Overly sensitive throttle-by-wire
#11
I know that with the PV there is a switch for the torque based ETC, as well as throttle blade adjustments. I have experimented with it both ways. Torque based, seems to be more reactive , jerky/twitchy. Turning off the torque based etc definitely is smoother. I also made a slight blade adjustment around idle.
#12
There are, they are tuners such as Dynojet, V&H Fuel packs etc. as well as any tuning device that can flash or amend the ECU program or amend the the throttle tables.
Basically the H-D fly-by wire throttle in this case operates by low voltage electrical signals, with two basically mechanical electrical devices, controlled by the ECU and pre-programmed tables of how it is to operate.
The throttle sensor is basically a variable resistor controlled by being turned by the twist grips which alters the electrical signal to the ECU, the ECU reads this signal and uses the pre-programed tables as well as considering other various inputs and then sends out an electrical signal to infect a a mechanical stepping motor which then physically moves the throttle blade.
The main control of the throttle that can be easily changed is those installed throttle tables, this will effect how and when and what speed in response the actual throttle blade in the throttle body moves in relation to the position and speed the twist grip is turned.
In the case of the V&H Fuel Pack 3 they gave the option of a simplified adjustment of the throttle settings to preset tables in various stages form an aggressive throttle response, such as Race to Custom with Standard and Standard Plus being the nearest to stock tables and operation, you can also read and amend these tables individually cell, by cell giving the capability of adjusting very precise areas and parameters, this is how you may be able to in effect 'tune out' an issue.
The earlier M8 Tourers there was a known issue of problems with the throttle sensor not responding correctly.
Basically the H-D fly-by wire throttle in this case operates by low voltage electrical signals, with two basically mechanical electrical devices, controlled by the ECU and pre-programmed tables of how it is to operate.
The throttle sensor is basically a variable resistor controlled by being turned by the twist grips which alters the electrical signal to the ECU, the ECU reads this signal and uses the pre-programed tables as well as considering other various inputs and then sends out an electrical signal to infect a a mechanical stepping motor which then physically moves the throttle blade.
The main control of the throttle that can be easily changed is those installed throttle tables, this will effect how and when and what speed in response the actual throttle blade in the throttle body moves in relation to the position and speed the twist grip is turned.
In the case of the V&H Fuel Pack 3 they gave the option of a simplified adjustment of the throttle settings to preset tables in various stages form an aggressive throttle response, such as Race to Custom with Standard and Standard Plus being the nearest to stock tables and operation, you can also read and amend these tables individually cell, by cell giving the capability of adjusting very precise areas and parameters, this is how you may be able to in effect 'tune out' an issue.
The earlier M8 Tourers there was a known issue of problems with the throttle sensor not responding correctly.
#13
You'd think by now engine programmers would have come up with a good, average response gain. Instead, motorcycles are over-gained twitchy, and trucks are under-gained hesitant (hence the proliferation of throttle tuners for truck ecms).
Seeing all the comments about twitchy Harley's leads me to think they come off the floor over-gained, i.e., it's not loose connectors or something else. Anyone know of aftermarket throttle gain ecm apps?
Seeing all the comments about twitchy Harley's leads me to think they come off the floor over-gained, i.e., it's not loose connectors or something else. Anyone know of aftermarket throttle gain ecm apps?
#14
#15
I had a BMW K1600B that had 3 modes. Rain, Normal & Dynamic. I never took it out of Dynamic. Not even while riding in the rain. Maybe other people mess with the various modes, but to me they are just a sales gimic. Don't get me wrong, there was a definite difference in the way the bike rode with different modes, but I never saw the need to take it out of the Dynamic mode.
Zach
Zach
#16
#17
I had this issue with a stock 2018 M8 Heritage Classic. I found it was caused by the throttle handgrip being too sloppy, Solved it by loosening the brake housing and controls and moved them slightly inboard, but still having enough clearance so that the throttle could turn freely back to a fully closed position.
Easy to check, if not this, I don't know. Good luck
brian
Easy to check, if not this, I don't know. Good luck
brian
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