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Replaced the oil pan I punched a hole in. A much easier job that I expected, save 1 bolt.
As you can see, it’s a tight fit, with that frame “strap” so close to the pan. This concerned me with regards to actually getting the pan out.
Turns out, it not an issue at all. Pull the bolts, tap the pan loose, and slide it out to the rear:
There is nothing hanging down into the pan which could block getting it out. In fact it’s an oddly empty cavity above the pan:
All of the pan bolts were easy to get to, save two. These two on the left were close to the frame, and were a little difficult to get to. Particularly the rear one. This one is partially obstructed by the welding on the frame. These are the two:
The factory service manual says to use Hylomar on the gasket. Good stuff, Hylomar. But it wasn’t used on the original gasket, that was installed dry. Looking at the new gasket, I can see why, it’s got a soft textured surface which will seal very well on its own. So I also went dry. The gasket:
Cleaned everything up, laid the gasket on the pan, and slid it up in there. Easy peasy, with a little fiddling to keep and get the gasket aligned. Just use a light touch and it’s easily done. Finger install the bolts, then torque them.
This was the only area I ran Into trouble. The new bolts have a larger flange. It made fitting them into those two holes on the left difficult. In fact I used a smaller original bolt on the rear one, as I couldn’t fit it in because of the frame welds. So 9 new, larger flanged bolts and one older type bolt. It was a fun fiddly job keeping that one bolt from cross threading. The new vs old bolts:
Job done! All told, about 3-hours of leisurely working to do the job.
One surprise find, holes in the frame. Probably drain holes, but they would also allow water in. I chose to do nothing with them, other than to note them. There is one on each side.
Oil pan baffle secured to the bottom of the pan makes the R/R easy. Different story on the early pans with baffle springs; R/R will have you speaking in tongues removing and reinstalling.
21919242[/url]]Oil pan baffle secured to the bottom of the pan makes the R/R easy. Different story on the early pans with baffle springs; R/R will have you speaking in tongues removing and reinstalling.
I was really suspicious that something was going to be hanging down and would make the job…entertaining.
Originally Posted by natural gasser;[url=tel:21919289
21919289[/url]]I really like Hylomar, don't think it would have hurt, only helped.
Mmmhmm, though getting it slid into that tight space would have become more difficult. But, using some dental floss to tie the gasket to the pan would have worked.
worse case scenario, it leaks and I replace the gasket. So far, no leaks. But that’s only driving it while on the lift.
I know you’re going to hate to hear this, but those newer bolts with the wider flange are for the new style oil pan. They have a larger spot for the bolt. You’re technically not supposed to use those bolts on the original style pan.
other than that I’m glad it’s an easy swap. I was wondering this a few days ago looking at my bike on the hoist.
No problem, I got the newer style oil pan. Comparing it to my original pan, they seem identical to my eyeballs. Not sure the original pan wasn't the newer style as well, for both had large machined surfaces for the newer, wider flanged, bolts.
Granted, I have not researched this, but given the type of riding you appear to do,
I'm just wondering if there is an aftermarket "skid plate" (for lack of a better term)
that you could add to protect the pan from another rock impact ?