Measure & record the battery voltage.

Then turn on the ignition switch, give about 10 seconds, and measure & record the battery voltage.

With a helper if necessary, holding or attaching the volt meter ends to the battery terminals, watch the voltage as you start the bike.

There will be a short duration drop in voltage as the starter first engages. If the drop goes below 10V, you probably have a weak battery. If that voltage drop goes below 9.5V, many will consider that means it's time to get a new battery... Below 9.0V. most will agree it's new battery time..

In any case, good luck with your bike...

 

Interesting test. I have a digital volt meter and I wonder if it would read fast enough to catch the drop at initial start. In any case I can try it next weekend and see if it reads fast enough. Also, the bike ran great all day today, no issues at all.